DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[RocketEngineer]

Quick question regarding exact dimensions... I've read through 30 or so pages and couldn't find the answer. I'm building a stand for a 120 gal RR. Most refer to the footprint as being 48" x 24". If you look at the specs from marineland, it's actually 48-3/8 x 24-3/8. Are you guys building the frames to exactly this dimension or adding an inch so the plastic frame centers on the 2x4?

So basically... What length and width should I use when planning the build out for a 120 RR?

I recommend adding that extra inch so the plastic sits near the center of the boards. Given that framing lumber has a rounded edge, this extra inch also ensures the tank sits on the flat part of the board, not on that rounded corner section.

 

[JZinCO]

I'm looking for validation.
I framed out a stand yesterday (for the most part).
It generally follows this idea (credit to Shawn O):

The issue is my sump has the same footprint as my DT. The sump is 100% supported, using the yellow of the bottom box. The DT will sit forward on the top of the frame (sitting on the long red, short yellows and long blue). So, only the back end is not directly supported.
To make up for this, the blue is doubled up and reinforced to the short yellows with joist hangers. Then I have blocking to minimize sag. Last I will top with 3/4 ply.

The other difference from the original rocket design is the screw straps (green) are placed on the outer of the frame. In the picture, they aren't cut down so as to reduce shear on the screws, but I will make that change.

FYI the tank dimensions are 48"x13". The stand is 48"x18"x36". The lumber is 1x4 (actual 0.75x3.5). The DT is 50 gal.

Attached are photos; in the first photo, the box looks askew but it is square (must be the photo angle). My question is, what do you all think? It seems super sturdy but I have only tested 200lb on it. I believe I followed recommendations for an oversize stand (supported joist, blocking, thick ply top). There is no facny joinery in the stand.

 

[Brockly]

Oversized stand question

Oversized stand question

I am rebuilding my 75 gallon stand. The tank is glass with black edging strap and standard size 48 wide etc

I want to build the stand 60 wide so I can have a shelf area on one side of the tank. If I build the top square out of 2x6 instead could I do that withought modifying the design? Meaning the tank would sit flush left front and back to the top fram but the right side wouldn't have support under it other then the long edge 2x6. If that diesnt work what is the mod. Ad another top cross brace under right edge at 48 inches then add a virticke leg enter that brace in front and back? Or could I just do back?

Thanks

 

[Brockly]

And for the record I build my first stand off this thread back in 2005 or whenever it started I can't even remember. So... crazy it's still going. Literally one if not thee best forum post if all time rocketengineer. I'm so thankful you still show up to answer questions

 

[Brockly]

Shoot another quick question something I've always wondered if you look at the original diagram by rocket it shows the corner L leg braces with seams lined up from the long side and short side. Many other diagrams (like the one 2 posts up) show that L seam crossing over the bottom square seamed more of a cross hatch. Hard to describe but if you look st the row pictures the difference is obvious. DOES THIS MATTER AT ALL. I've always wondered about that?

 

[JZinCO]

I am rebuilding my 75 gallon stand. The tank is glass with black edging strap and standard size 48 wide etc

I want to build the stand 60 wide so I can have a shelf area on one side of the tank. If I build the top square out of 2x6 instead could I do that withought modifying the design? Meaning the tank would sit flush left front and back to the top fram but the right side wouldn't have support under it other then the long edge 2x6. If that diesnt work what is the mod. Ad another top cross brace under right edge at 48 inches then add a virticke leg enter that brace in front and back? Or could I just do back?

Thanks

Maybe I am misunderstanding but why would you need to extend from 48" to 60"?
It sounds like you have (at least) 2 options. If you want just a ledge/shelf, then build Rocket's box 48" long, but top it with a 60" top. Or, build rocket's box 48" long and then extend by adding a cabinet (separate or joined to the 48" box). You could just use plywood and furring or some other light duty material to frame out the cabinet.

Basically, I didn't read a reason in your post to have the tank 'float' on any side (unlike mine). Check this out: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2326476
If you want a shelving unit, build a 48" long stand,
If I were you, and I just wanted a shelf, I would build the standard tank design 48" wide. If you want just a shelf, put some sort of top onto the

edit: Do a search for peninsula builds, I'd bet you can find some designs you can modify.

 

[JZinCO]

Shoot another quick question something I've always wondered if you look at the original diagram by rocket it shows the corner L leg braces with seams lined up from the long side and short side. Many other diagrams (like the one 2 posts up) show that L seam crossing over the bottom square seamed more of a cross hatch. Hard to describe but if you look st the row pictures the difference is obvious. DOES THIS MATTER AT ALL. I've always wondered about that?

I may be corrected by someone else but, I considered this as well and this is how I see it.
Rocket's was simpler because you could build each side separately and then fasten them together. Also it gives the short sides 3" more contact (using 2x4s) with the uprights. I'm not sure if that matters. I'd rather give the short sides 3" less contact in exchange for 3" more contacts for the long sides (given the potential for deflection as span increases).

In my case, with the sump being the same footprint as the DT, if I had oriented those uprights the way rocket had them, I would have had to make the stand 1.5" deeper with 1x4's (3" with 2x4s) in order to fit the sump as the sump length=the stand length. That would have meant (in my design) the blocking between the outer frame and the joist would have had to been made longer (thus decreasing the stiffness of that joist).

 

[JZinCO]

I'm looking for validation.
I framed out a stand yesterday (for the most part).

......

Bump. Unless someone sees something egregious, I'm going to roll with my stand.
Please, if there's a safety or stability aspect I missed, let me know.

 

[Brockly]

The reason for the extension was to allow for more mechanical room down in the sump area. If I had to add the vertical bracing it would. Be fine just a bit in the way so I dealing I wouldn't add any legs at the 48 inch area

 

[JZinCO]

Well if you really want to build a frame longer than 48, I suggest the tips I picked up and am using: 1) extend in 1 direction if possible so that only one side is floating on a joist, 2) use a thicker top (e.g. 3/4 ply) to spread the load, 3) support the joist with hangers to reduce shear stress on the fasteners, 4) use blocking or bridging and/or double up the joist to reduce sag on the joist.

I have no background in construction though, so take my advice lightly.

 

[Fat_cat]

Hi Rocket Engineer,

I am so happy to have found this thread! I was asking questions on another forum site about a diy stand I bought second hand and was informed it was a "rocket engineer" design. There were a lot of differing opinions on whether I could use this stand with the tank that was sold with it, so I am glad I can ask the engineer himself.

The issue is that the tank is smaller than the stand, so the only part of the perimeter of the tank that sits on the reinforced edges of the stand is the back edge. This is a 57 gallon tank (36x18x21") and the stand is 43x26".

I am attaching pics of the stand. Can you tell me if it can structurally support this tank?



Sorry they are all sideways, that is annoying...

Thank you so much!!

 

[JZinCO]

Bump. Unless someone sees something egregious, I'm going to roll with my stand.
Please, if there's a safety or stability aspect I missed, let me know.

Ignore this. I ended up getting a 125 gal tank that came with a stand with 3/4 ply construction. It's a beast of a stand so I will take my old stand and make it a heavy-duty workshop bench.

 

[JZinCO]

Hi Rocket Engineer,
....

Rocket can answer themself but I can tell you that if you are concerned, follow the pointers I laid out in my above posts regarding techniques to deal with oversized stands. Course you could always cut it down to size

 

[Wasano11]

@Rocketengineer I'm in need of a little guidance. I really appreciate the plethora of posts and replies you have given throughout the years! Thank you! I recently purchased a rather large 60"L x 18"W x 48"H tank alone is about 500-600 pound. I would like to span the front opening, about 5 feet or so, are 2x6s enough to support this or should I go it 2x8s? Thanks again for the feedback and knowledge

 

[RocketEngineer]

@Rocketengineer I'm in need of a little guidance. I really appreciate the plethora of posts and replies you have given throughout the years! Thank you! I recently purchased a rather large 60"L x 18"W x 48"H tank alone is about 500-600 pound. I would like to span the front opening, about 5 feet or so, are 2x6s enough to support this or should I go it 2x8s? Thanks again for the feedback and knowledge

First, let me warn you that a tank with those dimensions is going to be very difficult to do anything with. The 48" height but only 18" width is very limiting. My 125g is 18" wide and I wish it was wider. At 48" tall, you will need to get into the tank to reach the bottom. Not something I would recommend.

With that said, you will need a 2X8 to span the 60" width given that tank size.

 

[Wasano11]

Thank you very much for the reply yes I agree it is very difficult to maintain a tank with these dimensions and I am making it a discus aquarium no reef but yes it sucks getting stuff in and out of. I am very much addicted to the odd ball aquariums and I have yet to see another tank like this one. I was leaning toward the 2x8 thank you for confirming my hunch!!!

 

[frogspawn74]

Hope I don't have to redo my stand.

This is for a 225 gallon tank.
Dims are 72 x 36 x 20 tall.
I built the stand out of 2x6's (Didn't think 2x8 were necessary only 20" tall tank)
I do not want a center support in the front.

Should I just glue and screw another 2x6 in the front?
I was also planning to notch the joists to sit flush and support the 3/4 ply top.

 

[RocketEngineer]

Hope I don't have to redo my stand.

This is for a 225 gallon tank.
Dims are 72 x 36 x 20 tall.
I built the stand out of 2x6's (Didn't think 2x8 were necessary only 20" tall tank)
I do not want a center support in the front.

Should I just glue and screw another 2x6 in the front?
I was also planning to notch the joists to sit flush and support the 3/4 ply top.

At ~224G that's 1125 pounds on each 2X6. With a 65" free span (72-3.5-3.5=65) that 2X6 will deflect ~.20". You really need more support. Doubling up the 2X6 is a valid way to do that. I would put the plywood on top myself but thats JMO.

Sorry for the bad news. Good luck.

 

[frogspawn74]

Thank you vary much for the input Rocket!
I was planning on adding the 3/4 in ply to the top screwed and glued.
Would 3 joined(front(prefer only 2))
one long (center) and one long(back with 2 more vertical support)
And 2 short joists added be more than enough? 24" apart

Sry for not knowing the proper terms

 

[RocketEngineer]

Thank you vary much for the input Rocket!
I was planning on adding the 3/4 in ply to the top screwed and glued.
Would 3 joined(front(prefer only 2))
one long (center) and one long(back with 2 more vertical support)
And 2 short joists added be more than enough? 24" apart

Sry for not knowing the proper terms

Lets not worry about proper terms and just go with the diagram :hammer:

You need to double up the red pieces. The ones you have aren't as strong as they need to be but if you double them up so there are (2) 2X6s instead of one, that is enough to keep deflections in the acceptable range.

Does that make sense?