DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[TheFishMan65]

bruce,
I think you meant two purple legs and green or just one purple. One purple for the middle leg is what you want.

I would do cross braces every 12-16 inches. You don't have to have them at the bottom.

 

[fazio92]

That sounds like a good plan.
What 400? Same foot print just taller?
For the 330 verticals only need to be 2x4s. Only the top frame has to be heavier. With one center leg and a left and right leg you can use 2x6 for the top beams (two large openings). Three openings is better support and not a problem.

Here's a sketch of the stand and stand/tank. Let me know if you think its overkill or just right. Thanks

 

[TheFishMan65]

That will work, but ...

You don't need 2x6 for the legs - you can if you want
I don't see why you need double 2x6 for the center legs.
You don't need the 2x8s for the top frame 2x6 will work

 

[LinkinReef]

LinkinReef,
Ideally, you really want a leg at each corner of the tank. So you really can't do what you want. There are some catches, but I would like to understand your intentions.

How big of a sump are you thinking? Why can't you just pull it out the front?

I was thinking this way because I currently have a 210g stand and it has a center panel which makes it a pain to get into the sump. If i build it like the image on the first page i won't need a front panel right? If I don't need it then i can definitely access the sump from the front and will have no need for a side door.

I want to place a 40g breeder as a sump inside the stand. The sump and stand will have to be deeper than the tank so I was wondering if the tank has to be centered of can I just place the tank slightly more towards the front of the tank hiding the extra depth of the stand without it affecting the weight of the tank.

Thanks!

 

[TheFishMan65]

What I would do then is double the back legs so there is another set 6 inches and then double the rear top beams. This will allow either an 18 or 24 inch tanks.

 

[LinkinReef]

What I would do then is double the back legs so there is another set 6 inches and then double the rear top beams. This will allow either an 18 or 24 inch tanks.

so basically another 4 of the purple in the back and the top ones to double would be the yellow ones? Sorry for all the questions, I've never done anything like this and it's easier for me to just hand over the plans to a carpenter to build it for me because I have no space to try to build it.

Thanks again!

 

[NickC5FE]

I would like to ask the original poster (ROCKETENGINEER)- I have a 40G Breeder that i will be setting up soon and would like to use your tank stand ideas to build a stand for myself. Reason being is i do not want a short-pre-made crappy stand, and every stand i have seen is short! I would like to have the breeder posted high up so it is at viewing level and a large door so everything is accessible underneath-so no vertical cross bars. I will (if i have to) bolt the stand to the wall. I thought there was a calculator somewhere to "build" your stand on this thread, but cant seem to find it anymore. Thanks!

 

[TheFishMan65]

Nick,
No calculator, just equations in post 1 to follow. You can use 2x4s, not vertical in the center needed for a 40 gallon breeder.

 

[TheFishMan65]

Linkin,
No another read one (but three inches shorter). Both a 120 and 75 are 4 feet long so the problem is the stand needs to support either an 18 or 24 inch deep tank.

I would probably double the bottom blues. Add 2 purple (one at each side) turned to support the new red middle beam. The ne purple is supported by both bottom blues.

 

[NickC5FE]

Thanks Fishman! Will look wayyyyy back at post 1

 

[RocketEngineer]

NickC5FE, All you need to do is look at the first page of this thread, post 3.

Now, for a 40G breeder, you can get away with 1X4 instead of 2X because of the smaller tank size. My own design for a 40g breeder stand uses pocket screws instead of the green screw strips in the original plan. The idea is to make 4 "picture frames" with a bottom board, two legs, and a top board. Then the four frames are connected along the corners to make the overall box. Simple and easy.

HTH,
RocketEngineer

 

[TheFishMan65]

Note that it is post one in the original thread so look way way wayyyyy back

 

[NickC5FE]

HAHA, Thanks guys! Yeah, i realised after i posted that this thread has split like 3 times! WOW! Thanks RE! When i get to my new home in Texas, i will start the process and post pictures!

 

[av8rtrb]

NickC5FE, All you need to do is look at the first page of this thread, post 3.

Now, for a 40G breeder, you can get away with 1X4 instead of 2X because of the smaller tank size. My own design for a 40g breeder stand uses pocket screws instead of the green screw strips in the original plan. The idea is to make 4 "picture frames" with a bottom board, two legs, and a top board. Then the four frames are connected along the corners to make the overall box. Simple and easy.

HTH,
RocketEngineer

Since you make a stand out of 4 1X4 frames joined at the corners I have a question; for an aquarium this size could I make a stand out of 3/4" thick solid wood panels (boards joined with biscuits) for the sides and maybe a 3/4" plywood top rabbeted into the sides and back? I've been planning something like this in red oak. I'd like to get away from the internal frames with skin on the outside. What do you think?

 

[av8rtrb]

And just as an additional question, I've seen references in these threads to plywood cabinets without internal bracing; just plywood panels joined with finishing nails and glue. Do you think that is strong enough for these size (40B) aquariums?

 

[Donw]

And just as an additional question, I've seen references in these threads to plywood cabinets without internal bracing; just plywood panels joined with finishing nails and glue. Do you think that is strong enough for these size (40B) aquariums?

Not finish nails and glue no. Properly joined panels using dado's and rabbets yes. There is no reason to use 2x4's on a 40g or a 240g tank if you can properly join the plywood panels.

Don

 

[abaralnek]

im in the planning stages of my build.the tank is a 90g with a 40breeder as a sump.wondering instead of the base orange and blue 2x4's standing the way they are can i lay them down instead?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Since you make a stand out of 4 1X4 frames joined at the corners I have a question; for an aquarium this size could I make a stand out of 3/4" thick solid wood panels (boards joined with biscuits) for the sides and maybe a 3/4" plywood top rabbeted into the sides and back? I've been planning something like this in red oak. I'd like to get away from the internal frames with skin on the outside. What do you think?

And just as an additional question, I've seen references in these threads to plywood cabinets without internal bracing; just plywood panels joined with finishing nails and glue. Do you think that is strong enough for these size (40B) aquariums?

The short answer is yes, its strong enough. Biscuits and glue or pocket screws would work to make a plywood box to support a tank in the 40B range. Just make sure the top is sitting on the sides of the box rather than in a rabbit as this will give maximum support to the top.

The technique you describe can be used be used for much larger stands. The thing to keep in mind is that the technique you describe is more advanced and require tools that some folks don't have (circular saw/table saw and biscuit cutter). That is the only reason they are not shown in this thread, most folks DIY so they can save money. If someone has the tools or can borrow them, more power to them.

RocketEngineer

 

[abaralnek]

wondering if i can lay the base 2x4"s down and pocket hold the supports with some gussets?im trying to gain as much height room under the stand without going extremely tall.the stand will need to be shimmed a little and wasnt sure if the 2x4"s laying down would be good?

 

[abaralnek]

come on guys,id love to get this started today.would a piece of 3/4 " plywood be better than laying the 2x4"s down and start the build from there or should i just stick to the design and raise the stand higher?