This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=14306359#post14306359
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14266627#post14266627 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by james3370
at least here, lowes wood also was much straighter & the edges were much more square instead of rounded-over
DIY Stands Template and Calculator The reason for starting this thread is to provide a template for a relatively simple DIY stand design. This design is a compilation of several designs into one place and includes the calculations needed to generate a cut list for any custom design.
The basic principle of the design is two box frames connected by four legs. The upper one supports the tank and transfers the load to the legs. The legs are made of several pieces of 2X4 to assist in construction and sheathing the stand in plywood for strength and cosmetics. The bottom frame transmits the load of the tank into the floor.
Design notes:
*The plan for this stand consists of 21 pieces. Like color pieces are the same length and of the same board size.
*The box frames are screwed together first, then the legs are built off the bottom frame, the top frame is then placed on top and secured to the legs.
*The green pieces are screw strips. These provide limited load strength but serve to make assembly easier and help keep the stand square.
*The blue piece between the upper rails (red) works to keep the upper rails from twisting.
Ok, now to the cut list:
First off: The calculations below are based off of a stand that is "W" inches wide X "D" inches front-to-back X "H" inches high.
(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.
(2) Yellow - Upper Ends: Length = D-3"
Theses will be made of the same material as the upper rails.
(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = H-2" These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.
(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.
(2) Orange - Bottom Rails: Length = W
These 2X4s act to spread the weight of the tank over a larger area.
(3) Blue - Bottom Ends: Length = D-3"
Covering the sides of the stand with plywood will help to stiffen the stand against twisting and shifting. Doors can be mounted to the legs as desired.
So there it is. 21 pieces in 6 lengths equals a tank stand that should fit the bill for most people. There are other plans out there but this is a simple design using simple tools and common wood sizes. It may not suit everyone's application but it should fit the bill for most common size tanks. Should someone wish to have me calculate beam strengths for a specific application, PM me with the tank dimensions and I will be happy to run the numbers.
Happy building.
Thanks. Moving is easy. My wife and I moved it pretty easily.<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14319161#post14319161 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 4jlong
jpc763 Nice stand! out of curiousity, is it difficult for two people to move?
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14306863#post14306863 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
Pocket drilling the legs (purple) can eliminate the need for the screw strip (green) but I would make sure to skin the stand on three sides to keep it from racking/twisting. Also, be sure to screw both leg pieces together on the corner for added strength.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14321067#post14321067 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by audiophile42
Is pocket drilling just screwing two pieces of wood together at an angle, like this?
I'm planning a 90g, 48"x18", and having the screw strip in the plan limits my choice of sumps to fit underneath the stand. So if I could get away with not having those, I'm all for it.
Also, would I need to place 2x4's underneath the frame of the sump? Or will having a 1/2" sheet of plywood above the bottom frame of the stand be enough?
Great thread btw RocketEngineer, you've probably helped hundreds of people with their stands.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14321786#post14321786 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LoneRegister
almost?
there's gotta be a story there...
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14306863#post14306863 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
Pocket drilling the legs (purple) can eliminate the need for the screw strip (green) but I would make sure to skin the stand on three sides to keep it from racking/twisting. Also, be sure to screw both leg pieces together on the corner for added strength.
I used Pine on my tank..Works just fine..Alot of those factory built ones are made from Pine anyway<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14322135#post14322135 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dallasg
hi, what would be the best would to use? is pine ok? or too soft
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14398975#post14398975 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chimmike
okay, since it didn't register yesterday,
I'm building one of these stands but it'll be going on an uneven floor.
Is it okay to utilize leveling feet at the 4 corners? Or am I going to have a weight distribution problem? And by feet, I mean carriage bolts.
75g tank, stand built slightly oversized.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14399983#post14399983 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by james3370
i believe i have read in the split thread that leveling feet are bad since they concentrate all the weight on those 4 points.....best to try & shim it if the gap is small, or if it is a larger gap, your best bet is to plane it till you get it level