bhbell
New member
In this case it would be in place of foam and not part of the structure.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
In this case it would be in place of foam and not part of the structure.
There are a lot of great looking stand builds in this thread! It inspired me to pull out my table saw and build a stand for my new BioCube 29. It only took one sheet of Cabinet Grade Plywood and we had it finished in a weekend. The only thing left is to mount the door.
I used the dimensions of the Coralife stand as a starting point for my design and lowered it slightly so that we could look directly into the cube at eye level while seated on our couch.
I am not an expert draftsman but I have also included the basic plans that I drew up that someone could use for their own build. I used adjustable feet which worked fine for the cube, but one could also build a rectangular base from the same sheet of plywood and use shims to level it.
Datos and Rabbits to receive the sides and back:
Before adding the stain and polyurethane
Completed, the tank is now cycling, I just need to mount the door
Here are the plans, if anyone is interested I can post or send a PDF version.
I was a lot of fun building it with my son. Let me know what you think!
I used the dimensions of the Coralife stand as a starting point for my design and lowered it slightly so that we could look directly into the cube at eye level while seated on our couch.
I am not an expert draftsman but I have also included the basic plans that I drew up that someone could use for their own build. I used adjustable feet which worked fine for the cube, but one could also build a rectangular base from the same sheet of plywood and use shims to level it.
Datos and Rabbits to receive the sides and back:
Before adding the stain and polyurethane
Completed, the tank is now cycling, I just need to mount the door
Here are the plans, if anyone is interested I can post or send a PDF version.
I was a lot of fun building it with my son. Let me know what you think!
shred5
Premium Member
Looks nice... Dato should make it nice and strong and not allow shifting or leaning.....
fltekdiver
New member
I've built several stands using this calculator, thank you for posting this thread
I'm now starting up a 90G Drilled Reef
I bought a 40G Breeder yesterday from Petco for $1 per gallon sale
Problem is, the main DT tank is 18"1-1/2 wide, and the sump is the same width
How would I make a stand now to accommodate the same width sump?
I was thinking 2x4 and skin, and leaving the back open, no center brace, and making the bottom wide enough to support the sump and push the sump towards the rear more so I can close the doors?
Lastly , I always get stuck making the doors, so I never end up making them
Is their a thread to show how make doors?
Thanks for your help
I'm now starting up a 90G Drilled Reef
I bought a 40G Breeder yesterday from Petco for $1 per gallon sale
Problem is, the main DT tank is 18"1-1/2 wide, and the sump is the same width
How would I make a stand now to accommodate the same width sump?
I was thinking 2x4 and skin, and leaving the back open, no center brace, and making the bottom wide enough to support the sump and push the sump towards the rear more so I can close the doors?
Lastly , I always get stuck making the doors, so I never end up making them
Is their a thread to show how make doors?
Thanks for your help
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
The layout I find easiest is below:
The gap behind the display lets the sump have enough room plus all your plumbing and wires now have a space to run.
I don't know of a thread showing how. The more detailed the door, the more expensive the tools needed to produce them. The simplest method I've used is 1X surrounding a central 1/2" plywood core. The surround is joined together with pocket screws while the plywood is kept in place using biscuits. I used this concept for the panels on my 125g hood build.
Here's a link to how I did it.
HTH,
fltekdiver
New member
The layout I find easiest is below:
The gap behind the display lets the sump have enough room plus all your plumbing and wires now have a space to run.
I don't know of a thread showing how. The more detailed the door, the more expensive the tools needed to produce them. The simplest method I've used is 1X surrounding a central 1/2" plywood core. The surround is joined together with pocket screws while the plywood is kept in place using biscuits. I used this concept for the panels on my 125g hood build.
Here's a link to how I did it.
HTH,
Perfect thank you
Just to clarify, the diagram show the stand the same as the food print of the tank to support the tank. Then the bottom and tops just are a little longer looks like, but main supports just under the tank
What if I wanted to add a foot
Just make a support under the runs ?
Redbellyjx
New member
Tonight I am going to start building a stand for an shallow 80 gallon (4x2'x16"H)
I will be using 6x1 for the top bracing and the up rights, and 4x1 for the bottom.
The corner upright pieces will be 6x1 in "L" shape. I will have 6 x 1 back center brace
My main question..... do i need a front center brace? I want to leave the sump area as open and accessible as possible.
I will be using 6x1 for the top bracing and the up rights, and 4x1 for the bottom.
The corner upright pieces will be 6x1 in "L" shape. I will have 6 x 1 back center brace
My main question..... do i need a front center brace? I want to leave the sump area as open and accessible as possible.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
That's the idea. Support under all four corners of the tank.
Redbellyjx
New member
just my preference. I like working with the 1x material better. They are generally straighter, and I hate picking through the pile looking for good 2x4s. also I think the 1x material gives a better finished look.
stingeragent
New member
Rocket, just built a stand for my 125. Ran into the problem where its not quite level and has a wobble. So if I push down on the right front side, the back left side will come off the ground a few mm's. If I push back left, same happens to the front right. I stood on one corner, and had my gf stand on the other and it seemed to press it down so that all was touching. Is this gonna cause too much stress when I have 1000 lbs of water on top of it?
chatyak
New member
Sounds like wood flex/stress from being screwed together. Will rest out once a tank is on it and level. I'll let rocket chime in.
FlyingFishSKYw
Member
Wow, this is a HUGE thread with TONS of great information and inspiration! Thanks to RocketEngineer for helping us all out!
I'm designing my 75 Gal stand. In order to have enough room for my sump, ATO jugs, and reactors I removed two of the vertical supports in back.... is this okay or what other way can I help support the top? is there a way I can make the stand 6" wider??
Rear view:
I'm designing my 75 Gal stand. In order to have enough room for my sump, ATO jugs, and reactors I removed two of the vertical supports in back.... is this okay or what other way can I help support the top? is there a way I can make the stand 6" wider??
Rear view:
Great thread Rocket Engineer, I used your plans this weekend to put together a 180g stand. Kreg's pocket jig was worth every penny, this went together so easily compared to other stands I've built.
I still need to drop some plywood in the sump area, and probably back as well. I don't plan to skin it right away, but I do want to water seal and paint it a glossy black. What should I use for that?
I still need to drop some plywood in the sump area, and probably back as well. I don't plan to skin it right away, but I do want to water seal and paint it a glossy black. What should I use for that?
chatyak
New member
Rocket (or others) - I saw it mentioned somewhere in these giant threads that acrylic tanks require an additional step to this design - is that true?
I need to start making my stand for: 72"L x 26"W x 23"x (180ish gallons) and was going to make this stand out of 2x8s.
Is that not sufficient with plywood top/foam etc?
I need to start making my stand for: 72"L x 26"W x 23"x (180ish gallons) and was going to make this stand out of 2x8s.
Is that not sufficient with plywood top/foam etc?
Freemananana
New member
I have some questions regarding vertical supports and beam sizing. The tank I am looking to build a stand for will be 96"x30"x24" (LxWxH) or roughly 300 gallons. The tank will be drilled through the back with a bean animal style overflow. I do like the design with the offset bottom for the sump. That would make the pipes essentially straight up and down.
However, is this possible with such a long tank? 8' is double the length of the last stand I built. I do plan on using a 75g tank for the sump (standard dimensions). I'm in the planning stages now and likely won't start this project until next year.
So my questions are:
1. Can I use the picture design with a 8' tank?
2. What size support beams should I use? I was going to laminate 2x4s together for larger lumber.
3. How many vertical supports do I need and what size should they be?
4. How tall of a stand would you use for a 75g sump? It will be 24" tall itself, so I'm thinking of how much work space would be adequate. My current stand is hard to work in.
My 75g has 4x4 corners (2 2x4s) and two 2x4 center braces, one in the front and one in the rear. That's a total of 10 2x4 vertical supports.
However, is this possible with such a long tank? 8' is double the length of the last stand I built. I do plan on using a 75g tank for the sump (standard dimensions). I'm in the planning stages now and likely won't start this project until next year.
So my questions are:
1. Can I use the picture design with a 8' tank?
2. What size support beams should I use? I was going to laminate 2x4s together for larger lumber.
3. How many vertical supports do I need and what size should they be?
4. How tall of a stand would you use for a 75g sump? It will be 24" tall itself, so I'm thinking of how much work space would be adequate. My current stand is hard to work in.
My 75g has 4x4 corners (2 2x4s) and two 2x4 center braces, one in the front and one in the rear. That's a total of 10 2x4 vertical supports.
soulpatch
New member
Wow, this is a HUGE thread with TONS of great information and inspiration! Thanks to RocketEngineer for helping us all out!
I'm designing my 75 Gal stand. In order to have enough room for my sump, ATO jugs, and reactors I removed two of the vertical supports in back.... is this okay or what other way can I help support the top? is there a way I can make the stand 6" wider??
Rear view:
I would make at least the bottom back blue board run to the edges like on the front.
I want to start off by saying thanks to everyone with their info that they've posted and the photo's there have been lots of ideas to play with.
I'm going to be moving soon, which will be great because i can upgrade, sad part is looking for something that i like, which lead me here to make my own, hopefully my design won't need too much modifications(built completely out of 2x4), i'll be moving into a 90G, the stand will have 2 compartments on each side for doors and shelving for all fish supplies and will have a hood built in as well, the picture shown is the core the shell will be added later.
i also wanted to try and track down the most cuts i can get from a large size of 2x4 so i made something in excel and figured if anyone who really knows excel better than i do could improve on it, but for the most part the stats work, some have to be manual (needed cuts and so on, any extra's will show up as a negative, also tax has to be put in with a decimal like 7.50% would be .0750) and math should be pretty good. if not i'm sure you'll let me know about it. anyways here's what it looks like.
download : http://www.2shared.com/file/nE8t9bME/90gallonstand.html
I'm going to be moving soon, which will be great because i can upgrade, sad part is looking for something that i like, which lead me here to make my own, hopefully my design won't need too much modifications(built completely out of 2x4), i'll be moving into a 90G, the stand will have 2 compartments on each side for doors and shelving for all fish supplies and will have a hood built in as well, the picture shown is the core the shell will be added later.
i also wanted to try and track down the most cuts i can get from a large size of 2x4 so i made something in excel and figured if anyone who really knows excel better than i do could improve on it, but for the most part the stats work, some have to be manual (needed cuts and so on, any extra's will show up as a negative, also tax has to be put in with a decimal like 7.50% would be .0750) and math should be pretty good. if not i'm sure you'll let me know about it. anyways here's what it looks like.
download : http://www.2shared.com/file/nE8t9bME/90gallonstand.html
