DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
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Caragol
Caragol
I'm going to be building a stand for a 240 glass, the stand would be 96x24x40tall. I have been reading, then second guessing myself...
So if I just built the entire stand like the diagram on page 1 with 2x6s and added two vertical braces in the back and one in the front like Snakemanvet (picture below), I should be OK right? I know the purpose is the avoid the extra vertical braces, but I'd rather use 2x6 than 2x8 and the braces make me happy.
Also, leveling. If my floor is off by 1/16th, enough for the stand to rock slightly after it's built, do I shim or what's my best bet?
So if I just built the entire stand like the diagram on page 1 with 2x6s and added two vertical braces in the back and one in the front like Snakemanvet (picture below), I should be OK right? I know the purpose is the avoid the extra vertical braces, but I'd rather use 2x6 than 2x8 and the braces make me happy.
Also, leveling. If my floor is off by 1/16th, enough for the stand to rock slightly after it's built, do I shim or what's my best bet?
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
I'm going to be building a stand for a 240 glass, the stand would be 96x24x40tall. I have been reading, then second guessing myself...
So if I just built the entire stand like the diagram on page 1 with 2x6s and added two vertical braces in the back and one in the front like Snakemanvet (picture below), I should be OK right? I know the purpose is the avoid the extra vertical braces, but I'd rather use 2x6 than 2x8 and the braces make me happy.
Also, leveling. If my floor is off by 1/16th, enough for the stand to rock slightly after it's built, do I shim or what's my best bet?
If you use the same leg count, the top can be 2X6. However, the rest can be 2X4 as the larger wood isn't needed.
If the floor is off, shims are your best bet. Personally I like cedar shakes (think siding) as they are cheap and cedar is highly resistant to rot. Composite shims also work but are more expensive. Either work.
Caragol
Caragol
Tank arrived today, here's the catch, the glass is 1/16 less than 8 foot, but the black trim makes the tank 8' 1/8". Do I need to make the stand that extra 1/8 in for the trim? Or is 8' good because of the width of the glass? It's the plywood on top that I'd need an extra sheet for that extra 1/8in.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Are you going to run edging around the plywood? The top of my stand has a 1.5" wide band of solid wood running around the outside of the plywood. It's attached with biscuits and glue so easy to duplicate. If you did something like that, the 1/16th on each side that sits on the edging should be fine.
ScruffyRubicon
New member
Here is mine:
Finished
Finished
Caragol
Caragol
I suppose it's a tiny tiny bit of overhang, bolting a little trim to the sides level with the plywood would do the trick as there would be little downward force for that extra 1/8 (1/16th on each side) part. Now I just have to figure out the foam, this is a glasscages glass tank, they want foam underneath which I think is only sold in 8' sheets.
Edit: I posted this without saying THANK YOU! I really appreciate this thread and all the time you've put into it. I appreciate that you still take care of it years later too. You've put my mind at ease and save a lot of us a lot of money.
Am in the process of building a stand for my next tank, a Marineland 265, and I have decided to do something I've been noodling over for a while. Specifically, I have glued/screwed two sheets of 3/4 inch plywood together and ripped 8 inch strips on my table saw. I figured that a 1 1/2 inch x 8 inch 'micro-lam' would be both flatter and deflect less than a comparable 2x8 beam. Initially I am very pleased, stand is ruler flat and even on the 84" long dimension there is far less deflection than with a standard 2x8 (I tested both and can detect deflection in the latter but not in the former). My question is whether I can dispense with vertical supports or not? Along the 84" dimension I was planning two, at the 28" and 56" points, but perhaps I will just do one in the center. Thoughts appreciated.
I had a similar tank some years ago (World Class Aquarium, rather than GC, but the tanks look very similar - almost identical, actually) and used multiple pieces of foam. Not critical, IMO, to have a single, continuous run.
Powederblue
New member
Thanks to rockeet, starting a 210 build.
2X6 and 2X4. Missing the front and rear center supports. Will post progress.
2X6 and 2X4. Missing the front and rear center supports. Will post progress.
Powederblue
New member
ready for kilz then skinning with 3/4 inch maple ply.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
The best solution is to use pocket screws instead of the screw strips. Also, you need to make sure the stand is large enough to go around the plumbing.
RiddleEagle18
New member
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
I have a 34 gallon solana cube that is 20x20x20.
I want to make a stand that has an extra 3 inches on either side except the back(no plumbing it's an all in one). So 26" long 23 deep.
I also plan to add a granite top to it if I can find a good price on a piece of remnant.
For a tank this size does it really need to be supported directly under the tank or would I be good just designing the tank as per the original plan with the bigger dimensions?
I have a 34 gallon solana cube that is 20x20x20.
I want to make a stand that has an extra 3 inches on either side except the back(no plumbing it's an all in one). So 26" long 23 deep.
I also plan to add a granite top to it if I can find a good price on a piece of remnant.
For a tank this size does it really need to be supported directly under the tank or would I be good just designing the tank as per the original plan with the bigger dimensions?
Powederblue
New member
frame done and tank in place. Finishing the skin to apply this weekend.
Lsbalogh580
New member
Rocket Engineer - using your design from page 100 for a 72 gallon bow glass tank, can you use 2x4 for the base and corner legs and use 2 x 6 for top section? The 72 gallon bow is 48 x 18 x 23. Thank you for your assistance.
I finally built my frame yesterday. I checked and double checked squareness the entire time. After all said and done it is still 1/16" out of square in some places and under 1/8" out of square in other places. And it rocks a little bit. I was so ****ed. I don't think it'll be a problem though. The top shows it is level. I'm going to sand the 2x4's to make sure the joints don't have any lip what so ever. I'll get the tank on the stand once I have someone over who can help me lift it.
Next up is going to be skinning it.
Next up is going to be skinning it.
Tradewinds
Active member
Rocket Engineer - I would like to cut out 9" from both the front corners of the stand (tan area).
Would this be feasible for a 180 stand that will be 32" tall?
Would this be feasible for a 180 stand that will be 32" tall?
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