frogspawn74
New member
RocketEngineer; You need to double up the red pieces. The ones you have aren't as strong as they need to be but if you double them up so there are (2) 2X6s instead of one said:
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
BigJohnny
Active member
How perfectly square does a diy aquarium stand need to be using this format? I built mine and the top is level all around, but I'm wondering how much of an error is required for the tank to fail. When putting it together I had to make some adjustments (sanding etc) to put everything together properly. I think this was mainly due to the wood (as straight as I could find) since all of my framing pieces were cut to identical lengths. I assume that is common that a little elbow grease/adjustment is required since no one has perfectly planed 2x4s? Unless you get them planed or plane them yourself that is. I'm nervous about setting my tank up! 
I'm not worried about the stand failing, just the tank. Also is it normal for the stand to creak randomly after set up as it settles in? I put the empty tank and canopy on top and heard a creak or two one day or another after it had been sitting there for a week or so.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I'm not worried about the stand failing, just the tank. Also is it normal for the stand to creak randomly after set up as it settles in? I put the empty tank and canopy on top and heard a creak or two one day or another after it had been sitting there for a week or so.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Bpb
New member
How perfectly square does a diy aquarium stand need to be using this format? I built mine and the top is level all around, but I'm wondering how much of an error is required for the tank to fail. When putting it together I had to make some adjustments (sanding etc) to put everything together properly. I think this was mainly due to the wood (as straight as I could find) since all of my framing pieces were cut to identical lengths. I assume that is common that a little elbow grease/adjustment is required since no one has perfectly planed 2x4s? Unless you get them planed or plane them yourself that is. I'm nervous about setting my tank up!
I'm not worried about the stand failing, just the tank. Also is it normal for the stand to creak randomly after set up as it settles in? I put the empty tank and canopy on top and heard a creak or two one day or another after it had been sitting there for a week or so.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
for my 75 gallon fresh tank, DIY stand, I DID perfectly square the 2x4's with a surface planer, took forever, but the stand is PERFECTLY square as a result and id feel comfortable parking my truck on top of it honestly. My 90 gallon reef tank sits on a manufacturer matched plywood stand with no framing supports, but they do give lifetime warranties with those stands so I sleep well at night using it. In the future if I build another stand for another tank I'll absolute be using a surface planer for the frame again. I don't own one but I will ask a friend who does. The cost of failure from warped or crooked legs is WAY too high considering the amount of time it takes just to square them up
BigJohnny
Active member
This didn't address my concern but thanks for sharing. I'm jealous of the comfort you have! The majority of people do not plane their wood however, so I'm hoping to hear from any of those people on whether or not they had similar experiences to me as far as needing to fine tune to make everything fit.
I was also hoping to hear how far off things need to be in general to cause an issue with a standard tank rimmed aquarium, and how I could maybe check that beforehand.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
stand for 200DD
stand for 200DD
The time is come for me to move my 200DD (mixed joy).
The tank is 48"wide x 36"deep X 27" tall.
I was thinking that since tank is 48" (or less) then 2x4 upper rail would be ok. BUT since I want to span the front/back opening, go with 2x6.
Uprights/legs would be 2x4 (maybe 2x6).
Rocket and other please comment!
stand for 200DD
The time is come for me to move my 200DD (mixed joy).
The tank is 48"wide x 36"deep X 27" tall.
I was thinking that since tank is 48" (or less) then 2x4 upper rail would be ok. BUT since I want to span the front/back opening, go with 2x6.
Uprights/legs would be 2x4 (maybe 2x6).
Rocket and other please comment!
FoothillCorals
Premium Member
Question for RocketEngineer
I am finally getting around to building a stand. The tank is 60x34x21 tall and is Acrylic. The longest span between the (red) uprights will be 25" Will 2x4s be enough with a center brace? Can you tell me what the deflection would be? I also plan on putting (blue) cross pieces every 10" to keep it from sagging in the middle since it is an acrylic tank. Thanks in advance.
I am finally getting around to building a stand. The tank is 60x34x21 tall and is Acrylic. The longest span between the (red) uprights will be 25" Will 2x4s be enough with a center brace? Can you tell me what the deflection would be? I also plan on putting (blue) cross pieces every 10" to keep it from sagging in the middle since it is an acrylic tank. Thanks in advance.
Awesome thread, and great plans.
I have s quick question-
My tank is a 72lx18wx22h, 125 gallon. Am I right in thinking I could do a 2x4 span fir that length if I supported it 36 inches from one end? So it would have a maximum unsupported span of 36 inches?
My sump is a 40b, 36 inches long, and I was going to put a center support right at 38 inches so I could slide it straight in on the right side. Far left side will be a boxed off 22 inch cabinet for electronics and a pull out 10gallon ato res. That gives me around 12 inches of space between the cabinet wall and the brace to put reactors etc .
Thanks for any insight.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have s quick question-
My tank is a 72lx18wx22h, 125 gallon. Am I right in thinking I could do a 2x4 span fir that length if I supported it 36 inches from one end? So it would have a maximum unsupported span of 36 inches?
My sump is a 40b, 36 inches long, and I was going to put a center support right at 38 inches so I could slide it straight in on the right side. Far left side will be a boxed off 22 inch cabinet for electronics and a pull out 10gallon ato res. That gives me around 12 inches of space between the cabinet wall and the brace to put reactors etc .
Thanks for any insight.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quick question regarding the lower frame rails (orange and blue)-
Any issues with building that so that the 3.5 inch face is flat to the ground, and the 1.5 inch profile becomes the height? Because of total height constraints - wife really needs it to match height of built ins on adjacent wall so it matches - the extra 2 inches gained actually make the difference fir getting my skimmer in the 40b sump.
Since the purpose of these rails is to spread the weight on the ends of the legs across a larger surface area, wouldn't doing it this way make it easier on my hardwood floor as a bonus?
Thanks for any insight
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Any issues with building that so that the 3.5 inch face is flat to the ground, and the 1.5 inch profile becomes the height? Because of total height constraints - wife really needs it to match height of built ins on adjacent wall so it matches - the extra 2 inches gained actually make the difference fir getting my skimmer in the 40b sump.
Since the purpose of these rails is to spread the weight on the ends of the legs across a larger surface area, wouldn't doing it this way make it easier on my hardwood floor as a bonus?
Thanks for any insight
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hentz
New member
So tried to be as square as possible... The bottom frame is really quite square, however the tip isn't... I put on a pice of plywood on top that perfectly fits my tank at 46"x24". In the picture I had the plywood sit completely flush in the front but this is what happens towards the back. Almost as if the top frame is skewed to the left... It feels insanely solid and doesn't seem to wobble or anything when I shake it from left to right. however I'd like your professional opinions before I go any farther.. Adding Plywood to the sides is also off, but I'm thinking I might add it to the slight crook it will have to be added and them shimmy heavily under neath..
I tried removing the top frame to see if I can fix it or even just rebuild, but it won't come off easy and will likely require a completely new frame.
I tried removing the top frame to see if I can fix it or even just rebuild, but it won't come off easy and will likely require a completely new frame.
PaPa_Johnny
Premium Member
If you measure corner to corner and compare the lengths you will probably find that the stand is not square. Unless you willing to sister the outside of one side of the stand you are going to wind up with unsupported glass sitting on just the plywood lip if I'm seeing things correctly. Now, I'm not a carpentry expert, nor an engineer, but that is a recipe for disaster in my opinion. I hate to say it but it looks like a rebuild is in store.
Grimreaperz
New member
Okay I'm back after much more research and planning.
I want to build a new stand.
It will be 6' 2" long
40" high
23" wide.
Start will be just supporting a 75g + 20g tall display fuge
I may upgrade to a 150+ in the future.
So from my understanding after reading this thread multiple times here's what I'll want to do please correct me if I am wrong.
3/4plywood top is just a given.
2x6 for top frame, support beam, And cross supports.
2x4 for bottom frame.
I want to add internal shelving can someone point me to a stand build where that was done? Just for ideas?
If the floor isn't completely level how do you rectify that?
Pre treated wood or is untreated pine fine? (Lol poet and I didn't even know it
)
TIA for answering my noob questions!
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
I want to build a new stand.
It will be 6' 2" long
40" high
23" wide.
Start will be just supporting a 75g + 20g tall display fuge
I may upgrade to a 150+ in the future.
So from my understanding after reading this thread multiple times here's what I'll want to do please correct me if I am wrong.
3/4plywood top is just a given.
2x6 for top frame, support beam, And cross supports.
2x4 for bottom frame.
I want to add internal shelving can someone point me to a stand build where that was done? Just for ideas?
If the floor isn't completely level how do you rectify that?
Pre treated wood or is untreated pine fine? (Lol poet and I didn't even know it
)TIA for answering my noob questions!
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
asonitez
Floodicus Maximus Flooris
Hello Rocket!
First off thank you SO FREAKING MUCH for posting the plans for building a tank stand. You will literally be saving me hundreds of dollars. For your help with my questions I would be willing to compensate/tip you for your help.
Here is my Build Thread
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2627948&page=2
On that last page you can see the trouble that I ran into with the builder of my stand and basically how I ended up in this awful situation.
On to the help I need.
My tank as it stands is 60" Long 30" Wide and 24" High EuroBraced. My Sump is 55" Long 24" Wide and 18" High
Using your plans - I'm thinking of building the stand using 2X6's with a Center Supports 1/3rd of the way in on Both sides. (I'd rather NOT but this is where the questions come in.)
In Order to fit more equipment inside of the stand I want to build the stand as large as possible with the most usable space inside the stand. To keep material costs down I was thinking of building the following stand Dimensions.
8 Foot Long (I have an area of 8.5 Total Feet or roughly 104") - Planned to use an 8 Foot long because it would take me 3 or 4 Pieces of Ply to Skin it. The back could be 1 sheet of ply with ventilation built in or open. The front can be 1 Piece of Ply with doors cut into the ply around the opening.
I was planning on the following Options
Option A
Build a 8ft Stand using the directions in the original diagram out of 2X6's
Over the area of the stand where the tank will be sitting (center) - Completely reinforce that area with upright 2X4's or 2X6's attached to the bottom Runners (Orange) Put the runners equidistant from the edge of the tank (At the BACK and at the front.) If this works correctly then the sump should be able to fit under the stand itself or the right on a supported sub floor with 1/2" or 3/4" Ply as a base for the sump to sit on.
Option B
Build a stand using the measurements of a 60" X 30 X 38" Cabinet. Then Onto the SIDES of the Cabinet/Original Frame Build ON to the stand using 2x4's to make the 2 side cabinets.
Since my Overflow is centered on the tank and on the back wall away from the edge of the tank does the plans allow me to install my bulkheads and plumbing?
Does the TANK using these plans fit completely FLUSH on the cabinet or is there a Lip? If there is a lip that's FINE. I'm just trying to see if my bulkheads will clear the top back rail to install my plumbing.
First off thank you SO FREAKING MUCH for posting the plans for building a tank stand. You will literally be saving me hundreds of dollars. For your help with my questions I would be willing to compensate/tip you for your help.
Here is my Build Thread
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2627948&page=2
On that last page you can see the trouble that I ran into with the builder of my stand and basically how I ended up in this awful situation.
On to the help I need.
My tank as it stands is 60" Long 30" Wide and 24" High EuroBraced. My Sump is 55" Long 24" Wide and 18" High
Using your plans - I'm thinking of building the stand using 2X6's with a Center Supports 1/3rd of the way in on Both sides. (I'd rather NOT but this is where the questions come in.)
In Order to fit more equipment inside of the stand I want to build the stand as large as possible with the most usable space inside the stand. To keep material costs down I was thinking of building the following stand Dimensions.
8 Foot Long (I have an area of 8.5 Total Feet or roughly 104") - Planned to use an 8 Foot long because it would take me 3 or 4 Pieces of Ply to Skin it. The back could be 1 sheet of ply with ventilation built in or open. The front can be 1 Piece of Ply with doors cut into the ply around the opening.
I was planning on the following Options
Option A
Build a 8ft Stand using the directions in the original diagram out of 2X6's
Over the area of the stand where the tank will be sitting (center) - Completely reinforce that area with upright 2X4's or 2X6's attached to the bottom Runners (Orange) Put the runners equidistant from the edge of the tank (At the BACK and at the front.) If this works correctly then the sump should be able to fit under the stand itself or the right on a supported sub floor with 1/2" or 3/4" Ply as a base for the sump to sit on.
Option B
Build a stand using the measurements of a 60" X 30 X 38" Cabinet. Then Onto the SIDES of the Cabinet/Original Frame Build ON to the stand using 2x4's to make the 2 side cabinets.
Since my Overflow is centered on the tank and on the back wall away from the edge of the tank does the plans allow me to install my bulkheads and plumbing?
Does the TANK using these plans fit completely FLUSH on the cabinet or is there a Lip? If there is a lip that's FINE. I'm just trying to see if my bulkheads will clear the top back rail to install my plumbing.
NewbReefer316
New member
First off, thanks to rocket and all those who have contributed thus far. I built my first stand in less than an hour thanks to you all, it was a basic build for a 75g tank. I'm working on my second stand and have a few questions about vertical supports and using a foam liner.
Stand dimensions: 96"x24"x37.5"
Construction: 2x4's w/ 3/4" ply for top and bottom, all 4 sides left open
Tank/s: 2x50g 48"x24"x12"
1. Do I need vertical supports, other than the L's that go around each corner? The total tank volume is low compared to the length, but it's still a full 8' run. If so, how many do I need and at what distance? Would it be possible to put 2 in the back, splitting the tank into thirds, and one up front in the middle?
2. Do I need the foam on the top and bottom of the stand? The sump on the bottom shelf is acrylic but the rest of the tanks have trim on the bottom.
Stand dimensions: 96"x24"x37.5"
Construction: 2x4's w/ 3/4" ply for top and bottom, all 4 sides left open
Tank/s: 2x50g 48"x24"x12"
1. Do I need vertical supports, other than the L's that go around each corner? The total tank volume is low compared to the length, but it's still a full 8' run. If so, how many do I need and at what distance? Would it be possible to put 2 in the back, splitting the tank into thirds, and one up front in the middle?
2. Do I need the foam on the top and bottom of the stand? The sump on the bottom shelf is acrylic but the rest of the tanks have trim on the bottom.
greetings.
I'm finally getting back in to the hobby after 20+ years away.
I was going to pull the old 110 tall out of storage, but the mrs. is worried about leaks.
So we've decided to move the planned main floor tank on a stand to a new 150 tall in wall in the basement.
It is going in to an existing non-load bearing wall.
The DT is 48"L x 24"W x 30"H. I will have a 55g for the sump.
Per the template, do I use 2 x 4's still, since the tank is 48"L,
or does the taller tank push me in to 2 x 6?
thanks
Mike
I'm finally getting back in to the hobby after 20+ years away.
I was going to pull the old 110 tall out of storage, but the mrs. is worried about leaks.
So we've decided to move the planned main floor tank on a stand to a new 150 tall in wall in the basement.
It is going in to an existing non-load bearing wall.
The DT is 48"L x 24"W x 30"H. I will have a 55g for the sump.
Per the template, do I use 2 x 4's still, since the tank is 48"L,
or does the taller tank push me in to 2 x 6?
thanks
Mike
Question for you.
I'm looking to make a tank fornanfrag tank.
The tank is 24x24x10 and is drilled.
I want the stand to be 24x24x36.
Using 2x4 for framing is loose a lot of usable space in the cabinet, is there any reason I couldn't use either pressure treated or furniture grade 2x2 for the framing and 1/2" ply for added support and skin?
I never got a response so I went with it any ways, followed this guide with some minor tweaks.
Did not use the screw boards, added supports for the 4 vertical legs.
It easily held myself plus another at 450lbs.
As of now I've got the tank filled with water sitting on top of it in the garage, I'll skin it in a few days unless any one has any recommendations.
Hmm can't upload any pictures so here's a Photobucket image
Did not use the screw boards, added supports for the 4 vertical legs.
It easily held myself plus another at 450lbs.
As of now I've got the tank filled with water sitting on top of it in the garage, I'll skin it in a few days unless any one has any recommendations.
Hmm can't upload any pictures so here's a Photobucket image
