DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Hello Liz,
It's a 180g peninsula style setup. Here is the drain and closed-loop setup that I went with:
I am doing a peninsula style tank too - 96 x 20x 18. I didn't go closed loop though - maybe I should have?
What are you using for a closed loop pump? What are the dimensions of your tank?
The big orange box store.
Nice set-up! Great buy on the pump too!
I am trying to do my tank on min. electrical use - so I am very careful in what equipment I pick.
I think with power heads strategically placed I would be using less electricity than a closed loop pump?
I have a question. I just got done building the base of my stand. The tank is a standard 125 gallon 72.5x18.5x23. I made the stand 73x19x36. my question is is my stand going to be stable or will it tip over easy. I have three kids and I can't have a tank falling over on one of them. The reason I made it so tall is to ensure I have room for a skimmer underneath. Thanks
Brian
Brian
TheFishMan65
New member
Mine is roughly the same size, but only has a 75 on it. The height is 35 inches tall and IMHO no risk of tipping over.
TheFishMan65
New member
I did not wrap mine in plywood, but I am keeping a careful eye on it. I also ysed 4x4 in the corners that some say have a better chance of warping. I believe the OP said that plywood was optional.
pmsmith2032
New member
Questions on a 55 Gallon Stand
Questions on a 55 Gallon Stand
I am brand new to this site and have a couple of questions. I read the first 20 or so pages of the original thread on this topic, but haven't run across the answers to my questions. Anyway, they are:
1. Is there an issue if I am designing the stand frame as the original, but have made the frame 1" wider on all four sides (the tank will be approximately 48" long by 13" wide and the stand is 50" by 15")? I have added two 12" cross beams to the top for added support, and the top will be cover with 1/2" oak plywood. The reson I'm asking is because I have not bought a tank yet, and am just going off standard 55 gallon tank dimesnions. I added 1" on each side just in case the tank I buy is slightly larger than standard.
2. Is 32" a good height for a 55 gallon tank? It may be sitting on carpet/pad (not sure where we're putting the tank yet), so I want it as stable as possible. I've contemplated adding another 2x4 frame around the base to give it added stability, but not sure if this is a good idea.
3. Is there any issues with adding a 2x4 upright from the botttom of the frame to the top, half way down the length? I know it isn't neceassary for strength, but I think it would make it easier to add the plywood skin between the two front doors.
Thanks in advance!
Questions on a 55 Gallon Stand
I am brand new to this site and have a couple of questions. I read the first 20 or so pages of the original thread on this topic, but haven't run across the answers to my questions. Anyway, they are:
1. Is there an issue if I am designing the stand frame as the original, but have made the frame 1" wider on all four sides (the tank will be approximately 48" long by 13" wide and the stand is 50" by 15")? I have added two 12" cross beams to the top for added support, and the top will be cover with 1/2" oak plywood. The reson I'm asking is because I have not bought a tank yet, and am just going off standard 55 gallon tank dimesnions. I added 1" on each side just in case the tank I buy is slightly larger than standard.
2. Is 32" a good height for a 55 gallon tank? It may be sitting on carpet/pad (not sure where we're putting the tank yet), so I want it as stable as possible. I've contemplated adding another 2x4 frame around the base to give it added stability, but not sure if this is a good idea.
3. Is there any issues with adding a 2x4 upright from the botttom of the frame to the top, half way down the length? I know it isn't neceassary for strength, but I think it would make it easier to add the plywood skin between the two front doors.
Thanks in advance!
613reefguy
New member
Help?
Help?
Am I ever glad to have stumbled upon this thread. Its always nice to find the original place to find the right answers. Someone had sent me a link showing the original drawing, but I read it WAY wrong. I built my 36" stand out of 2x6, for the entire thing.
After reading all of this, am I wrong to assume that I do not need to use the 2x6 on the bottom, or for the legs and nailing surface? Using the 2x6 everywhere has made for a very very tight fit for my sump, and I would really like to have as much room as possible down there to be able to get in and fix things easily. Getting in there and fixing things easy...has anyone ever used a sliding track down below so they can pull their sump out? Similar to what you would see in the backs of pick up trucks.
See how easy I can get side tracked....damn it.
So I am going to rebuild my 36", and I also have a 60" to build at the same time. No harm in 2x6 for the 36, but should I got 2x8 for the top frame of the 60"? Will I need to carry the weight of the 120 gallon from the middle to the floor, or will the 2x8's transfer the load at the corners? The entire rest of this stand can be built with 2x4 right? Does it matter which way the inside nailing surface faces? Can I flip it so the wide side is on the side of the stand to give me an extra few inches down below?
I would also like to make the top and sides slightly deeper. I want to be able to box in my plumbing so that the cabinet can sit flush against the wall, and you cant see the plumbing. I would like to use good plywood to box off the 3-4"behind the tank, and run that up to the canopy, so you can't see any of the plumbing (wouldnt mind some kind of hinge should I need to get back there at all.)
This brings me to my next questions....Is there a good DIY canopy build on here that will go along with this stand?
I have the basics, I just need to know how I can cut back on these stands to allow for more room below. I do plan on switching things around a little bit, but nothing structural. I want to add some shelving on the outside, and possibly attach a frag tank stand which will sit lower than my DT, for easy plumbing.
Whats up with pocket drilling? Does this have to be done, or are pilot holes sufficient? I didnt pilot hole this last attempt, and wood was splitting (Lesson learned)
Thank you everyone.
The stand in the pictures is 36 5/8" x18 5/8", the entire thing stands about 29" higher.....I am raising that height for sure moving forward.
Help?
Am I ever glad to have stumbled upon this thread. Its always nice to find the original place to find the right answers. Someone had sent me a link showing the original drawing, but I read it WAY wrong. I built my 36" stand out of 2x6, for the entire thing.
After reading all of this, am I wrong to assume that I do not need to use the 2x6 on the bottom, or for the legs and nailing surface? Using the 2x6 everywhere has made for a very very tight fit for my sump, and I would really like to have as much room as possible down there to be able to get in and fix things easily. Getting in there and fixing things easy...has anyone ever used a sliding track down below so they can pull their sump out? Similar to what you would see in the backs of pick up trucks.
See how easy I can get side tracked....damn it.
So I am going to rebuild my 36", and I also have a 60" to build at the same time. No harm in 2x6 for the 36, but should I got 2x8 for the top frame of the 60"? Will I need to carry the weight of the 120 gallon from the middle to the floor, or will the 2x8's transfer the load at the corners? The entire rest of this stand can be built with 2x4 right? Does it matter which way the inside nailing surface faces? Can I flip it so the wide side is on the side of the stand to give me an extra few inches down below?
I would also like to make the top and sides slightly deeper. I want to be able to box in my plumbing so that the cabinet can sit flush against the wall, and you cant see the plumbing. I would like to use good plywood to box off the 3-4"behind the tank, and run that up to the canopy, so you can't see any of the plumbing (wouldnt mind some kind of hinge should I need to get back there at all.)
This brings me to my next questions....Is there a good DIY canopy build on here that will go along with this stand?
I have the basics, I just need to know how I can cut back on these stands to allow for more room below. I do plan on switching things around a little bit, but nothing structural. I want to add some shelving on the outside, and possibly attach a frag tank stand which will sit lower than my DT, for easy plumbing.
Whats up with pocket drilling? Does this have to be done, or are pilot holes sufficient? I didnt pilot hole this last attempt, and wood was splitting (Lesson learned)
Thank you everyone.
The stand in the pictures is 36 5/8" x18 5/8", the entire thing stands about 29" higher.....I am raising that height for sure moving forward.
Attachments
TheFishMan65
New member
2x4 will work with the 36 inch tank
2x6 will work for the 60 inch tank
pocket screws are not needed.
When expanding the back the four sides that support the tank must (should) be on 2x4 legs.
Did I get everything.
2x6 will work for the 60 inch tank
pocket screws are not needed.
When expanding the back the four sides that support the tank must (should) be on 2x4 legs.
Did I get everything.
613reefguy
New member
I think you got it all in short form, which is the opposite of my very long posts 
when you say 2x4 andd 2x6 is fine, you mean strictly for the top frame correct? Its 2x4 that is used everywhere else right? This will actually save me a fair amount of room if that is the case.
I understand what you mean about carrying the weight down in the corners. The back section will simply be tied into an already properly structured stand. I plan on keeping that simple, same with my little side stands. (going to use tee-nuts on the side stands so that things can come apart should I ever move.)
when you say 2x4 andd 2x6 is fine, you mean strictly for the top frame correct? Its 2x4 that is used everywhere else right? This will actually save me a fair amount of room if that is the case.
I understand what you mean about carrying the weight down in the corners. The back section will simply be tied into an already properly structured stand. I plan on keeping that simple, same with my little side stands. (going to use tee-nuts on the side stands so that things can come apart should I ever move.)
613reefguy
New member
Good canopy DIY?
TheFishMan65
New member
Yes only the top frame needs the larger support.
Sorry no Canopy design. There have been some posted in this thread, but don't remember how long ago.
Sorry no Canopy design. There have been some posted in this thread, but don't remember how long ago.
