DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[klewis]

I've been trying to read as much of this thread as possible, great information and some beautiful work. I have seen a few references to building a stand with plywood only, does anyone know if someone has an example posted, plans or directions on how it is done? If yes, would you know which pages it's on?
I am intending to build a stand for a 150gallon 24x30x48 tank out of 3/4 plywood with a functioning cabinet and draws. All my plumbing will be between the draws and back wall going down into the basement . I've inspected prefab stands and they appear to be basic box with the tank resting on the edge and they are made out of material that in my opinion shouldn't be near water. I'm hoping to learn from other people's pitfalls to do it right the first time. Thanks for your help....

 

[Chrisq0904]

Just make sure that when you lay the plywood on top that it makes contact all the way around, and is flat on top. If the plywood is flat then you know you need to shim gaps. Or plane off the top so that the plywood is flush when you lay it down. That was the most time consuming part for me, I have a stand similar to yours for a 144 rimless that was doubled-up 2x6 crossbraces, it was a PITA to get the top brace flat and in contact all around, but it's important for longevity

Let's say for one reason or another I over look something and it turns out I'm not truly flat all around, isn't that the reason in the use of foam between the tank and stand? Or does it not matter and I have to be perfectly flat anyway? I plan to do the top either today or tomorrow so I just want to make sure

 

[woodnaquanut]

Let's say for one reason or another I over look something and it turns out I'm not truly flat all around, isn't that the reason in the use of foam between the tank and stand? Or does it not matter and I have to be perfectly flat anyway? I plan to do the top either today or tomorrow so I just want to make sure

Foam won't make it flat (really coplanar).

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Let's say for one reason or another I over look something and it turns out I'm not truly flat all around, isn't that the reason in the use of foam between the tank and stand? Or does it not matter and I have to be perfectly flat anyway? I plan to do the top either today or tomorrow so I just want to make sure

It depends on the tank. I'm guessing this is a rimless glass tank, correct?

If so, then woodnaquanut is correct, it won't make it coplanar which is what you want/need. Or at least, you want to get it as close as possible.

Rimless glass tanks must be set on foam because any point or imperfection in the surface will cause a pressure point that could cause the glass to fracture. The type of foam that most manufacturers recommend is the white beady type styrofoam (usually comes in the crate with the tank) because that compresses rather easily and will tend to take out inconsistencies in the flat surface, like you are concerned about - but only within reason. Which is why you want to make sure the surface is as close to perfect as possible, so that the foam doesn't have to do more than it was intended to do.

Blue or pink foam is OK if that's all you can get, I've used it before under a rimless glass tank. You only need a thin layer, 1/2" will do.

For an acrylic tank you do not want foam under it, but if you do, you have to make sure the surface is very rigid (stand crossbraced, 2x 3/4" plywood) and do NOT use white foam as it can compress unevenly, leading to the middle of the bottom panel flexing downward over time, which can put stress on the perimeter joints. Blue/pink foam is better because it holds it's shape better, but you only would want a very thin layer to minimize any possible deflection. Foam isn't needed under an acrylic tank because imperfections in the surface (as long as there isn't a screw/nail head sticking up, or a knot) are more readily absorbed by the acrylic. But that assumes that you are using a similar near-perfectly flat surface. But that is important for all tank stands, rimmed/stock included.

 

[Reef Mortician]

I'm gonna skin my frame tomorrow. I figured everyone glues the other decoratives onto them..like paneling or borders/trims.

I screwed and covered the holes with putty. Once I lay primer, you won't see anything.

 

[rjjr1963]

I'm building a stand for a 180 gallon aquarium. It's 72x24x24. I want to use 2x4 framing but I see a lot of people are using 2x6 for the top perimeter. If I use 2x4's and support the center of the frame with a vertical 2x4 would this be strong enough? Basically the 2x4 span would only be 3'. The ends and the face will also have 1/2" plywood.

 

[RocketEngineer]

I'm building a stand for a 180 gallon aquarium. It's 72x24x24. I want to use 2x4 framing but I see a lot of people are using 2x6 for the top perimeter. If I use 2x4's and support the center of the frame with a vertical 2x4 would this be strong enough? Basically the 2x4 span would only be 3'. The ends and the face will also have 1/2" plywood.

Yes given the addition of the center support.

 

[Reef Mortician]

After lurking in the shadows for years i finally can contribute to this thread. Here's my stand for my 40 breeder. I still have doors to put on and paint. Thanks Rocket!

 

[tyguy7760]

Rocket,

First let me thank you for posting this article as it has helped me come to the decision to build a custom stand. I am planning on setting up a 75 gallon standard glass tank

http://www.petsmart.com/fish/aquari...-catid-300013?var_id=36-17609&_t=pfm=category

However, I'd like to incorporate two different sets of doors like the design linked here

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/55_diy_pt1.php

The major differences that I would need to change to the above plan are as follows

1) Obviously this is for a 55 gallon and I want it for a 75 gallon. So It will need to be at least 4 inches deeper. This person also built his 36 inches tall as I plan on shaving that down some to about 33 inches.

2) His plan had the design of the smaller doors at the bottom while the larger doors were at the top. I'd like to reverse this so the small doors are at the top.

Should this plan be able to hold the standard 75 gallon FW tank without any issues? If there are improvements to be had I'm all ears.

 

[tyguy7760]

Rocket,

First let me thank you for posting this article as it has helped me come to the decision to build a custom stand. I am planning on setting up a 75 gallon standard glass tank

http://www.petsmart.com/fish/aquari...-catid-300013?var_id=36-17609&_t=pfm=category

However, I'd like to incorporate two different sets of doors like the design linked here

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/55_diy_pt1.php

The major differences that I would need to change to the above plan are as follows

1) Obviously this is for a 55 gallon and I want it for a 75 gallon. So It will need to be at least 4 inches deeper. This person also built his 36 inches tall as I plan on shaving that down some to about 33 inches.

2) His plan had the design of the smaller doors at the bottom while the larger doors were at the top. I'd like to reverse this so the small doors are at the top.

Should this plan be able to hold the standard 75 gallon FW tank without any issues? If there are improvements to be had I'm all ears.

Or if there is a way to incorporate drawers/small doors onto your plan at the top i'd be interested.

 

[chilli_reef]

This is the same seeing I use with every stand I build.
Save for one change. I use cheap 1x4 pine.
I've used it for a 125g tank with no problems at all. I did modify the plan and add a center support dead center front and back. But that was the only modification.
Its amazing how strong plain old 1x4 pine really is when you take advantage of it the right way.


Hmmmm....
Won't let me quote the original image lol !

 

[Reef Mortician]

Or if there is a way to incorporate drawers/small doors onto your plan at the top i'd be interested.

Incorporating a drawer into this design is easy.

I added in between the uprights a board to attach the slides for the drawer.

My drawer extends fully

While still sitting flush with the uprights.

 

[hobbzz]

What size boards would be required for a standard 29g? 1x2, 1x3? I've found by searching this thread that 1x4 will work, but no one asked about anything smaller, they specifically asked about 1x4 only. Thanks in advance

 

[tsav]

DIY Stands Template and Calculator

I built mine from 1-1/4" with 14ga wall thickness sq tubing and 1/8" steel plate.

The tank is a JBJ 45 RL.

 

[Reef Mortician]

What size boards would be required for a standard 29g? 1x2, 1x3? I've found by searching this thread that 1x4 will work, but no one asked about anything smaller, they specifically asked about 1x4 only. Thanks in advance

I would go with 1x4 box frame, and the least I would do would be 1x3 for legs. I would definitely skin it with 1/2 plywood though.

 

[hobbzz]

Thanks for the help. If 1x2/3 isn't good for everything I can just do 1x4 for all. I had planned on skinning anyway. What do you mean box frame? I was going to make it just like rockets design with 2x2 for screw strips...would that not work?

 

[Reef Mortician]

Thanks for the help. If 1x2/3 isn't good for everything I can just do 1x4 for all. I had planned on skinning anyway. What do you mean box frame? I was going to make it just like rockets design with 2x2 for screw strips...would that not work?

The red and yellow boards make up the box frame I mentioned.

 

[hobbzz]

Gotcha. Thanks again

 

[GingerHawk5917]

Hi guys hope all is well? Just after some advice, I have used Rockets plans before to build a 72x24x24 stand with success...I have now purchased a new tank and looking for help for the next stand...the tank will be 500 Gallons (U.S) and measure 96' x 25' x 48'..... Does anyone know how I would adjust the design to accommodate this weight? I would like the stand to be 38" high.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

 

[mknightryder]

Back in August I purchased a Planet Aquariums 150g 60"X24"x24". I began searching through this forum on how I wanted to build my stand and stumbled upon this thread. Whenever I came across post #3646 of this thread "kresDFW build", I was like, "Yep that's what I want!" I basically followed kresDFW's approach, but I changed a few things up. Instead of hinged doors I wanted panels that would be easy to take off and put back on, so I countersunk magnets into the stand and doors. Also, I wanted to have an electronics cabinet on one end for my APEX and other goodies. I built my first stand for my 90g following rocket's original plan, but this go around I wanted to do away with the nailstrips in the corners, so I purchased the Kreg jig kit. Love it! I know that the 2x8 top band and 2x6 corners are overkill, but I like overkill! The center brace is removable and is there just to make the front door panels work right. I have really massaged on this stand to get it to look sexy! I have many hrs in sanding, puttying, priming, and painting as well. I painted most of it with a HVLP spray gun to get the look I was shooting for. This thread helped me and I'd like to say thank you to all that contributed especially kresDFW! This following weekend I will be transferring equipment and livestock over from my 3.5yro 90g mixed reef.