DIY Stands Template and Calculator
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Idefixes
New member
Stand in final place
Top structure view.
One of the four furniture case that will take place in the structure. They are coming from a kit kitchen program. Big save of time for me and money save too. I bought 4 doors too.
The structure need yet to befinished with painted panels has shown in 3D sketchup.
Marc
Top structure view.
One of the four furniture case that will take place in the structure. They are coming from a kit kitchen program. Big save of time for me and money save too. I bought 4 doors too.
The structure need yet to befinished with painted panels has shown in 3D sketchup.
Marc
You're having the entire weight of the stand, tank, etc resting on 9 adjustable casters?
A 120G tank, less 25% for rock/sand, is 720lbs of water. Add another 200-250lbs of rock and sand, and you're touching 1000lbs, not including the tank itself. Spread over 9 casters, is over 110lbs per caster. Are they rated for that much, and can the flooring support that much pressure?
A 120G tank, less 25% for rock/sand, is 720lbs of water. Add another 200-250lbs of rock and sand, and you're touching 1000lbs, not including the tank itself. Spread over 9 casters, is over 110lbs per caster. Are they rated for that much, and can the flooring support that much pressure?
Idefixes
New member
Yes all weight is on 9 feet but each feet is rated for 1984Lbs (60mm diam black feet pad and 16mm diam screew)=>9x1984~18000lbs so enough marge in IMO. Each feet is supportet by a 16mm (feet screew diameter) holding nut welded on a 65mm diameter x 3mm thick washer that is in weed feet screewed.
Marc
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ctopal
New member
I need some help! My husband built the stand for our 90 according to the plans, but we did go with 2x6. Anyways, it's a little off level, found out the floor was a bit off. Is it ok to have this little shim on the top corner? If we shim it more down below, the stand will be tippy again. Appreciate your thoughts. It's a rimmed tank by the way. I hope I'm just worrying too much, as not sure what else I would do. Thank you!
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RocketEngineer
Space is big.
The top of the stand should be totally flat. If it isn't you need to sand it until it is flat. Then shim the bottom of the stand until the now flat top of the stand is level. Shimming between the tank and the stand puts a lot of stress on the joints in the tank and is likely to lead to failures.
ctopal
New member
Will do, thank you!
Bpb
New member
Quick question. Forgive me for not reading all 300+ pages. This may have been mentioned.
My tank is a standard 55 gallon. I want to build a new stand. I will want to upgrade to a 90 gallon in the future. I'd like this new stand to accommodate a 90 gallon. Stand will come before the tank though. I understand it's best to have the 4 corners of the tank directly over the 4 vertical supports. I can't do that with this new stand design. Is that a problem? The stand frame will be too deep front to back. I don't want to put in additional vertical supports because I want a door on the ends as well to enable easier access to stuff and enable me to slide a sump into the stand which a center vertical support would prohibit.
My tank is a standard 55 gallon. I want to build a new stand. I will want to upgrade to a 90 gallon in the future. I'd like this new stand to accommodate a 90 gallon. Stand will come before the tank though. I understand it's best to have the 4 corners of the tank directly over the 4 vertical supports. I can't do that with this new stand design. Is that a problem? The stand frame will be too deep front to back. I don't want to put in additional vertical supports because I want a door on the ends as well to enable easier access to stuff and enable me to slide a sump into the stand which a center vertical support would prohibit.
ctopal
New member
It's me again, sorry! I planed the top of the stand best I could and then got it stable on the ground and pretty level with shims. So we put the tank up there. One corner is off the stand, between 2/16 and 3/16 of an inch. Can the tank flex that much? I was thinking of maybe getting a piece of thin plywood to go on top of the tank and it might compress a bit and help fill that gap.
Thoughts? Thank you!
Thoughts? Thank you!
ctopal
New member
Thanks, I've got a system going now for fixing it. I've got a cart nearby so we can keep removing/placing the tank. And I'm sliding a decal between the tank and stand. Where it can't slide at all, I mark it, and those are the places I'm sanding down. I think if I keep doing that, eventually it will all sit down.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I had a similar problem ctopal. My floor was horrible and my focus was on the stand-floor connection, I neglected that the tank was floating on corners enough to slide a piece of paper under it, with the tank full.
My solution was to put a piece of 3/4" plywood on top of the stand, then put the tank on (empty), then shim it with very thin shims (cedar shakes from Menards, $15 for a huge bundle). Push shims in from both sides and use lots of narrow, thin pieces (snap the shims lengthwise), go all around with these shims, then score and snap them off.
Some recommend screwing the plywood down but that can 'pull' the plywood down and you have to shim some more. So just get it nice & tight then fill the tank and you're good.
Make sure the stand is in full contact with the floor. Use the same shimming method.
If I had only started doing it this way first, I would not have a bar clamp on one edge of my tank for insurance.
My solution was to put a piece of 3/4" plywood on top of the stand, then put the tank on (empty), then shim it with very thin shims (cedar shakes from Menards, $15 for a huge bundle). Push shims in from both sides and use lots of narrow, thin pieces (snap the shims lengthwise), go all around with these shims, then score and snap them off.
Some recommend screwing the plywood down but that can 'pull' the plywood down and you have to shim some more. So just get it nice & tight then fill the tank and you're good.
Make sure the stand is in full contact with the floor. Use the same shimming method.
If I had only started doing it this way first, I would not have a bar clamp on one edge of my tank for insurance.
Raoul5Duke
Active member
Just looking for confirmation since this will be the largest tank I have ever had.
Tank: 96Lx36Wx24H ~ 360 gallons 3/4" acrylic
Top frame can be 2x6 with a center brace, 2x4 running front to back for additional support or should I use 2x8 for the upper rails?
Legs will be 2x6 with 2x4 for interior or screw strip (green) pieces
Bottom can be all 2x4
3/4" plywood top and bottom, should I also use 3/4" foam as well to be safe?
Thanks for any feedback.
Tank: 96Lx36Wx24H ~ 360 gallons 3/4" acrylic
Top frame can be 2x6 with a center brace, 2x4 running front to back for additional support or should I use 2x8 for the upper rails?
Legs will be 2x6 with 2x4 for interior or screw strip (green) pieces
Bottom can be all 2x4
3/4" plywood top and bottom, should I also use 3/4" foam as well to be safe?
Thanks for any feedback.
100 gallon stand
100 gallon stand
I have been browsing through your DIY stand post. I am looking at building my own stand. I have a few questions. My tank is 100 gallon. 60in x 18in. I would like the stand to be tall so I don't have to bend over as much to look at it. I also would like to add trim pieces to make it look nice. I would like the stand to be around 36" tall. What material should I use? Maybe 2x6? I don't have any wood working experience so any steps or tips would be appreciated. Thanks
100 gallon stand
I have been browsing through your DIY stand post. I am looking at building my own stand. I have a few questions. My tank is 100 gallon. 60in x 18in. I would like the stand to be tall so I don't have to bend over as much to look at it. I also would like to add trim pieces to make it look nice. I would like the stand to be around 36" tall. What material should I use? Maybe 2x6? I don't have any wood working experience so any steps or tips would be appreciated. Thanks
Raoul5Duke
Active member
Bump, can anyone confirm my earlier post as this is outside of the sizes mentioned at the beginning of the post. I'm guessing with a center brace this is find but was hoping RocketEngineer or one of the others could let me know the deflection is safe. Thanks.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
The 2X6 top frame is fine as long as you have the center leg. You only need 2X4s for legs.
Foam is based on the tank builder requirements. If they don't require it then DON'T USE IT. Using foam where it isn't recommended can cause problems with how the tank transfers its weight into the stand.
MarksReef
New member
I built a flat top and asked marine land if I needed to foam and they won't advise on a custom stand.
It is a 93G rimless with no frame on bottom.
What would an engineer do?
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
For a frameless glass tanks - yes, you need foam. Any foam will really do, 1/2" of white styrene or the pink/blue insulation board from HD or Lowe's. Or 3/4".
DivingTheWorld
Active member
+1, from all I've read on this forum Foam is generally recommended for Rimless tanks and not recommended for Rimmed tanks.
I'm currently building a stand for an 80g Rimless and I'm planning to use foam. I'm still deciding between 1/2" and 3/4", but foam was definitely incorporated into my design.
