I can post some pics of the drain when I get home I can say that the concrete around the drain isn't part of the rest of the slab so I'm not sure it that would cause issues down the line. I should be able to add angle supports easily enough if you guys think it would help.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Is it a round drain? French Drain? Located in the center or at one end? If it is at one corner, I would be inclined to say just cantilever that one small section. It would be notably better than having the entire back of the tank hanging over nothing but air.
jdm18honda
Member
so i am planning a 72x30x30 peninsula around 300 gallons thinking about doing 2x8 for the top and middle bracing will be 2x6 and bottom runs will be 2x4 do you think that will be ok
I'm going to be doing an inwall 180 in my basement. Unfortunately I built the stand before seeing this thread. Fortunately I built it exactly the way rocketengineer's plans show minus one thing. The tank is a standard 180. I built the entire stand out of 2 x 6's with 3/4" ply screwed to the base and 1/2" ply on the top and front. Along with using deck screws to assemble the stand I also used liquid nails construction adhesive. I was wanting to not have to run a center verticle support on the back side of the stand for easier access to the sump. I did use one on the front side. Seeing that my top rails are 2 x 6 do you think I can get away without using one? I now see rocketengineer's plans call for a 2 x 8. My thought is that if I have to use one I can make it removable if needed. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Thanks.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
For any tank over 6' I recommend a center brace. Given how tall that tank is, you would do well to go with a 2X6 top frame as long as the center brace is exactly centered.
Plenty strong enough.
I would recommend adding some feet in the center under the 55g since you used 2X3s for the bottom. Otherwise it looks good.
Because you used 2X6s for the vertical, you have reduced the span of the top frame somewhat. This should be strong enough without a center vertical. Not my recommendation but in this case it should be OK.
jdm18honda
Member
Thanks rocket
You'll have to bare with me, I'm terrible with Sketchup, and I'm absolutely terrible on the whole 'handy DIY stuff', so I'm pretty useless on that front. I've a few dilemmas, and I'm hoping for a bit of guidance :
1) I've picked up a 48l x 18w x 30h 110G acrylic tank. I've also got a 40 breeder that I want to use as the sump (36l x 18w x 16h). My first dilemma is that I want the stand to be wide enough for the sump to go in, but the tank is 18w and I've read earlier in the thread that I should place the tank over the legs within the stand, and so that indicates I can't make the stand wider to fit the 40 breeder. Any ideas on how best to overcome this
2) I want to make the stand far longer than the tank (96"). I'd hoped to just make the initial tank stand and then create 2 smaller stands on the sides and then just use the skin to make them look the same. Anyone have any suggestions on somewhere to find plans on how to do this?
3) I've not been able to find much online about how to best skin a DIY stand. I'd like to mount panels on magnets, but honestly I've no idea where to start. Anyone have any guidance on where to find a good breakdown on how best to do that?
Thanks in advance guys!
1) I've picked up a 48l x 18w x 30h 110G acrylic tank. I've also got a 40 breeder that I want to use as the sump (36l x 18w x 16h). My first dilemma is that I want the stand to be wide enough for the sump to go in, but the tank is 18w and I've read earlier in the thread that I should place the tank over the legs within the stand, and so that indicates I can't make the stand wider to fit the 40 breeder. Any ideas on how best to overcome this
2) I want to make the stand far longer than the tank (96"). I'd hoped to just make the initial tank stand and then create 2 smaller stands on the sides and then just use the skin to make them look the same. Anyone have any suggestions on somewhere to find plans on how to do this?
3) I've not been able to find much online about how to best skin a DIY stand. I'd like to mount panels on magnets, but honestly I've no idea where to start. Anyone have any guidance on where to find a good breakdown on how best to do that?
Thanks in advance guys!
Jreed983
New member
Well with no support it would be easiest to have two doors on the stand. You could make the doors meet directly together (edge to edge) and or you can do 2 doors and give the appearance of a center brace if you want to.
To make this work you mount a small piece of trim lumber that is the same height as the doors (this door will always close first) to the back of one of the doors leaving an over hang of however much you want visible plus 1/2"-1"so that once the doors are closed the second door will over lap the added piece giving the illusion of having a center brace while not actually having one. This same general idea could be used in addition to 2 piano hinges to give the appearance of having 4 doors.
Rhodophyta
New member
Instead of doors, I just put removable panels. I was going to use magnetic latches, but temporarily put some scrap wood triangles at the bottom inside to see what they would look like in place.
jformani
New member
rocket and anyone else that can help.
I have a carpenter helping with this project. He built the stand which was level at one point. We put the tank on the stand and the left corner of the tank is not touching the styrofoam, its about 1/4 inch high and the tank being so long looks like its floating on the left side. I'm trying to figure out what is the best way to level out this side. The carpenter is thinking of jacking up the one corner and cutting new legs. I'm not sure if this will work. The one thing I was thinking was shimming in between the 3/4" plywood and the top of the stand however he uses glue to hold this on, not much glue but there s glue there.
Not sure what the recommended plan of action would be. The tank does pivot pretty easy because its rimless so getting to the ends is not that big of a deal.
Suggestions are seriously needed!
<a href="http://s1179.photobucket.com/user/jformani/media/tank_zpsc795774a.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x394/jformani/tank_zpsc795774a.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo tank_zpsc795774a.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s1179.photobucket.com/user/jformani/media/tank2_zpsac4b6e6f.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x394/jformani/tank2_zpsac4b6e6f.png" border="0" alt=" photo tank2_zpsac4b6e6f.png"/></a>
I have a carpenter helping with this project. He built the stand which was level at one point. We put the tank on the stand and the left corner of the tank is not touching the styrofoam, its about 1/4 inch high and the tank being so long looks like its floating on the left side. I'm trying to figure out what is the best way to level out this side. The carpenter is thinking of jacking up the one corner and cutting new legs. I'm not sure if this will work. The one thing I was thinking was shimming in between the 3/4" plywood and the top of the stand however he uses glue to hold this on, not much glue but there s glue there.
Not sure what the recommended plan of action would be. The tank does pivot pretty easy because its rimless so getting to the ends is not that big of a deal.
Suggestions are seriously needed!
<a href="http://s1179.photobucket.com/user/jformani/media/tank_zpsc795774a.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x394/jformani/tank_zpsc795774a.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo tank_zpsc795774a.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s1179.photobucket.com/user/jformani/media/tank2_zpsac4b6e6f.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x394/jformani/tank2_zpsac4b6e6f.png" border="0" alt=" photo tank2_zpsac4b6e6f.png"/></a>
Last edited:
Rhodophyta
New member
The stand may be level and square and the tank may be out of square. You have to go with the tank. Add leveling compound, and/or put a rim of 1 x 1/2 wood where the tank edge is supported under the Styrofoam and then sand/plane it down to fit the tank.
Rhodophyta
New member
If the bottom is floating, it would be OK. If your tank walls float on the bottom instead you need full support, and would cover the whole top with wood slats to be planed to fit the tank bottom. Leveling compound compresses differently than wood so a composite would not be a good idea with floating tank walls.
