canesfan44
New member
In progress.
Completed.
Doors remove completely.
65 display fuge in place.
Still need to fill nail holes, sand, and finish.
Very nice. I like how you added partitions to keep electronics and such dry and in a less humid area.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Very nice. I like how you added partitions to keep electronics and such dry and in a less humid area.
110galreef
New member
Frag tank stand.
tank will be 60x28x12....basically a 85g tank. So should be less than 800# said and done.
...2x6 top or 2x4 more than enuf. I also plan to run a few boards like so....looking top down.
and extra 2x4 running side to side
|---------------|(2x4)
|ooooooooooooo|(nothing)
|---------------|(2x4)
|ooooooooooooo|(nothing)
|---------------|(2x4)
or extra 2x4's running front to back
|---|---|---|---|
|ooo|oo|ooo|ooo|
|ooo|oo|ooo|ooo|
|---|---|---|---|
stand will be 60(l) x 28(d) x 38(t)
tank will be 60x28x12....basically a 85g tank. So should be less than 800# said and done.
...2x6 top or 2x4 more than enuf. I also plan to run a few boards like so....looking top down.
and extra 2x4 running side to side
|---------------|(2x4)
|ooooooooooooo|(nothing)
|---------------|(2x4)
|ooooooooooooo|(nothing)
|---------------|(2x4)
or extra 2x4's running front to back
|---|---|---|---|
|ooo|oo|ooo|ooo|
|ooo|oo|ooo|ooo|
|---|---|---|---|
stand will be 60(l) x 28(d) x 38(t)
neitherman
New member
Could anyone give me an assessment for the viability of this stand I created in SketchUp based on RocketEngineer's OP?
I want to use it to hold a 180 gallon that's 6'x2'x2'. I made sure it was around 3' high to allow clearance for the AquaC EV-240 that (hopefully someday) I'll be able to include in a set up. I'm most concerned about not including a front center brace, which as mentioned by others will allow me easy access to the sump. Thanks for taking a look.
Edit: Looks like if I would have paged back to page 101 I could have found the answers I was looking for. Still will take any feedback/criticism that's being dispensed, however.
I want to use it to hold a 180 gallon that's 6'x2'x2'. I made sure it was around 3' high to allow clearance for the AquaC EV-240 that (hopefully someday) I'll be able to include in a set up. I'm most concerned about not including a front center brace, which as mentioned by others will allow me easy access to the sump. Thanks for taking a look.
Edit: Looks like if I would have paged back to page 101 I could have found the answers I was looking for. Still will take any feedback/criticism that's being dispensed, however.
Last edited:
fetta
New member
Ok i could use some help here. i have a 75 gallon im tring to build a stand for, but want to be able to upgrade later to a bigger tank. is there anyway of building a stand roughly 72 x 24 and still be able to keep my space under the stand for a sump say maybe a 40b or 55. I want it to hold a 75 gallon.
thanks for any help
thanks for any help
Rhodophyta
New member
You could use this design for a double tank stand and then "wrap" it to make it into a cabinet style, with room for a 55 or even a 75 gallon sump underneath, and upgrade to a 120 or 150 on top.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_stand2.php
I built five of them about 7 years ago for ten tanks from 125 to 75 gallons and they all still look new and straight.
fetta
New member
ok another ? im putting a 75 on top of the stand. so ? is if i put 3/4" plywood on top of the stand do i have to worry about making sure the tank hits the edges of the frame. its a glass tank. now i will be putting cross members on the top frame about 12" centers and top frame i was planning on making it out of 2x6
Rhodophyta
New member
It should work. I think doubled two by 4's with a half inch plywood sandwich would deflect less than a 2 by 6.
jacob.morgan78
New member
I'm getting ready to build a stand for a 20 gallon High that I'm putting into my son's room. I'm confident that I can build a good frame but I'm worried about the finishing and it looking good along with adding a door. Can anybody point me in a good direction to finish it well with skinning it and moldings or whatnot. Thanks!
Rhodophyta
New member
I would consider putting the bottom boards flat since they will distribute the weight over more surface that way.
I would not put the extra two legs in at all. You can put a ledger board in on the inside of the upper frame and that will support any cross pieces you want to put in. The 12 or 16" center board you are putting in would be pointless for glass tanks, but you never know when you might switch to acrylic, so good idea!
Be sure the frame and crosspieces are not in the way of any holes drilled in the shelf for bulkheads.
When you put a sump in, any extra support would be near the front I would think. I would push the sump back as far as it goes so I have open space in front and along a side or two.
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fetta
New member
the extra legs in there are supporting the 2x6 going across long ways supporting the front of the tank, i just didn't want nails to be the only thing supporting that beam. and as for plywood that is a 3/4". and thanks forgot about the bulkheads i may have to move one of those cross memebers
Rhodophyta
New member
I know what you put it there for. It is of no value for that purpose.
Nails....... screws and glue, mostly glue, is what provides strength to any of these wood stands. I hope that is figurative.
The ledgerboard will provide much more support than an extra couple legs.
http://www.ehow.com/how_12214249_build-ledger-board-soffit.html
windowlicker916
New member
Hopefully this catches someones eye. Any suggestions, pretty much Rockets design but went with 2x6 on top and 2 vertical support in back and 1 in front, going to have 3 doors on front and one on each end for storage.
Tank is 72x30x24. Measurements for center supports aren't exact, just figuring it out.
There will be a board inside on the bottom and board on top and if I need extra torsional support I will be placing a board on the back.
Plan on skinning it with thinner material for looks.
Tank is 72x30x24. Measurements for center supports aren't exact, just figuring it out.
There will be a board inside on the bottom and board on top and if I need extra torsional support I will be placing a board on the back.
Plan on skinning it with thinner material for looks.
Attachments
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
That should work. All the legs can be 2X4. You don't need quite that many red and yellow pieces for structural reasons.
For a tank that size you only need one center leg and even that's questionable for a 72" tank.
jacob.morgan78
New member
I'm getting ready to build a stand for a 20 gallon High that I'm putting into my son's room. I'm confident that I can build a good frame but I'm worried about the finishing and it looking good along with adding a door. Can anybody point me in a good direction to finish it well with skinning it and moldings or whatnot. Thanks!
windowlicker916
New member
I thought for a 72" tank you recommended a 2x8 top frame, I'm using 2x6. Are you saying it probably doesn't need vertical legs with 2x6 because it is spread over a 30" depth as apposed to 24"?
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Not quite. With the addition of a central leg you don't need the 2X8. Given that the leg position isn't defined, I can't run the numbers on a 2X4 so I recommend staying with a 2X6. The 30" actually makes it worse because its more load on the long pieces. The center leg position drives the size of the top frame.
HTH,
RocketEngineer
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
For something that small, I would actually build the stand using the finish lumber for everything that is seen. Here is an example of a 40B stand I have planned:
Overall:
Frame Only:
The oak boards form the primary supports as well as the finished surfaces. To build this type of stand, I would start by building four rectangular frames, a front, two ends, and a back. Each of these four frames is built using pocket screws much like a picture frame and then joined along the edges to form the stand proper. So that only oak is showing, the back frame is inset and the end frames are long enough to cover the back frame entirely. Next, I added some lumber around the inside at the bottom to help support the plywood under the sump. Another piece supports the back edge of the tank. The doors are simply 1/2" plywood with a 3/4" thick oak surround attached to the plywood with biscuits and pocket screws between the pieces of oak.
Overall its a very simple design, easy to build for a small stand but doesn't necessarily translate well to supporting a larger tank. It also requires a little more skill.
HTH,
RocketEngineer
