DIY Stands Template and Calculator
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TheFishMan65
New member
Go back through the splits to the very first post. It explains 90% of it.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
mborkush,
The number of legs will determine the size of the beams involved. If you went with a single center leg you would be looking at ~60" span for a 1175# load which would require a 2X8 board for the top frame. While you could go smaller, the deflection would increase to over 1/8" which is where I get nervous especially with an acrylic tank. If you went with a leg every 40", you could use a 2X6 without any problems.
jformani,
You will need at least one additional support along the 96" side. Depending on how you design it, this could be centered or you could have two, one on either side of a central opening. Depending on which of these you choose, will determine the size top frame you will need.
RocketEngineer
The number of legs will determine the size of the beams involved. If you went with a single center leg you would be looking at ~60" span for a 1175# load which would require a 2X8 board for the top frame. While you could go smaller, the deflection would increase to over 1/8" which is where I get nervous especially with an acrylic tank. If you went with a leg every 40", you could use a 2X6 without any problems.
jformani,
You will need at least one additional support along the 96" side. Depending on how you design it, this could be centered or you could have two, one on either side of a central opening. Depending on which of these you choose, will determine the size top frame you will need.
RocketEngineer
1mbrews8
Member
i have a build thread on www . atlanta reef club . org .... but i think the site is down now. i might have one on here and hve a couple in progress pics on this thread...
what exactly would you like to know? thanks for the intrest
mike
Musbtr1pin
New member
Those would be pocket screws. I have used pocket screws on my router table stand made of 1"x2" and the stand can hold almost 180 pounds (me standing on it)
Alex
That is a Craig joint to be exact......
nightfire
New member
hey guys im wanting to make a new stand that can acomidate my 55g and be fine for a future 75-90 gallon....thought i'd make it fit for a 75-90g tank and add an extra frame onto the inside like this picture.....would that be good enough or should i do 2 extra frames like this on both sides to insure support? also would the 2x4 frame be fine with out having a center leg or should i use 2x6s?
Attachments
Hi everyone,
Just framed my stand for the new 180 build and had a question about the bottom panel.
Should I add plywood to the inside of the base, say 1/4" up from the bottom or simply screw it to the actual bottom? I think it would be cleaner to insert it into the bottom instead of on the bottom.
I would use pocket holes to attach it to the bottom and then caulk it before paint to make the bottom into a safety collection area for spills.
I also thought of putting 3/4" ply braces under the bottom panel, inside the base, at 1/4" up from the bottom. This would then allow me to set the bottom panel on top of the braces for added strength.
What do you think?
I still have to complete the 45* braces in each corner and install the rear center brace.
With the 45* braces at every corner will I still need to skin the back and sides?
I plan on having a sump in the bottom, about 40 gallons or so should be in it during normal operation.
Thank you.
Just framed my stand for the new 180 build and had a question about the bottom panel.
Should I add plywood to the inside of the base, say 1/4" up from the bottom or simply screw it to the actual bottom? I think it would be cleaner to insert it into the bottom instead of on the bottom.
I would use pocket holes to attach it to the bottom and then caulk it before paint to make the bottom into a safety collection area for spills.
I also thought of putting 3/4" ply braces under the bottom panel, inside the base, at 1/4" up from the bottom. This would then allow me to set the bottom panel on top of the braces for added strength.
What do you think?
I still have to complete the 45* braces in each corner and install the rear center brace.
With the 45* braces at every corner will I still need to skin the back and sides?
I plan on having a sump in the bottom, about 40 gallons or so should be in it during normal operation.
Thank you.
looneytunes
Member
HELP i want to build stand
HELP i want to build stand
i want to start a 120 gallon fowlr tank. i want to build my own stand but i don't know if this will work. i don't have the exact measurements (48?X24?X24?)yet but my idea is to use 2x4's face up for the bottom and top frames. also 2x4's for the legs doubling up on the corners in and L shape and one every 16" front and back. using deck screws vertically to attach the bases and legs, glue, and the metal brackets shaped in an L. please excuse my artistic abilities but i think i attached what i see the top and base looking like. also i do plan on gluing stain grade boards to the outside so i can stain and add moulding. one of the sides will have a door to put my sump in. and three doors on the front.
WOULD THIS WORK.
if necessary after the basic stand is all attached i could make a frame with 4 sides (2x4's face up)to attach to the bottom with glue and make the bottom frame stronger if you think it will be weak with the wood face up.
HELP i want to build stand
i want to start a 120 gallon fowlr tank. i want to build my own stand but i don't know if this will work. i don't have the exact measurements (48?X24?X24?)yet but my idea is to use 2x4's face up for the bottom and top frames. also 2x4's for the legs doubling up on the corners in and L shape and one every 16" front and back. using deck screws vertically to attach the bases and legs, glue, and the metal brackets shaped in an L. please excuse my artistic abilities but i think i attached what i see the top and base looking like. also i do plan on gluing stain grade boards to the outside so i can stain and add moulding. one of the sides will have a door to put my sump in. and three doors on the front.
WOULD THIS WORK.
if necessary after the basic stand is all attached i could make a frame with 4 sides (2x4's face up)to attach to the bottom with glue and make the bottom frame stronger if you think it will be weak with the wood face up.
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TheFishMan65
New member
That i over kill - go back and read the first thread. You can simplify some of what you are doing.
I wound up asking the lfs where the tank MFG puts the bottom panel for the stand and decided to raise it off of the floor.
I did this by putting braces of 4" widths across the bottom of the tank, 3/4" plywood - 3/4" up from the bottom of the stand and inside the framing. Then I set the 3/4" plywood floor panel on top of the braces (everything was glued and pocket-screwed).
Also, I put a 3/4" plywood deck on the top of the stand just in case there were any imperfections in the 2x8 joints.
Question is, with the 45* braces at every corner like I've installed, is there still a need to skin the back and/or sides? If so, what thickness of plywood is recommended?
What did I learn?
Pick the straightest, non-warped boards you can.
Use the Kreg jig or similar pocket-hole system
Glue every joint
Keep wet paper towels handy for glue clean up
Build it stronger than you think you'll need (peace of mind)
Use (or find someone's to use) a table saw to rip 1/8" from both sides of your stock to remove the rounded corners to make the joints nicer/stronger.
Have a lot of clamps on hand
If you are going on carpet - raise the floor of the stand at least 3/4" off the bottom of the stand and place it inside the 2x framing.
Glue and screw every joint.
Make the "box" for the top separately, make sure the joints are rock solid and planar (flat) and put it on the legs as one piece. Putting the top together one piece at a time and installing each piece separately on the legs makes it very difficult to keep the top joints flat.
A plywood top is nice and strengthens your stand while making up for "minor" imperfections in your 2x top.
Use only glue, no mechanical fasteners, to secure your top to the stand. Make sure to clamp the top down while the glue dries.
Foam is only needed for acrylic tanks and glass tanks that don't have bottom trim.
If you have a glass tank and it has plastic trim around the bottom, you don't need to use foam - it's actually a bad idea to use it when combined with a glass tank that has the plastic trim on the bottom.
Feel free to add or change this list, it's simply what I gleaned from my research when building RocketEngineer's design.
Thank you RocketEngineer!
Here are my photos:
I still have to remove the clamps and route the overhanging top flush with the stand.
I did this by putting braces of 4" widths across the bottom of the tank, 3/4" plywood - 3/4" up from the bottom of the stand and inside the framing. Then I set the 3/4" plywood floor panel on top of the braces (everything was glued and pocket-screwed).
Also, I put a 3/4" plywood deck on the top of the stand just in case there were any imperfections in the 2x8 joints.
Question is, with the 45* braces at every corner like I've installed, is there still a need to skin the back and/or sides? If so, what thickness of plywood is recommended?
What did I learn?
Pick the straightest, non-warped boards you can.
Use the Kreg jig or similar pocket-hole system
Glue every joint
Keep wet paper towels handy for glue clean up
Build it stronger than you think you'll need (peace of mind)
Use (or find someone's to use) a table saw to rip 1/8" from both sides of your stock to remove the rounded corners to make the joints nicer/stronger.
Have a lot of clamps on hand
If you are going on carpet - raise the floor of the stand at least 3/4" off the bottom of the stand and place it inside the 2x framing.
Glue and screw every joint.
Make the "box" for the top separately, make sure the joints are rock solid and planar (flat) and put it on the legs as one piece. Putting the top together one piece at a time and installing each piece separately on the legs makes it very difficult to keep the top joints flat.
A plywood top is nice and strengthens your stand while making up for "minor" imperfections in your 2x top.
Use only glue, no mechanical fasteners, to secure your top to the stand. Make sure to clamp the top down while the glue dries.
Foam is only needed for acrylic tanks and glass tanks that don't have bottom trim.
If you have a glass tank and it has plastic trim around the bottom, you don't need to use foam - it's actually a bad idea to use it when combined with a glass tank that has the plastic trim on the bottom.
Feel free to add or change this list, it's simply what I gleaned from my research when building RocketEngineer's design.
Thank you RocketEngineer!
Here are my photos:
I still have to remove the clamps and route the overhanging top flush with the stand.
Attachments
TheFishMan65
New member
I bult my stand with 4x4 corners and 2x4 top and bottom frame. And a few middle supports. I did not use any additional support (no plywood no 45s). I can not tell that it is any less solid than one that might.
nyvp
Active member
So here we are, I have a 130x37x44 tank 920/g going on this stand . The stand is only 27" tall.My cieling is 8' so i have only 27 on top as well. I still have to put the cross brace and the plywood on top. It's made totally out of 2x4's due to the fact i wouldn't be able to get my hand inside the sump with the added dimensions with using 2x6 or 2x8's. The largest span on front is 27" and 26 across on top.
Any critique before I button it up?
4 - 2x4's in each corner 2 in front and 2 in back.
That will be the wall i'm taking down and putting tank in.
Puppy sleeping with no idea his areas is moving
Any critique before I button it up?
4 - 2x4's in each corner 2 in front and 2 in back.
That will be the wall i'm taking down and putting tank in.
Puppy sleeping with no idea his areas is moving
TheFishMan65
New member
What is the tank supported on front and back. If it is the outside vertical 2x4 then you look good. But if it is the inside one I might start to worry.
TheFishMan65
New member
I just worry about the inside one bending. If you are comfortable then go for it. Just trying to catch possible issues. Good luck
malawinovice
Member
Will this work?
I am going to built a 120 stand. I plan on using one 2 x4 to span the front 48 inches.
I glue a face board of 1/2 x 6 inch oak across the front to help share the load. Then I on top of the entire rim of the 2x4 box, I use 1/2 inch x 4 oak to have a flat pedistal and finish edge for the tank. It does not hid the plastic trim, it sits flat on the 2x4's.
It worked great for my 75 gallon tank. I am trying to replicate the design for the 75.
Also in the corners I used only a single 2x4, and no nailing strips.
Any thoughts?
I am going to built a 120 stand. I plan on using one 2 x4 to span the front 48 inches.
I glue a face board of 1/2 x 6 inch oak across the front to help share the load. Then I on top of the entire rim of the 2x4 box, I use 1/2 inch x 4 oak to have a flat pedistal and finish edge for the tank. It does not hid the plastic trim, it sits flat on the 2x4's.
It worked great for my 75 gallon tank. I am trying to replicate the design for the 75.
Also in the corners I used only a single 2x4, and no nailing strips.
Any thoughts?
TheFishMan65
New member
2x4 will work if there is nothing longer than 48 inches. As long as each top rail sits on a 2x4 you should be good. So as I read what you want to do it sounds good to me, but I did not completely understand the order. Do you have a picture?
malawinovice
Member
The 2x4 on the front side tank has a 1/2 x 6 inch oak board as a cosmetic cover.
On top, as a rim for the entire top box of 2x4, is a 1/2 x 4 oak board.
This is how I built a stand for my 75 and I get some pics.
thans;
On top, as a rim for the entire top box of 2x4, is a 1/2 x 4 oak board.
This is how I built a stand for my 75 and I get some pics.
thans;
TheFishMan65
New member
Sound like the oak is decorative. So as long as the frame is build correctly you are fine.
