DIY Stands Template and Calculator

The tempate image issue has been fixed.

The tempate image issue has been fixed.

I would like to thank Geo for fixing the broken image link in the original post as well as the quote at the beginning of this thread. Hopefully it will be another 4+ years before it becomes an issue again.

RocketEngineer
 
bruce 1 said:
What wood is recommended for the frame?
Click to expand...

Pine 2 by 4, 6, 8 construction grade lumber, actually a mix of spruce, pine, and fir (SPF you might see marked on them) which are very similar trees once turned into boards. Cherry pick through the boards yourself, sighting down each end of the board for straightness.... the absence of bow, twist, warp, and bend. Check for grain that runs excessively off the board (they can break in two along the grain), missing chunks at critical spots you won't be cutting off, excessive knots, and for bleeding sap. If the boards feel cold to the touch even though they have been inside a while, they probably have excess moisture in them. Some days I walk away without a board. Once in forty plus years I bought every 2 by 4 they had.
 
Stand refinish??

Stand refinish??

I have a 150 bow-front and a custom stand it is made of 3/4 plywood with a natural colored veneer covering the plywood - then it has s thin coat of clear.

MY PROBLEM is my wife wants a darker oak and the peolple I have talked to state it would be virtually impossibe to sand and refinish it sine the corners would be a problem ??

IS there a stripper chemical that anyone can recommend since I have 50 lbs of live rock in tubs and 130 lbs out in the yard curing I really want to put some water in this tank ( my first big Tank)


I am not trying to hijack this thread... ALL THE WOODWORKING EXPERTS seem to be posting here

Just getting discouraged and want this project up and running ASAP I plan on the natural cycling 3 to 4 months......
 
ddavefish said:
I have a 150 bow-front and a custom stand it is made of 3/4 plywood with a natural colored veneer covering the plywood - then it has s thin coat of clear.

MY PROBLEM is my wife wants a darker oak and the peolple I have talked to state it would be virtually impossibe to sand and refinish it sine the corners would be a problem ??

IS there a stripper chemical that anyone can recommend since I have 50 lbs of live rock in tubs and 130 lbs out in the yard curing I really want to put some water in this tank ( my first big Tank)


I am not trying to hijack this thread... ALL THE WOODWORKING EXPERTS seem to be posting here

Just getting discouraged and want this project up and running ASAP I plan on the natural cycling 3 to 4 months......
Click to expand...

They are right. Not only would there be key areas that would not take a seal, you could sand down to the glue and reach whitish areas that take no stain at all.

However if you are desperate to do this, you can cover sealed wood with a solid color wood stain. Really desperate. It's intended for decks, fences, and exterior siding. I am pretty sure with two of you, at least one of you will be sane enough not like the look. To me it just looks like brown paint. A little of the grain shows through but it is very uniform unlike real stain. Test it on a hidden area and see if your wife likes the brown paint. http://www.behr.com Behr has it but the URL direct to the product would be bigger than this post.

Or glue on sheets of Formica. http://www.bevel-edge.com/home/bev/smartlist_81/formica__laminate__4_x_8_sheets.html

I actually saw this once that looked good. Unfortunately I've seen it more often than that once.
 
People restore antiques all the time. They use a stripper and then refinish. It is a nasty job, but I expect a search for antique refinishing would find some good links. That is if it is real wood.
 
TheFishMan65 said:
People restore antiques all the time. They use a stripper and then refinish. It is a nasty job, but I expect a search for antique refinishing would find some good links. That is if it is real wood.
Click to expand...

That is well worth trying. More time and work than painting it brown, but the result could be worth it. Test a hidden spot that won't show. It was said that it's a veneer. Stripping is a nasty job, but not as bad as some of the ones on the similarly named TV show. Here's a link to a method that works on real veneers. There are plastic veneers that could melt and bubble, so don't forget to test that hidden spot first.
 
Refinishing

Refinishing

one of my friends paints murals on rv and motorcycles ect..
HE
says he can tint some clear and spray the whole thing!!,,

Problem is there is no place where it can be tested the back is unfinished ect


The decision on whichway to go?......:celeb3:
 
ddavefish said:
one of my friends paints murals on rv and motorcycles ect..
HE
says he can tint some clear and spray the whole thing!!,,

Problem is there is no place where it can be tested the back is unfinished ect


The decision on whichway to go?......:celeb3:
Click to expand...

I think a mural would look great. It could be worlds better than some of those tanks they did on the TANKED TV show. I mean the TV show TANKED. Oh well no matter how I say it comes out sounding wrong. I never saw it past Episode 6 any way.
 
You mean I missed all 6 and there are no ore. How will I ever survive.

He might be able to spray a natural wood design if that is what you are looking for. He could paint a scrap and you can see if you like it.
Can you stain a scrap 2x4 or something the same color as the stand and then have your friend clear coat with tint that. It should be close to what the tank will look like.
 
I know everybody recommends 2xs for building a stand but here is my issue. I am planing on building a stand for a 20 gal that should accommodate 2 10gal underneath it. Obviously the stand will be wider than the 20l I am planing this for but that doesn't bother me at all.
Here is my question: I can get my hands on some scrap pieces of wood that measure 1 1/16'' x 5 1/8''. Very weird size because it's not really a 2x6.
Anyway these pieces I can get for free and I was wondering if you guys think they will be strong enough to support roughly 40 gal of water plus equipment?
I plan on using the stand template located in this thread and skinning the stand with at least 1/2'' plywood.
 
I can run the numbers tomorrow. For legs it will be fine. So really you are only supporting 20 gallons (if built right). I am 90% it will be fine.
 
Wow that was quick lol. Thank you fishman. You got it right a 20gal long would sit on top of the stand and I want to have room for 2 10 gal QT sitting side by side inside the stand on the bottom of it.
 
TheFishMan65 said:
I was going to send you to post 85, but the picture is gone. Geo, Rocket any chance of getting that one back?
Click to expand...


I looked and that post isn't even yours. I'm guessing you rearranged your photobucket. If you link me to the right post and send the link for the pictures I can reinsert them for you.
 
dc said:
I looked and that post isn't even yours. I'm guessing you rearranged your photobucket. If you link me to the right post and send the link for the pictures I can reinsert them for you.
Click to expand...

The post in question is #85 in the original thread. It shows a stand that would hold multiple tanks. Both that image and the one on the original post were stored on RC in my image gallery. No idea why the image links have broken all of a sudden. I will be reposting an improved version of the image later today.

RocketEngineer
 
debi,
Sorry I should have specified the original thread. And that one isn't mine either :) Thanks for the help

RocketEngineer,
Improved? I look forward to seeing it.

kriv,
I am guessing you don't need it wider than 4 feet. Your good probably for much wider if needed.
 
As requested, here is a general idea for a double stand where all 3 tanks have the same footprint:

StandTemplateDouble.jpg


One alternative would be to keep the screw strips on the inside if the lower tanks are smaller than the upper.
 
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