DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Do the vertical legs have to be under the 4 corners of the tank? I wasn't to make the stand wider and longer than the tank itself. Can I move the legs out about 4" in either direction. 48x18x24 90 gallon
 
I have a 48x28x24 tank being built, ~140 gallons. Would I be safe doing 2x6 for top frame and 2x4 for bottom and vertical pieces? Is there a calculator I can use for this?
 
Do the vertical legs have to be under the 4 corners of the tank? I wasn't to make the stand wider and longer than the tank itself. Can I move the legs out about 4" in either direction. 48x18x24 90 gallon

What are you trying to achieve? Making the stand 54" isn't as big a deal as having the tank sitting between the red boards would be. If you just want space behind the tank for plumbing or to have a wider sump, that's an option but it would still require the legs to be under the corners at the minimum.

I have a 48x28x24 tank being built, ~140 gallons. Would I be safe doing 2x6 for top frame and 2x4 for bottom and vertical pieces? Is there a calculator I can use for this?

Those sizes will be plenty strong for a tank that size. I don't know of any online calculators so I developed my own. Its basically a beam bending calculator with the wood strength values used in place of metals. My criteria is no more than 1/8" of deflection for a distributed load.
 
Those sizes will be plenty strong for a tank that size. I don't know of any online calculators so I developed my own. Its basically a beam bending calculator with the wood strength values used in place of metals. My criteria is no more than 1/8" of deflection for a distributed load.


So this design would be ok for a 48x28x24?

gYLPjZt.jpg
 
So I finished building my stand (will post pics once it's stained) and attached 3/4" thick plywood on top. When dragging my level over the surface of the plywood, I notice only 3 areas in the middle section of the plywood with a gap (no more than 3" wide) that I can barely push an index card through. Should I be concerned about this? At this point, I have to think the plywood itself is causing this....since the 2x6 stand frame was level and coplanar.

I will be placing a custom built Miracles eurobraced tank on it (under foam) and it was constructed with plastic trim around the bottom. The trim on the aquarium does result in the bottom glass panel being slight elevated, maybe by a 1/16" to 1/8" but still requires foam underneath per the manufacturer.
 
I just bought a 450g (96"x36"x30") and am unsure if i can span the 96" without using 2x10's? Could I double the 2x8's? or something else? The overflow is external so I am not worried about those interfering...
 
Hi RocketEngineer, I'm about to build this for my 55gal tank. The intent is to be able to use it for the 55 and then re-use it for either a 75 or 90 down the road. I intend to drill the back of an older, non-tempered 55 and run the pipes down behind the tank and then replace it with a 75 or 90 that is drilled on the bottom.

Do you think this design is strong enough for all three tanks? The stand is all 2x4s and 1/2" plywood.

standcolor2.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
standcolor1.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
standcolor3.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
standcolor3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi RocketEngineer, I'm about to build this for my 55gal tank. The intent is to be able to use it for the 55 and then re-use it for either a 75 or 90 down the road. I intend to drill the back of an older, non-tempered 55 and run the pipes down behind the tank and then replace it with a 75 or 90 that is drilled on the bottom.

Do you think this design is strong enough for all three tanks? The stand is all 2x4s and 1/2" plywood.

standcolor1.jpg


standcolor3.jpg


Untitled2.jpg


Untitled3.jpg
 
I am getting a 210 next week. I am going to start building the stand this week. Should I use a 2x8 for the long span(72 inches)? And can I used 2x4 for the rest of it?
 
You would do better buying the 75g now.

Would love to do that, believe me I would. The mrs got sticker shock just from buying the plywood, 2x4s and trim. I may just run the un-drilled 55 with a hob skimmer for the near future and upgrade to a 90 next year. I have a couple extra 55s in storage and at least one of them should be non-tempered since they were made a long time ago. I tried the polarized sunglasses and lcd screen trick but can't seem to see any distortion even on the bottom panels, will have to find a better way to see the distortion.
 
I am getting a 210 next week. I am going to start building the stand this week. Should I use a 2x8 for the long span(72 inches)? And can I used 2x4 for the rest of it?

That is how I built the stand for my 220. Use a 2x8 for the top 72x24 frame and 2x4 for the rest of it.
 
I am building a stand for a 180, using 2x8 box for the top, but I want to add a 2x4 brace for a drawer stack on one end... I tried to read the entire thread for the answer, but got lost about 40 pages in..:headwallblue:

Is there a way to add a 2x4 brace without using pocket screws? It wouldn't be carrying any serious load, but would be the frame for the doors and such eventually.
 
I am building a stand for a 180, using 2x8 box for the top, but I want to add a 2x4 brace for a drawer stack on one end... I tried to read the entire thread for the answer, but got lost about 40 pages in..:headwallblue:

Is there a way to add a 2x4 brace without using pocket screws? It wouldn't be carrying any serious load, but would be the frame for the doors and such eventually.

If it is not carrying any load or weight and is cosmetic then just screw it in there anyway you can, pocket screws not needed.
 
Thanks to RocketEngineer and everyone else on this thread for all the great ideas for my stand build. Just need to stain it and I'm done. Then I need to work on the canopy.

Here are some pics






 
I am having a hard time trying to decide how tall to make the stand for my 210 gallon. For a tank that size, what height have people used? I am thinking about 38 inches but I really don't know
 
Back
Top