I built the stand for my 210 at 40" high. I wanted enough room underneath, I had to be able to move it from where it was built to where it is setup, and there is a small bar in front of it that I wanted to see the tank over the top of.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
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I built the stand for my 210 at 40" high. I wanted enough room underneath, I had to be able to move it from where it was built to where it is setup, and there is a small bar in front of it that I wanted to see the tank over the top of.
Martini5788
New member
Ok I'll do some measurements and see how 40 would look. That sounds like a good idea. What size sump are you using in 40 inch tall stands?
borderreef
New member
I just went through a lot of this thread, but did not go through it all. I just picked up a 40g breeder for my downsizing, and want to go with 1x4 lumber, pocket screws. Is anyone else using 1x's?
GilliganReef
New member
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
I pretty much built my stand using rocket engineer skeleton then added a bar top to it. Still need to add my handles to my doors.
I pretty much built my stand using rocket engineer skeleton then added a bar top to it. Still need to add my handles to my doors.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Nice job folks. Keep the pictures coming.
DamonG
New member
My quick project for my 180..
I have a false and removable skin for my system, so I simply needed to build the frame structure. I only need to build the middle frame support(removable) fir the front, which will allow me to slide the sump in. I think I have 2 to 3 hours into it. It was actually very fast, and only slowed by the need to charge my drill..
72.5"x24.5"x32"
I have a false and removable skin for my system, so I simply needed to build the frame structure. I only need to build the middle frame support(removable) fir the front, which will allow me to slide the sump in. I think I have 2 to 3 hours into it. It was actually very fast, and only slowed by the need to charge my drill..
72.5"x24.5"x32"
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DamonG
New member
Just curious, and just thought about it. The front span.. If I wanted to keep it wide open, is there a way to add support to that side? Or should, our would I be good with the 2x4 only? I also am considering doing two bracing supports, but offsetting them..
Any suggestions?
DamonG
New member
Solved it by creating my own pocket screws. It was much easier than I thought, and now the brace is removable, in order to get the sump in. But I still will have the support that I need to sleep good at night.. [emoji4] [emoji4] [emoji4]
In the earlier rec, you mention 2x6 as okay for 72" long tanks of 125-150g, but this posts lists 2x8.
I just got the 2x6s cut and about to assemble.
Is it crucial for me to use 2x8s?
I just got the 2x6s cut and about to assemble.
Is it crucial for me to use 2x8s?
soulpatch
New member
I need to build a stand for my 93 cube coming and I need the interior of the stand to hold my 30" sump coming so thus the interior should be roughly 30.5x30.5. I am torn on 2 build types.
The design I want to mimic d2mini's cube found here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1757436&highlight=d2mini+cube
I want the 3 large doors on each side. That said I see 2 options.
Safe and cheaper but bigger stand route:
I build the 2x4 frame which would be roughly a 33x33 cube. The green pieces in the original design I would forgo for triangle pieces at top and bottom to save space. I would then skin with .5 thick birch. Going this route I would be able to have the framing to hold all the weight but the stand itself would be roughly 34x34 when I add in the .5 skin and then the .5 trim and doors. not horrible and would allow me to have the 2x4s to drill into to hand stuff. Would need to go slightly taller to not lose the space with the cross bracing.
More expensive but potentially tougher build:
The other option is to buy inch thick maple and do the stand that way. I would still put in corner bracing for stability. Going this route would allow my stand to be 33x33 with the trim so not a huge space savings but the stand would still have those doors and thus would have large open areas. Thus the weight of the tank would be on 1 inch think wood in the corners roughly 2 inches wide. This concerns me slightly but I could be overthinking it considering either the hickory or maple I am looking to use are such a hard wood.
Thoughts? Probably leaning towards the 2x4 construction and skinning since I have done that before.
I know where to get hardwood around me but where are you guys getting the cheaper cabinet grade birch? I dont want the sandwich plywood birch as the edges would show the different layers at the cuts.
The design I want to mimic d2mini's cube found here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1757436&highlight=d2mini+cube
I want the 3 large doors on each side. That said I see 2 options.
Safe and cheaper but bigger stand route:
I build the 2x4 frame which would be roughly a 33x33 cube. The green pieces in the original design I would forgo for triangle pieces at top and bottom to save space. I would then skin with .5 thick birch. Going this route I would be able to have the framing to hold all the weight but the stand itself would be roughly 34x34 when I add in the .5 skin and then the .5 trim and doors. not horrible and would allow me to have the 2x4s to drill into to hand stuff. Would need to go slightly taller to not lose the space with the cross bracing.
More expensive but potentially tougher build:
The other option is to buy inch thick maple and do the stand that way. I would still put in corner bracing for stability. Going this route would allow my stand to be 33x33 with the trim so not a huge space savings but the stand would still have those doors and thus would have large open areas. Thus the weight of the tank would be on 1 inch think wood in the corners roughly 2 inches wide. This concerns me slightly but I could be overthinking it considering either the hickory or maple I am looking to use are such a hard wood.
Thoughts? Probably leaning towards the 2x4 construction and skinning since I have done that before.
I know where to get hardwood around me but where are you guys getting the cheaper cabinet grade birch? I dont want the sandwich plywood birch as the edges would show the different layers at the cuts.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Being less than 36" on a side, there is nothing to prevent you from using the 1X4 maple (which should be 3/4" X 3-1/2" btw) as both the show surfaces and the structural members. Maple is plenty strong for that kind of application and takes well most joinery techniques. I would have a plywood top with a solid wood edging (the edge is a 1X2 board on my stand).
HTH,
HTH,
soulpatch
New member
So use the 1x4 for the pieces in the diagram (I would use corner bracing instead of the green pieces). Doors would then be 28x26 (hxl) (stand is to be 34" tall x 32" wide and thus this would give me 1/2 around the doors. Trim the edges the same height round the doors with piece roughly 2 11/16" to allow for mitered edges. The top plate would be surround 1/2 plywood top and be mitered as well on the edges to mimic look of d2minis.
Right or am I leaving something out?
What filler do you guys use for hardwoods to ensure it looks seamless? I want the look of a single piece of wood for each side like a nice furniture piece would give.
Right or am I leaving something out?
What filler do you guys use for hardwoods to ensure it looks seamless? I want the look of a single piece of wood for each side like a nice furniture piece would give.
shred5
Premium Member
Question?
I have done several stands and I always uses 1x4's... For vertical support I double up 1x4 by gluing and screwing them together Basically it make a (2x4). The back 1x4 is longer so I can screw the back one into the bottom and top frame... The front 1x4 is between the top and bottom from frame .. I have always made my top and bottom frames 1x4.. I also skin them and put a piece of plywood across the top.. I hope you get what I am trying to say.
Do you think that is would be enough for larger than 75 gallon tanks.
The top frame should not matter if it is supported in the middle front/back. With supports there it should not bow and the top plywood should add support and take most of the weight.. I am thinking 125 or 120.. Do you think this is still fine with 1x4's?
I have a ton of them left that's why I am thinking of doing it this way...
BigJohnny
Active member
Hey there folks,
I am currently building a 20g high stand. It's framed by 2x4s and wrapped in premium shop grade blondewood plywood.
I cut the plywood a little unevenly and after joining the corners there is some overhang, how do you recommend evening out the corners?
Also, what should I use to attach the remaining plywood to the top and front of the stand to minimize surface irregularity (from the screws or nails). Same question for some moulding.
I put the framing together with #9, 2 1/2" deck screws but obviously don't think that is necessary/very appealing.
Thanks!
I am currently building a 20g high stand. It's framed by 2x4s and wrapped in premium shop grade blondewood plywood.
I cut the plywood a little unevenly and after joining the corners there is some overhang, how do you recommend evening out the corners?
Also, what should I use to attach the remaining plywood to the top and front of the stand to minimize surface irregularity (from the screws or nails). Same question for some moulding.
I put the framing together with #9, 2 1/2" deck screws but obviously don't think that is necessary/very appealing.
Thanks!
Rwiesner20
New member
How is it going everyone. i have a 55 gallon dt tank and plan on using this template to build my stand. I am also making a few small adjustments just for me. But I was wondering if I follow the template when I wrap it with 1/4 plywood would that be strong enough to cut the cabinets doors out of and then secure the doors to the plywood.
shred5
Premium Member
Hmm no answer, this thread has got slow...
Anyway I think you meant in your little chart I quoted above a span with no support. With supports it really should not matter I am guessing. I am thinking of 3 additional supports for the span. With enough supports there should be no bowing.
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