Enthusiastic
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How much wide should be the stand to be stable?
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
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Rhodophyta
New member
When going tall, go for broke. Take the verticals all the way to the ceiling and put a plywood lid on top bigger than the stand, so that if the stand were to sway, the verticals would not poke through the ceiling.
Dont know. The tallest freestanding stand Ive had signed off by the engineering firm I use was 30" for a similar dimension tank and that was on a concrete slab. My guess would be at least a full tank depth deeper at 47" tall.
Don
Enthusiastic
New member
Thanks for advices. I think it's better just to screw it to the wall. I guess stand wider than tank will not be much beutiful? IMO.
If size 47 what sizes wood support to use for the stand's verticals considering to put one central support on front frame for easy acces to the sump or 2 is mandatory? And what kind of wood is suitable? Maybe larch?
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If size 47 what sizes wood support to use for the stand's verticals considering to put one central support on front frame for easy acces to the sump or 2 is mandatory? And what kind of wood is suitable? Maybe larch?
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Rhodophyta
New member
Hollow cinder blocks and top with plywood. One of the first saltwater wholesalers in this area used cinder blocks for all his tanks, adding more the same design as he expanded with the growing interest in inverts and coral. After 30+ years when he retired and moved to Florida, even the oldest tanks and stands were still in operation. I helped him move out the tanks and got to keep one, a 90 gallon tank that has been running here for the past ten years since he retired and still looks good (great seams) although it was built in 1972. Not on cinder blocks, although early on I used to have them. Cheap quick solid.
TheFishMan65
New member
Enthusiastic,
The leg requirement don't change on height. One leg in the middle with everything being 2x4s will work. As you mentioned just anchor it to the wall.
The leg requirement don't change on height. One leg in the middle with everything being 2x4s will work. As you mentioned just anchor it to the wall.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
+1 on this. I can't tell you how many LFSs I have been to that have rack systems made out of 2x4s that just span the front/back of the tanks. I've even seen 55g tanks just supported by the ends. I believe TheFishMan65 posted that AGA recommends that tank up to the 24x48 120g can be supported by the corners only, making sure that at least 6" along each corner is fully supported.
I currently have a 40B set up as a holding tank for some frags while I'm moving everything from one tank to the other, and I have it set up on the floor with a 2x4 flat on the floor along each short end like this
Though I think I just realized that you can't see the 2x4s. But you get the idea.
Enthusiastic
New member
I am grateful for a magnificent work you've done in helping people like me.
Sorry for disturbing again. I have been reading a lot last days and got different answers so just want to make sure if my stand is 48"(120cm) tall while the tank size is 214*50*70cm (l*w*h) will it need just 2*8 size for top frame and legs with center support leg? Other particles just 2*4 parts.
And to be stable I should anchor it to the wall?
Thanks
This stand at the photo is 48" tall with 210g tank on it.
Sorry for disturbing again. I have been reading a lot last days and got different answers so just want to make sure if my stand is 48"(120cm) tall while the tank size is 214*50*70cm (l*w*h) will it need just 2*8 size for top frame and legs with center support leg? Other particles just 2*4 parts.
And to be stable I should anchor it to the wall?
Thanks
This stand at the photo is 48" tall with 210g tank on it.
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TheFishMan65
New member
Scott,
I would not recommend that design. You want the legs directly under the tank (usually the corners). You are holding the tank up with screws and glue not wood.
I would not recommend that design. You want the legs directly under the tank (usually the corners). You are holding the tank up with screws and glue not wood.
TheFishMan65
New member
Enthusiastic,
A 210 8 foot tank can get away with 2x6 for the top rail if there is a center leg both front and back.
A 210 8 foot tank can get away with 2x6 for the top rail if there is a center leg both front and back.
It would be just fine as long as you did the joinery on the inner frame properly and skinned the top with 3/4" plywood glued evenly to the entire top frame.
Don
TheFishMan65
New member
Scott,
Maybe Don knows something I don't (or I missed it). But I don't see a reference to a tank size. Is this a 90 or 225? I see you have posted about both sizes recently in other thread. I don't think either of those would work with 1x3s.
Maybe Don knows something I don't (or I missed it). But I don't see a reference to a tank size. Is this a 90 or 225? I see you have posted about both sizes recently in other thread. I don't think either of those would work with 1x3s.
The ply glued to the top frame would act sort of like a torsion box. Personally Id just use 1x3 doubled up strips of plywood for the inner frame. I'd attatch the inner frame to the outer frame with a floating tenons but pocket holes would be fine also. The back skin will carry the load provided its 1/2 or thicker and the partial torsion box will carry the front load. The plywood top will make up for joiner flaws provided its glued properly to all the upper frame parts.
Don
For a thirty you dont need to change anything. I would still put a top on it and skin it for shear strength but thats about it.
Don
TheFishMan65
New member
I like the looks of that much better. Don is probably right, I don't understand torsion box real well.
wiscousonian
New member
Enthusiastic, As a reference i made my tank stand for a 125 and it's 42" tall...I'm on a cement slab. I think that this is a great height for the tank as it's a good viewing level, without having to bend over. If i were to do it again, i might make it only an inch or two taller.
Just thought I'd post an update for those looking through this thread for ideas too, as i once was. Great resource for help in here, thanks everyone! Here is the final product:
p.s. Sorry I'm only Freshwater at this point, maybe switching to SW in future.
Just thought I'd post an update for those looking through this thread for ideas too, as i once was. Great resource for help in here, thanks everyone! Here is the final product:
p.s. Sorry I'm only Freshwater at this point, maybe switching to SW in future.
Rhodophyta
New member
Stands bigger than the tanks may not add all that much stability. I would not change it either front to back or left to right. A top and a skin make sense. If no on would trip on it, you could attach a pedestal wider than the stand at the bottom, and reaching behind the stand to the wall.
