DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[MarksReef]

nogascans, Is that a cube?

I am planing on a 30X30 cube. is there anything different because of the 30" span (depth)?
All 2x4's O.K.?
I havent ordered tank yet but I'd guess the plastic frame (bottom) adds to the dimensions. Does anyone know the dimensions total for the bottom of a 30X30 Marineland?

 

[nogascans]

MarksReef, yes, it is a cube. Due to budgeting, I am going with a used Marineland 60 gallon cube (24 x 24) I picked up in trade for some frags from current D/T.

I built the stand with a 32" x 32" design, so in future if budget allows I can jump to the Marineland 93 cube (30 x 30). I used 2 x 4 for all framing, 3/4" top and inside deck, and used a Kreg jig and screws, waterproof glue.

I have just finished "skinning" the outside with 1/4" Birch luan plywood. I used my router and edge bit to cut out for front and side doors (openings are 24" wide x 26" high,2 doors to each opening). Will be working on doors and trim this weekend. If weather warms, maybe paint interior and stain next week. This is my first foray into wood-working, so please be easy with critique's.



Sincerely,

David

nogascans, Is that a cube?

I am planing on a 30X30 cube. is there anything different because of the 30" span (depth)?
All 2x4's O.K.?
I havent ordered tank yet but I'd guess the plastic frame (bottom) adds to the dimensions. Does anyone know the dimensions total for the bottom of a 30X30 Marineland?

 

[MarksReef]

Thanks, That looks great.
I just picked up the wood for mine today and just working on measurements. So I take it you are safe putting the tank inside the frame as long as you have the 3/4 inch top.
I seen the question asked but didn't see an answer. Id like to build it 1-2 inch bigger (overhangs) on except for the back (Glass Holes-overflow plumbing out the back)

 

[nogascans]

MarksReef,

like you, I asked the same question, and the basic consensus was that based on aquarium size and loaded weight, it would be fine.

I had seen some other designs where they made the framing large like mine, but then inside added 2 x 4 hung (2nd frame) for tank to sit on (screwed to the vertical and horizontal loads, but no independent vertical support thru to floor, so essentially tank hanging by fasteners). Seems like in reading this is not correct.

I know with my stand design, it seems very solid. As referred to my another reefer, his only concern was racking, and skinning the outside should address that concern.

I have room underneath for a 29 and a 20H, as well as room for equipment, so my sump and water storage are covered. I'll try and take a few pictures of both tanks sitting there tonight if time allows.

Sincerely,

David

Thanks, That looks great.
I just picked up the wood for mine today and just working on measurements. So I take it you are safe putting the tank inside the frame as long as you have the 3/4 inch top.
I seen the question asked but didn't see an answer. Id like to build it 1-2 inch bigger (overhangs) on except for the back (Glass Holes-overflow plumbing out the back)

 

[urbaneks]

I'm seeking input on the following stand design.

The tank is 60"x48"x20" (250 gallons) and the stand will be built to 40" tall. Everything I've read in this thread says that I need 2x6's on the top box but everything else can be 2x4 and no center bracing is needed. Just looking for verification and input.

​

 

[nogascans]

Here is a picture of stand with tank and sump before trim finished.



Here is after trim finished.



Now onto doors.

Sincerely,

David

 

[jp123]

I am about to set up a 87" x 39" x 30" glass tank. I want to have it in-wall so the front of the tank is flush with the dry wall. Do I put a 2x6 on top of the wall studs, flush with the back side of the dry wall? Then where the opening for the tank is, have plywood overhang 1/2" to be flush with the drywall? Will the wall studs be strong enough to support that 4" of overhang? I would like to actually have the stand a 1/2" smaller than the tank so when I skin it, the results are flush with the tank. Is this not recommended since the edges wont be fully supported by the wood?

Also, I would like to maximize my back space opening (side opposite wall). Should I use a 2x10 across then use 3 2x4s in the center for bracing?

And I may have missed it, but what app does everyone use for their stand diagrams? Sketchup? If it is sketchup, is there a single place where you guys store your diagrams?

Thank you,
Jason

 

[Mrramsey]

Ok I have a design question. I am building out a 120g 48x24x24 with a 55g sump also a 48" footprint. Here is an elevation sketch.


You can see tha to am wanting to offset the sump by about 6" to make plumbing simpler. This means that the stand will need to be wider than the tank. Thus the ends if the tank will be between the vertical supports. I was planning to use 2x6 on the top frame. What do you think?

 

[SPotter]

Here is a picture of stand with tank and sump before trim finished.



Here is after trim finished.



Now onto doors.

Sincerely,

David

What is supporting the 4 corners of the tank? The basic designs in this thread indicate that the corners of the tank should be vertically supported.

 

[Mrramsey]

Ok I have a design question. I am building out a 120g 48x24x24 with a 55g sump also a 48" footprint. Here is an elevation sketch.
View attachment 262517

You can see tha to am wanting to offset the sump by about 6" to make plumbing simpler. This means that the stand will need to be wider than the tank. Thus the ends if the tank will be between the vertical supports. I was planning to use 2x6 on the top frame. What do you think?

For additional clarification here is another view -

The specific concern is that I am clear spanning the tank width.

 

[RocketEngineer]

For additional clarification here is another view -

The specific concern is that I am clear spanning the tank width.

Go the other way. The sump goes in from the end. 25" (I always recommend building the stand slightly larger than the tank) - 7" (3.5"X2) = 18"

There is 18" of space between the legs on the end of the stand which is plenty of space for a 55g.

NOW, I recommend AGAINST a 55g as a sump as it is very tall and will be hard to get into. Personally I would go with a 40b and put the return pump off the end. It is much easier to work in a tank that is 16" tall vs one that is 21" tall.

Just my opinion.

 

[Mrramsey]

Go the other way. The sump goes in from the end. 25" (I always recommend building the stand slightly larger than the tank) - 7" (3.5"X2) = 18"

There is 18" of space between the legs on the end of the stand which is plenty of space for a 55g.

NOW, I recommend AGAINST a 55g as a sump as it is very tall and will be hard to get into. Personally I would go with a 40b and put the return pump off the end. It is much easier to work in a tank that is 16" tall vs one that is 21" tall.

Just my opinion.

Yes I moved it back under the tank in the middle. A 40 b was my first choice but I had the 55g already and just wanted to recycle it rather than spend the bucks on the 40. I like the extra capacity but agreed it is tight.

 

[4Hummer]

Here's My Stand.
Used 1x Pine instead of 2x4, 2x6, and 2x8's It's straighter and nicer looking







Complete Build Located here:
http://www.kwas.ca/forum/showthread.php?25228-Custom-125-Gallon-6-Long-Stand-Build

 

[MarksReef]

I finally started. Ready to wrap it and trim it.

I finally started. Ready to wrap it and trim it.

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I added some supports for the sump and the plywood top.

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Look O.K.?

 

[MarksReef]

I plan on wrapping it with 1/2 Maple (top sides back).
I don't have any bar clamps and giving the cost of them:
Are they necessary? I still will use glue and was thinking of using screws too.
Thanks for the plans and help.

 

[FrostyChicken]

I apologize for jumping into this thread late and more so if this question has already been asked but is there a rule of thumb I can use for the maximum height of the stand? I will be using this design soon to support my 180 and would like the stand to be 48" tall. Will this height raise the center of balance too high and make the tank prone to tip over?

 

[Mrramsey]

You could always increase the depth of the stand to make it deeper for more stability. Just be sure to add the vertical members to the inside of the stand to support the tank.

 

[jimnchal]

Rocket,
I am in the planning phase of my stand for my 180 gallon tank. Question is: If only putting one center brace from the top to the bottom, can I go with 2 x 4 vs 2 x 8 for the top frame?

Thanks

 

[Powederblue]

Rocket,
I am in the planning phase of my stand for my 180 gallon tank. Question is: If only putting one center brace from the top to the bottom, can I go with 2 x 4 vs 2 x 8 for the top frame?

Thanks

Jimnchal, Yes that would work. As your probably read in his earlier post, if you go with a 2X8 upper frame then there is no need for a center support.
On my 225 build i went with 2X6 upper and lower frame and did 1 single 2X4 support just so i would have some support for doors, and the 2X6 gave me added height.
2X4 frame with center support would support your tank, i would recommend putting one in the back as well seeing as you will have that 6ft span unsupported if you do not.

 

[Powederblue]

I apologize for jumping into this thread late and more so if this question has already been asked but is there a rule of thumb I can use for the maximum height of the stand? I will be using this design soon to support my 180 and would like the stand to be 48" tall. Will this height raise the center of balance too high and make the tank prone to tip over?

Frosty, i did this with my 225, however it wasnt exactly 48 more like 42. The frame was a little top heavy but once i attached the skin and filled the tank it wasnt going anywhere.
If the tank is going against the wall and your worried about it being top heavy and you dont want to add depth to the frame, i would recommend attaching it to a stud along that wall and there will be no question.