DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[mnkykng77]

RocketEngineer: I'm planning on building a stand for a peninsula style tank. If I use 2x6 for the top frame, can I have a vertical support about 1/3 of the way across versus right in the middle? Reason being as my sump will be about 40-44" and want to be able to take it out if I ever need to and to have more open space to access the sump. Also for the bottom frame instead of using support beams to prevent flexing/twisting can I a piece plywood screwed to the bottom of frame? I'm hoping this will create a mini pool once lined in case my sump overflows or there is a minor leak. Here are the tank dimensions;

Tank: 60"(l)x30"(w)x26"(h)
Stand Height: 40-42"

Thanks for your help.

 

[Conor_K]

Like regular wood glue? Or something like super glue?

I'm going to use wood glue. I'm hoping i wont need any screws at all. We'll see how it goes. I'll be skinning mine sunday.

 

[MicroMan419]

I used a 16gauge nail gun ($28 at harbor freight) along with wood glue when skinned the frame. An 18gauge nails for the trim work plus wood glue. The nail marks easily fill with wood filler

 

[ReyR]

finished mine thanks to the plans, got the tank on and we are currently cycling.

This was my first time ever building something and i don't have a table saw to build doors so i just went with a large removable panel held on by magnet clasps.

I also built the stand a little deeper and left room for a 6" ledge to tile and i really like it.

baseboard corner and top molding as well. stained and varnished, its only 34 inches tall, If i could do it again, I'd go taller.

I love the door idea. I need to look into doing that.

 

[homebrewdude]

Hope your adding 2x4 too the side rails. Your corners need more support.

I agree. Add the supports. Might not be needed for the tank weight, but would help when people push on the front of the tank.

Similar to gingerhawk I am building a stand for a 72" tank. Not sure if buying a 180 or 220. I have read many of the pages of this thread but seem to continually get off track on someone else's build. Couple questions:
1) I plan to use 2x6 top frame, plan to add 2 additional verts on front and back about 12" in from the ends, reducing the span to 5' or so. Are the 2x6's ok in this application?
2) I see variations in length and width of 1/2" or so. Should I build the stand to 72" or 73"?
3) I plan to install plywood on the top and bottom. Is there any reason not to install the bottom plywood under the bottom frame ie the plywood will be in contact with the floor? Is this ok? The top plywood I plan to extend beyond the frame to cover the skin.
4) I noticed that the original drawing shows the joint formed by the frames aligned with the joint of the verts. I am considering overlapping the joints as I think this would help disperse the load to the verts.
5) are 2x4's sufficient for a 220 gallon tank? Is there any reason I can't use 2x6's? I just can't get comfortable using 2x4's to support 2000+ pounds.
6) do I need to cross brace to prevent racking? My skin is going to be tongue and groove cedar to match other woodwork in the room. I do not believe this will provide the bracing against racking that plywood would.

Scott

 

[KafudaFish]

Is the build on page 1 of the original thread still the recommended one to use or is there an updated version?

Thank you.

 

[ReyR]

It's what I just used.

 

[KafudaFish]

Thank you.

 

[ReyR]

Just need to do the doors. Making them, and that is the part I've been dreading the most. You know...if they match up correctly.

 

[ReyR]

 

[Rtankster]

Just need to do the doors. Making them, and that is the part I've been dreading the most. You know...if they match up correctly.

You can always buy pre-made doors....

 

[shred5]

Just need to do the doors. Making them, and that is the part I've been dreading the most. You know...if they match up correctly.

Cabinet doors are cheap on ebay. But they are easy to make if you have a router with tongue and groove bit or tables saw.

 

[Jscwerve]

Have to say thanks to all that have posted their stands in this thread. I've been out of tanks for a long time and I'm just getting back into it. I've used this thread as some inspiration on my build.

I finally went to the store and got materials today. Actually planned on skinning this in birch and staining it grey. Then at the store I came across this rocky mountain beetle kill pine tongue and groove and fell in love with it. The grey and blue look amazing and it doesn't really show in the pictures it's dark in my garage.

This is how far I got this afternoon/evening. Had some poorly milled boards so I have to go back to the store tomorrow for that and some hardware to make the entire front removable but secure. Also router and attach trim around the base. Started with a basic 2x4 construction as most of us do. No vertical center brace as the tank is only 60 gallons.

 

[kwassing]

Looks great

 

[woodnaquanut]

@Jscwerve
Cool looking wood. That will be beautiful with a clear finish. Waterborne poly will not add any yellow color.

It's great the wood is used for something. There certainly is lots of beetle kill in CO!

 

[Jscwerve]

Finally finished it up today after work. Had some trim around the top that I didn't like so I changed it. Made the entire front easily removable by using a french cleat type of fastener. Two of the pictures are before the top trim went on, but they show the concept the best.

@woodnaquanut: Clear poly is next on the agenda. Hoping the better half takes on that project as I have to travel the rest of the week for work. If not, it will merely be yet another week before this tank gets wet.

Pay no attention to the tank, it needs a very good cleaning and I'm waiting until after I do the plumbing to clean it really well.

 

[Jscwerve]

I just noticed when looking at the pictures, the stand looks like it's floating because I used 16 hammer in felt pads so the stand does not sit on the floor directly. I just installed that floor myself about 6 months ago and I didn't figure I needed and damage from moving or anything like that.

 

[boostedvq]

I'm sure it's been covered within the thread, however I wanted to double-check and confirm before I redo my stand.

If I use 2 x 6 for the top frame, can I get away without using center braces? My tank is 48 x 30 x 30, and sump is 48 x 22 x 18, so I want full access inside the stand without navigating a center brace.

 

[Chrisq0904]

How's this for a 150g rimless? Stand is 60x24x36 and the tank is 60x24x24. I plan to skin with 1/2" birch.

It's all 2x6 wood except for the the cross pieces on top which are 2x4.

Was also thinking of gluing a corner piece like this, would it make any difference?

Thank you in advanced!
-Chris

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Just make sure that when you lay the plywood on top that it makes contact all the way around, and is flat on top. If the plywood is flat then you know you need to shim gaps. Or plane off the top so that the plywood is flush when you lay it down. That was the most time consuming part for me, I have a stand similar to yours for a 144 rimless that was doubled-up 2x6 crossbraces, it was a PITA to get the top brace flat and in contact all around, but it's important for longevity