DIY Stands Template and Calculator

While correct, that stand currently has almost no front-to-back stability. If I were to push on the front of it, the whole thing would collapse backwards given how the legs are oriented and attached. If two more legs are added so that they make an "L" then the whole thing will be significantly more stable.
 
Fair enough. I will be putting in a 2x6 cross member from top center to back center along with 2-3 2x4 cross members on the bottom to support the floor. I figured that and the side/back paneling would do it.

Looks like the side supports are going in as well now..
 
Fair enough. I will be putting in a 2x6 cross member from top center to back center along with 2-3 2x4 cross members on the bottom to support the floor. I figured that and the side/back paneling would do it.

Looks like the side supports are going in as well now..

the way i see it, if extra supports don't hinder appearance or accessibility, then the more the better. there is no such thing as too strong. that is the approach i will be taking when i start my stand for my new 120.
 
This same design can be used for acrylic tanks correct? I read somewhere that acrylic tanks need more support. Obviously they're flat on the bottom but how "more support"?

I'm doing a 180 gallon acrylic.... thinking of going with 2x6's for the top and using a center brace 2x4 legs.

Is this not fine? Or 2x8 top...


3/4" plywood top.


For the sump.... 40-75 gallon with 3/4" plywood on bottom... should hold..
 
This same design can be used for acrylic tanks correct? I read somewhere that acrylic tanks need more support. Obviously they're flat on the bottom but how "more support"?

I'm doing a 180 gallon acrylic.... thinking of going with 2x6's for the top and using a center brace 2x4 legs.

Is this not fine? Or 2x8 top...


3/4" plywood top.


For the sump.... 40-75 gallon with 3/4" plywood on bottom... should hold..
More support means the stand needs a top layer of plywood to fully support the acrylic bottom. With glass, you don't need to support the bottom, so the tank can just rest on the frame. Every other aspect of the design remains the same. Your good to go.
 
So I read a few pages (1-10) and decided to build this type of stand for my 180 I just got. I have built many stands before just usually way overbuilt with 4x4s and 2x6s. This time I used 2x4s on the top and bottom frames and 2x6s as the legs. Double 2x6s on each corner as well as in the middle of the 6ft length. I know I did it differently from what most have done here (2x6 as running length), but it is what I had around. Do you guys think this will be supportive enough?
 
More support means the stand needs a top layer of plywood to fully support the acrylic bottom. With glass, you don't need to support the bottom, so the tank can just rest on the frame. Every other aspect of the design remains the same. Your good to go.

Ah okay - we're on the same page then. Perfect.
 
So I read a few pages (1-10) and decided to build this type of stand for my 180 I just got. I have built many stands before just usually way overbuilt with 4x4s and 2x6s. This time I used 2x4s on the top and bottom frames and 2x6s as the legs. Double 2x6s on each corner as well as in the middle of the 6ft length. I know I did it differently from what most have done here (2x6 as running length), but it is what I had around. Do you guys think this will be supportive enough?

You don't need 2X6s for the legs, 2X4s are all you need for the uprights no matter the size of the tank. If its what you had lying around, ok but its not required by any means.

With a center brace in each 6ft span, you have plenty of support.
 
Hey guys how does my stand look? Please let me know if i'm missing something!

do i screw the the inside (4) support to the top and bottom frame? or do i just screw it to the (4) vertical supports?

its 36x24x35
 
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Seems like the place to ask......just built my stand still have to skin the sides but before I do should 8 be concerned with this? The front 2x6 has a slight warp in it at the end didn't notice.till yesterday

Note in the first picture the left side of the photo is actually the top of the stand, and the top of the photo is the front face of the stand.

Thanks

David
 

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I need advice on the stand that I got from other reefer.
It will hold 190 gallon eurobraced top, no black trim on the bottom.
Should I add additional center brace 2"x4" (front to back) and 2 add additional 2"x4" vertical ? since my tank is not have black trim, should I add a piece of 1/2" plywood and 1/4" foam?

Or my stand is okay with the way it is and 1/2" foam?
THANKS
top down

here is the tank 5'x2'x2.5', no black trim.
 
I just completed by stand for a 180 with 2x8s and 2x4s following the instructions without glue.

How did everyone get the top 100% level to the tank rim? (Marineland 180G) All the wood we found and used had slight variations. I am planning to sand some of the smaller imperfections, but all wood seems to bow away from the tank.

Edit, more details since i've read 50% of this.

- Tank is empty
- corners are the high points, long rails have the down bow
- no plywood on tank yet.

Should I use a planner or hope for the best or ?

Thank you
 
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It doesnt matter since the mdf warps and loses integrity that you would not want it as part of structure or under your tank. Under tank it would warp when hit with water to have carious pressure points which can be bad for a tank.
If for some reason you need this, use MDO instead of fiberboard. It has a waterproof plywood core. I have seen pieces of it submerged unpainted in a 5000 gallon saltwater tank for a year test period. They still looked new.
 
So this may have been asked buy not sure. What is everyone using to secure the plywood skin? Nails? Or screws?
 
I'm gonna skin my frame tomorrow. I figured everyone glues the other decoratives onto them..like paneling or borders/trims.
 
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