Hey guys. Quick question, I'm building my stand for the 190, 60"x27"x27". My floor is out of level from left to right.over the 5' span 3/8".its a concrete slab. Should I rip my bottom of stand at an angle to accomidate slope and keep top level? Or should I build square and shim to level right before I nail baseboard? Thanks guys!
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Powederblue
New member
Anybody?
jefnalyssa
New member
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
You need to use the dimensions of the plastic as the glass sits on that. That's the main reason I recommend the stand is 1/2" longer and wider than the tank is to account for the plastic frame.
nogascans
Member
I have a question about a stand I want to build for a 60 marineland cube. I have studied some nice cube stand builds, and have the basics in my head as well as on paper. I am planning on a slightly larger stand at 31x31 compared to tank 24x24, and would use the base, uprights (Kreg screws), and top with 3/4" plywood. Plan on skinning the stand with 1/4".
My question is this. Could I use a piece of 3/4" plywood on top of 2x4 base, using a flush router bit to frame dimensions, and then mount legs on top of this. I am trying to eliminate a rough cut as well as rough fit for shelf for sump. I would also plan on using glue throughout.
If I understand correctly, I want load for tank from top thru legs to floor.
My idea would be tank>3/4 plywood top>2x4 top frame>legs>plywood base>2x4 base frame>floor.
Just not sure if the piece of 3/4" between base and leg bottom affect stand integrity. Is this OK or am I missing something.
Thanks in advance for responses.
Sincerely,
David
My question is this. Could I use a piece of 3/4" plywood on top of 2x4 base, using a flush router bit to frame dimensions, and then mount legs on top of this. I am trying to eliminate a rough cut as well as rough fit for shelf for sump. I would also plan on using glue throughout.
If I understand correctly, I want load for tank from top thru legs to floor.
My idea would be tank>3/4 plywood top>2x4 top frame>legs>plywood base>2x4 base frame>floor.
Just not sure if the piece of 3/4" between base and leg bottom affect stand integrity. Is this OK or am I missing something.
Thanks in advance for responses.
Sincerely,
David
trinidiver
New member
Very interesting Thread.......
Fail_sh3d
New member
I would like to know as well.
nogascans
Member
jefnalyssa
New member
The weight of the tank would be supported fine. It's no different then the tank on top of the plywood up top. The part that worries me is if the stand would rack. You would have to cross brace it. Or the other option is when you skin it. Make sure the skin would extend across the joints and fastened properly.
Wombat_101
Reefer
Hi I am getting back into the hobby and have built a stand slightly modified from RocketEngineer's design to be in-wall.
The tank will be 72" long x 30" deep x 27" High with external overflows. It is 250 Gallons approx and will be a flat bottom glass tank made by Coast to Coast Aquariums.
The Stand sits at 38" High. The Top construction is 2x8 and the top is 3/4 oak plywood. Covered in Behr Exterior paint.
The stand is not completed yet as I still need to add the additional purple legs.
Please see attached images and let me know if you think this stand will work or do I need to add/modify anything.
Thanks
Greg
The tank will be 72" long x 30" deep x 27" High with external overflows. It is 250 Gallons approx and will be a flat bottom glass tank made by Coast to Coast Aquariums.
The Stand sits at 38" High. The Top construction is 2x8 and the top is 3/4 oak plywood. Covered in Behr Exterior paint.
The stand is not completed yet as I still need to add the additional purple legs.
Please see attached images and let me know if you think this stand will work or do I need to add/modify anything.
Thanks
Greg
nogascans
Member
Thanks for the feedback.
On the racking, not sure I understand. If I use longer Kreg style screws from bottom of legs thru 3/4" plywood and into 2 x 4 base, would that not be the same as screwing the legs to the base (gluing all pieces as well)? I have seen other builds here where in lieu of using the inside uprights and standard screwing, the Kreg style screws have been used. Am I missing something?
I am planning on skinning with plywood (again with glue and fasteners) all the sides and cutting out for access on front and right side for sump doors. Left side would be solid, and rear would have a few cutouts for return and electrical.
Again, thanks for feedback!
Sincerely,
David
On the racking, not sure I understand. If I use longer Kreg style screws from bottom of legs thru 3/4" plywood and into 2 x 4 base, would that not be the same as screwing the legs to the base (gluing all pieces as well)? I have seen other builds here where in lieu of using the inside uprights and standard screwing, the Kreg style screws have been used. Am I missing something?
I am planning on skinning with plywood (again with glue and fasteners) all the sides and cutting out for access on front and right side for sump doors. Left side would be solid, and rear would have a few cutouts for return and electrical.
Again, thanks for feedback!
Sincerely,
David
jefnalyssa
New member
The best way I can think to explain racking is, If you loosen all the legs on your dining room table. It will hold the downward weight but if you push it sideways it fall. Looks like you have a good plan there. The screws biting into the bottom 2 by 4 will help. Making the back and one side all but solid will make sure the stand doesn't rack.
PurdueMAN_08
Critter Kreeper
I am using a glasscages 72" x 37.5" x 30.5" (3/4" glass) tank and this is the design I thought up. Will this be sufficient? The tank sits on the bottom pane of glass so support can't just be along the outer edge.
Top is 1" plywood
2x10 under that
4x4 legs
2x6 bottom
Notice that the 2x10 and 2x6 are doubled up along the edge.
Tank with rock, sand and water will weight up to 6,000 lbs.
I have a crawlspace but had (3) 3' x 3' x 12" piers poured under where the tank will be to support the 2x12 floor joists which are 12" on center. I will build up foundation block to meet the 2x12 joists before installing tank.
PurdueMAN_08
Critter Kreeper
Forgot to add that there will be a 3/4" foam insulation board between tank and 1" plywood.
The support bars running towards the middle of the legs is for horizontal support and are located on 3 sides composed of 2x6.
The support bars running towards the middle of the legs is for horizontal support and are located on 3 sides composed of 2x6.
Wombat_101
Reefer
well I am no expert but based on reading almost all the posts in the 2 threads about rocketengineers design you do NOT want to use 4x4 posts as they are not as good as the 2 2x4 design, read the first thread it discussed in the first few pages. Also you only need 2x4's for everything below the 2x10 top frame. As stated earlier a single 2x4 in a vertical load situation can support a lot of weight.
see http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10453454&postcount=24
see http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10453454&postcount=24
