DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
geekengineer
Member
Yeah so if your sump is 49" wide then at least you would need the stand to be say at the least 49" + (2 * (3.5-1.5)) = 53" wide to fit a 49" sump in the bottom. That's because the 2x4s are taking away some of the width available. otherwise you do like me and put it in from the bottom but I was just about one inch short of getting enough to get it in the back.
You will have the same issue with the depth as well. you will need more than what what your tank size is.
Last edited:
touchingstoves
New member
Thank you for guiding me in the right direction. Are my other calculations reasonable?
geekengineer
Member
Well I think so -- No warranty implied hehe. I assume your OK with the 30" tall. Note that you will only have .5 inch on either side of the sump the way it is now. Way it stands you got 15.5 inch deep sump and 16.5 inches deep on the inside. Not sure if that is too tight for you or not. If you want some more room you may want to make it a bit deeper.
touchingstoves
New member
How much you wider and deeper can I go before it compromises the tank above it? It's a heavy tank! I really want to have room for plumbing, electrical box and replacing socks etc.
Not sure where I can adjust the depth. Couldn't I just add 6" to each side? Maybe I'm not seeing what you are. Help!
GingerHawk5917
New member
Hey guys my first post and first attempt at building a stand! I have a 72x24x24" tank holding 180G.... I want to use Rockets design with a few alterations...I am trying to make the stand 73(L)x25(W)x36(H) -
1. I would like to use 6"x2" top frame instead of 8"x2"
2. I will use 6"x2" for the bottom frame as well, I understand this may be overkill.
3. I will put 2 "width supports" between the front and rear length beams
4. I will then skin sides, rear and top with 1/2" ply
Will this hold the tank?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
1. I would like to use 6"x2" top frame instead of 8"x2"
2. I will use 6"x2" for the bottom frame as well, I understand this may be overkill.
3. I will put 2 "width supports" between the front and rear length beams
4. I will then skin sides, rear and top with 1/2" ply
Will this hold the tank?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
geekengineer
Member
Lol hopefully nobody mistaking me for other rocket engineer guy. I can't say I am an expert at any of this I know enough to be dangerous and I trying to help the best I know how. But yeah I assume at some point your going to have to beef the design up if you start making it bigger. You already using 2x6 for the long span lengths so my best guess is you be OK as long as it isn't excessively longer, and adding more depth isn't probably going to affect you as much as width.
However I'm not an expert especially on larger tanks or mechanical design ( Im an electrical engineer lol) nor can I help with everything your asking. I know a little bit about woodworking but I sure others know much more than I do here. Usually these things get a bit over designed anyways but I just not sure.
I am sorry.geekengineer
Member
Well I hope this will do I was going for the pine board old style look or what ever you call it have a liking to it. The doors could be re-done at some point but I'm happy with it its much better than what I have done in the past which is just thrown together wood crap and no stain lol. This is my first time trying something more decent. Its going to be a tight fit below I guess the draw back of having a similar sized tank and sump and not quite compensating enough.
touchingstoves
New member
Lol hopefully nobody mistaking me for other rocket engineer guy. I can't say I am an expert at any of this I know enough to be dangerous and I trying to help the best I know how. But yeah I assume at some point your going to have to beef the design up if you start making it bigger. You already using 2x6 for the long span lengths so my best guess is you be OK as long as it isn't excessively longer, and adding more depth isn't probably going to affect you as much as width.
However I'm not an expert especially on larger tanks or mechanical design ( Im an electrical engineer lol) nor can I help with everything your asking. I know a little bit about woodworking but I sure others know much more than I do here. Usually these things get a bit over designed anyways but I just not sure.
No worries! Thanks for giving me an opinion! I really will like to do the tank stand tomorrow! Since you did make a stand. To even out the stand while building it, do you sand down the wood to make it straight? Or do just use the grips?
geekengineer
Member
I sanded both sanded down the edges and used clamps. Well mainly sanded it flush after I put it together. It wasn't perfect. I also used that jig to put the screws in at an angle (can't think of the name atm) 'box end jig' I think. That way I could hide the screws putting it all together.
I had to sand down the top pretty crazy cause I tried to use merged planks of boards instead of plywood. In hindsight plywood would probably been easier. I was going for the look of it and hadn't thought about the level being as much of a worry at first. I wish I had a planer but couldn't feel like justifying the expense yet of getting one.
If your going for just wrapping the base stand in plywood then wouldn't have to care about where you put the screws. that would make it a bit easier probably, but I was going for a different look so I didn't want to wrap it.
I had to sand down the top pretty crazy cause I tried to use merged planks of boards instead of plywood. In hindsight plywood would probably been easier. I was going for the look of it and hadn't thought about the level being as much of a worry at first. I wish I had a planer but couldn't feel like justifying the expense yet of getting one.
If your going for just wrapping the base stand in plywood then wouldn't have to care about where you put the screws. that would make it a bit easier probably, but I was going for a different look so I didn't want to wrap it.
Last edited:
GingerHawk5917
New member
Hey guys my first post and first attempt at building a stand! I have a 72x24x24" tank holding 180G.... I want to use Rockets design with a few alterations...I am trying to make the stand 73(L)x25(W)x36(H) -
1. I would like to use 6"x2" top frame instead of 8"x2"
2. I will use 6"x2" for the bottom frame as well, I understand this may be overkill.
3. I will put 2 "width supports" between the front and rear length beams
4. I will then skin sides, rear and top with 1/2" ply
Will this hold the tank?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
1. I would like to use 6"x2" top frame instead of 8"x2"
2. I will use 6"x2" for the bottom frame as well, I understand this may be overkill.
3. I will put 2 "width supports" between the front and rear length beams
4. I will then skin sides, rear and top with 1/2" ply
Will this hold the tank?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Similar to gingerhawk I am building a stand for a 72" tank. Not sure if buying a 180 or 220. I have read many of the pages of this thread but seem to continually get off track on someone else's build. Couple questions:
1) I plan to use 2x6 top frame, plan to add 2 additional verts on front and back about 12" in from the ends, reducing the span to 5' or so. Are the 2x6's ok in this application?
2) I see variations in length and width of 1/2" or so. Should I build the stand to 72" or 73"?
3) I plan to install plywood on the top and bottom. Is there any reason not to install the bottom plywood under the bottom frame ie the plywood will be in contact with the floor? Is this ok? The top plywood I plan to extend beyond the frame to cover the skin.
4) I noticed that the original drawing shows the joint formed by the frames aligned with the joint of the verts. I am considering overlapping the joints as I think this would help disperse the load to the verts.
5) are 2x4's sufficient for a 220 gallon tank? Is there any reason I can't use 2x6's? I just can't get comfortable using 2x4's to support 2000+ pounds.
6) do I need to cross brace to prevent racking? My skin is going to be tongue and groove cedar to match other woodwork in the room. I do not believe this will provide the bracing against racking that plywood would.
Scott
1) I plan to use 2x6 top frame, plan to add 2 additional verts on front and back about 12" in from the ends, reducing the span to 5' or so. Are the 2x6's ok in this application?
2) I see variations in length and width of 1/2" or so. Should I build the stand to 72" or 73"?
3) I plan to install plywood on the top and bottom. Is there any reason not to install the bottom plywood under the bottom frame ie the plywood will be in contact with the floor? Is this ok? The top plywood I plan to extend beyond the frame to cover the skin.
4) I noticed that the original drawing shows the joint formed by the frames aligned with the joint of the verts. I am considering overlapping the joints as I think this would help disperse the load to the verts.
5) are 2x4's sufficient for a 220 gallon tank? Is there any reason I can't use 2x6's? I just can't get comfortable using 2x4's to support 2000+ pounds.
6) do I need to cross brace to prevent racking? My skin is going to be tongue and groove cedar to match other woodwork in the room. I do not believe this will provide the bracing against racking that plywood would.
Scott
Last edited:
geekengineer
Member
looks great.. I love how pocket screws work first time I tried them on my stand and it makes it work out better.
Reef Mortician
New member
Hope your adding 2x4 too the side rails. Your corners need more support.Just wanted to thank Rocket, pretty happy with the way this turned out...
DarthReefer27
New member
I thought the ones rocket said weren't needed were the short ones just used to screw the vertical supports to. i think you still need the two vertical supports in each of the 4 corners but i could be wrong.
