DIY Stands Template and Calculator

I'm using rocketengineers design for my tank stand. I'm building two stands one for a 120, and one for a 210. Both stands are going to be 42 inches high. I'm building them into a wall and want room to build seating in front of them (main reason for the height).

I just finished the 120 and load tested it with water, everything was just fine. The only question I have on the design is with the 2x6 top frame. I ended up using a hand plane on the top 2x6 frame to remove gaps between the tank and the stand. I didn't see anyone else doing this, was this necessary, or would the wood eventually flatten under the weight of the tank? I feel that the 120 is good and secure, but I'm concerned for the 210 and having the same issue. I considered using a joint router on the 2x6 to ensure a flat surface. Any suggestions?

Tanks are both glass BTW, and from what I can tell with using a polarized filter, the bottom is not tempered glass.
 
Thanks a bunch to RocketEngineer and everyone else who has contributed to this thread. Originally I had a cheapo pine stand painted black that came with the 125g I bought locally. When I found this thread I got the courage to try my hand at woodworking. I'm about as amateur as you can get so I'm very happy how this turned out! In hindsight I wish I had not skinned this with maple. $600 bucks was way over budget for wood. I should have gone cabinet grade pine, especially since I stained it.

 
Quick question. Forgive me for not reading all 300+ pages. This may have been mentioned.

My tank is a standard 55 gallon. I want to build a new stand. I will want to upgrade to a 90 gallon in the future. I'd like this new stand to accommodate a 90 gallon. Stand will come before the tank though. I understand it's best to have the 4 corners of the tank directly over the 4 vertical supports. I can't do that with this new stand design. Is that a problem? The stand frame will be too deep front to back. I don't want to put in additional vertical supports because I want a door on the ends as well to enable easier access to stuff and enable me to slide a sump into the stand which a center vertical support would prohibit.

Ive got the same question and dont think this has been answered. Ive got a 90 gallon tank and hopefully will upgrade to a 125 or 180 in the future. I am using 2x8s for my top rails. My question is, do i need legs on all four corners where the 90 will sit for now? or will the legs on the ends of the full 72 inch stand suffice.

Im attaching a pic where I have laid two 2x4s at the location where I will put 2x8s in for the sides of the 48 inch aquarium, do I need legs under these corners?
 

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I have a 130 x 25 x 24 tank coming. I'd like to get opinions since tank is so long. What size wood for the following? Thanks

Top Rail?
Bottom Rail?
Corner legs?

Crossbeams made out of what and how many inches apart?
 
I think it would better suit you to figure out also what you want to put under the tank. If you want to put a piece of equipment that is 30" long, then you will want openings bigger then 30". I think if you provided that information you will get better or more efficient advice to your cause.
 
madean, thanks for the reply.

To give you a little more info on this tank. It's going to be made out of 3/4" glass and weighs roughly 850 lbs. As far as what is going underneath the tank, the only thing that will be under the tank is plumbing lines (return and drain), they will be running to a fish room that is located behind the wall on one of the ends of the tank. The tank will be a full room divider.

I'm considering doing 2 x 6 for the top rail and all support legs. Not really sure what I need as far as crossbraces and the bottom rail.

The tank will be a 340g. So total weight roughly 4000 pounds with rock and sand.

Thanks again!
 
Rocket, I think I have it figured out but I'm looking for confirmation that this design will work using your template. I need to build about 30 stands that will be 96"L x 48"W x 30"T for a buddy that will be setting up a space. I was looking at your design and was looking to modify it a little to make it work for my needs. I would just sketch it up on google sketch up but my dog chewed up the power cord on my lap top and I haven't had a chance to get another power cord. So I will reference your original four corner colored drawing that's on the first page if this thread. I'm thinking of doubling up the orange bottom pieces on the front and back of the stand to help carry the load since the tank is so deep (48"). I would like to add two vertical supports that would be 32" on center spaced apart. These would be the purple vertical legs. These vertical purple legs would be doubled up and both would be sitting on the orange doubled up boards that help make up the bottom frame. One of the doubled up purple legs will carry the load from the red top frame and the other would carry the load of an additional yellow board that will run from front to back between the the red rails. I would do away with the top blue board in your design and add two more yellow boards. The additional two yellow boards would be the same size as the top frame which is 2" x 6". These yellow boards would sit on the double up purple boards and help spread the load out. Hopefully I have painted a good enough picture to understand my intentions. I thank you for your time and I look forward to your response.
 
Forgot to say that I would put a 4' x 8' x 3/4" piece of plywood on top. And this would be an open frame construction. So no skin would be applied. The tank will be acrylic. I believe the tank will be 4' x 8' x 18" tall. So around 360 gallons or so and these would be the coral tanks. He will also have fish holding tanks that will equate to about 500 gallon tanks on these stands. Hope that helps.
 
Jfarmani I would imagine you could use all 2" x 4" board on everything if you spaced your vertical supports every 24-30" on center. Of course this is using rockets design and recommendations. You can look at the first page of this thread and he posted his design and requirements and a plan to follow on how to do it. If you want long spans without vertical support then rocket gives you a general guideline as to how far you should be able to go with out a vertical support and have minimal deflection. It's hard to say what is acceptable amount of deflection. But I would imagine you could use 2 x 4 if you did a short span. My post is based on reading what rocket and others have posted. That is my interpretation of other posts. I am in no way a rocket engineer or a journeyman wood worker. I could be wrong with my interpretation of rockets design. His design is for the average aquarium. But like I said I'm pretty sure you could get away with 2 x 4's. The only thing I would do is add green boards to all of the purple boards you add as your vertical supports on the 130" side. The reason why is to help reduce the possibility of your long 130" span twisting on you over time. Some might say this is unnecessary but it would be peace if mind for me. The green boards don't do anything as far as support goes. They just help hold pieces together and help prevent twisting and or racking of the stand.
 
jformani, you need to have center supports on a tank that long. I'm thinking two center supports would work best but thats only because it would give you three openings which are easier to cover with doors than two monster openings would be. If you go with two center supports equally spaced along the 120" length than a 2X6 top is plenty. You don't need to upgrade the legs, 2X4 is all you need.

madean, I understand your explanation. Personally, I would just turn the center supports so that the two legs in the middle sit perpendicular to the orange piece. The bottom of each purple leg would sit half on the orange and half on a blue. The yellow piece would rest directly above a corresponding blue in the bottom frame, therefore spreading the load across the width of the stand. I hope he has good support under the stands, you are talking a lot of weight.

Good luck,
RocketEngineer
 
Rocket. Thank you for the response. I didn't think about just turning the vertical supports inward to support the yellow legs. And yes he has a commercial building with concrete slab foundation. Again thank you for your response.
 
My stand is complete, but I have one corner with a small (1/2 cm) gap between the 3/4" plywood and the 2x6 cross beam. Pictures are attached. The 2x6 was bowed and I put the bow, facing up per the instructions. I could not find two 2x6s that were perfectly straight. The stand is 96" long x 36" wide x 36" high and will hold a 360 gallon 3/4" acrylic tank. What should I do about this gap? Use wood shims or not worry about it. The stand currently measures level everywhere I test it with a 4' level so I think this is just the 2x6 and the plywood being warped. I'm afraid if I sand it down this will cause it to become unlevel. Any advice is appreciated.
 

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You need a true straight edge to figure out the issue. A 6 foot level will show you where you have a crown. It could just be the plywood but it may be the lumber. If its the frame you need to smooth down the high spots, belt sander is probably the easiest but its also the most aggressive so do multiple passes and make sure that you are square to the lumber so you don't introduce a slope across the board.

HTH,
RocketEngineer
 
Hey rocket I'm trying to figure this out for my stand build. I have a 120gal 48x24 tank but want to build a stand 60"l x 25"d x 34"h I want to build something similar to this for space and versatility. I'm not the most skilled builder and I don't want to design something bad since this stand is bigger than the tank. What are your thoughts and recommendations. Thanks!
Bill
 

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I couldn't get the second pic in. I want it to be open like this. Instead of 4 doors I'd like to do 3 doors maybe even 2
 

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Hey Rocket how do you feel about this stand for a 250Gal 60x36 tank

The stand was designed with a cantilever because to support it directly from the corner would put the support directly on top of the floor drain. The cantilever is about 6 inches. Framing is all 2x6's

Some pictures of the underside of the stand.

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Hey Rocket how do you feel about this stand for a 250Gal 60x36 tank

The stand was designed with a cantilever because to support it directly from the corner would put the support directly on top of the floor drain. The cantilever is about 6 inches. Framing is all 2x6's

Some pictures of the underside of the stand.

Honestly "Fill at your own risk". Can you provide pictures of the drain location relative to the stand? Need more information before I make any suggestions.
 
Could you add angle support from the cantilever part to the vertical supports? That should give more support than nothing.
 
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