DIY Stands Template and Calculator

I had a question about screws. Do you neccesarily have to use them on the outside frame or could you go with a more natural looking dove tail and wood glue? Would it still be able to maintain structural integrity given that the legs and cross beams are the only surfaces to use screws.
 
Have any calculations been run to see how large of a tank you could double stack using 2x4s? Or, at what size does it become an issue not having the shorter end sides directly supported?

I want to stack two 40 breeders, and am pretty sure the multi-stack design will be fine, but am just wondering how high you could take it?
 
I had a question about screws. Do you neccesarily have to use them on the outside frame or could you go with a more natural looking dove tail and wood glue? Would it still be able to maintain structural integrity given that the legs and cross beams are the only surfaces to use screws.

If you want to dovetail the top then do it. It wont affect load strength. It may even add to the shear strength since the screws are so close to the edge they dont do much for shear anyways. Same goes for the glue since its in the end grain there is not much strength from the glue.

Don
 
Reef1121, most folks don't have dovetails machines. As long as the weight is transferred through wood and not through screws or glues you should be good.
 
Astex, you will be fine. As long as the front and back are well supported and the weight is on wood (not screws) two 40 gallons will stack.
 
Thats good to know. I love the look of dove tail and noticed no one really does it anymore so figured I'd give it a shot. My uncle builds custom cabinetry for people and showed me how to do it with just some simple tools.
 
I would like to build a stand for my 300 gallon tank. Tank dim. are 96x30x25. Will 2x8 for the top and 2x8 for the leg suffice. My sump is in the basement so I don't mind putting a few support in the front and back of the stand. I just need room to get under the tank to install the hoses from the bulkheads. Would like the stand to be lite enough to move.

Thanks in advance
 
ricwill,

You only need 2x4s for the legs. Use 2x4 for the bottom. Only the top rail varies. You can use any of the following
- 2x10 with no middle legs
- 2x6 with one middle legs (in the center)
- 2x4s and two middle legs (split in thirds) - I think this would be the lightest, but only leaves opening of about 20 inches
Is this a glass framed tank?
 
ricwill,

You only need 2x4s for the legs. Use 2x4 for the bottom. Only the top rail varies. You can use any of the following
- 2x10 with no middle legs
- 2x6 with one middle legs (in the center)
- 2x4s and two middle legs (split in thirds) - I think this would be the lightest, but only leaves opening of about 20 inches
Is this a glass framed tank?

Yes, it is a glass tank

Thanks for the responce
 
Oh, sorry

Its a euro brace tank. Its framed at the bottom but it does not have the strip going from the front to the back on the bottom of the tank. Just a black plastic around the bottom. The plastic is about 1/16th inch thick. The inside bottom is euro braced as well.
 
If you're talking about a Miracles or Reef Savvy type of tank with the thin plastic trim around the bottom, that is generally considered a rimless tank and you will want to check with the manufacturer about what they suggest you put under it. The tank I just set up is a Miracles rimless and they did put the thin "L" shaped trim around the bottom edge but still recommended that the tank be placed on foam. My stand has doubled-up 2x6s, crossbraces, 2 layers of 3/4" ACS plywood, then 1/2" foam.
 
I'm looking to build a stand for my 40 breeder as cheaply and easily as possible any ideas?

For something that small, its possible to use 1X4 in place of the 2X4 in the overall design. This would require that the yellow and blue boards are longer by 1.5" as the red and orange boards have gone from being 1.5" in the original template to .75" for a 1X4. Otherwise, it stays pretty much the same.

If I were building a stand for a 40g, I would seriously consider building three square frames (front and 2 sides) using pocket screws out of the finish material and a fourth frame (the back) out of pine. Then I would top it with plywood. Doors I leave to you.

HTH,
RocketEngineer
 
Here's a DIY project I came across, through one of the threads on NR... seems very simple w/very nice final product. The structure/design of the stand is very different however - not based on a 2xX frame for strength but rather on 3/4" ply w/some support from corner sticks.

Any views pro / con on this approach?

http://www.projectaquarium.com/plantedAquariumArticles_ADAAquariumStand.aspx

Spacey :)

Way over built, he has the tools but lacks the knowledge. A single sheet of nice plywood, 1 8' 1x6 for finish grade face frame and some glue is plenty of material for a 40b stand less the doors. Buy some doors on line and you have at least a cabinet grade stand.

Don
 
Thank you for such a great thread. I have been looking for some info for the stand. Thechnicians say it is impossible to build tall stand, I don't think so. My aquarium size is L84,5"(214)*W19,7(50)*H27,5(70). Stand should be 47,2"(120).

Thank you.
 
Thank you for such a great thread. I have been looking for some info for the stand. Thechnicians say it is impossible to build tall stand, I don't think so. My aquarium size is L84,5"(214)*W19,7(50)*H27,5(70). Stand should be 47,2"(120).

Thank you.

47" is to tall unless you attatch it to a fixed wall or widen to effectively lower the center of gravity. 36" is as tall as i would go and still taller than any engineered stand that size.

Don
 
Back
Top