DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
moondoggy4
Team RC
sit on
sit on
sit on
I would not have the oak touch the ground. Just put a paint stir stick( for spacing) between the ground and the oak you will not see the 2x4 behind it.
Kurt03
Active member
Built round a 2x4 framework...
Im building a new stand for my 150g tank that is 72x18x28 and think I have decided on the design. It should allow me to finish the outside of the stand right against the wall so that you cant see behind the tank.
So I should use 2x6's for the top rails and the following statement from the beginning of the thread for the vertical boards stays true?,
(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.
If I was running a wave box or something similar what would you recommend changing or beefing up if anything? Is there anything you would change for the above design?
I finished my frame like 25 minutes ago... heres my final, well balanced, level, frame. The glue looks messy but hey its just the frame and I will be skinning it hopefully on the 20th. I did have a question though. When I skin the frame with 1/4" oak do i do so with finishing nails? or do I use a 1 inch screw? I did grab some wood filler so if i need to screw thats fine. Just wondering whats best.
Rhodophyta
New member
Glue and clamp with wood blocks on the oak face to protect the finish wood from marks and since it's thin, to spread the clamping effect. Gorilla or Ultimate glue seem well suited to this. Screws, brads, or finish nails will not hold on the skin well since it will double as stand bracing and there will be stress on the skin lateral to any screws or nails, the direction they are least able to cope with.
lag bolts necessary?
lag bolts necessary?
Hi, using your design for a 215 gal Oceanic tank dimensions 72" L x 30" H x 24" D. I will be using 2"x8" 's for the top frame and 2"x4" 's for the rest of the frame. I was planning on using deck screws to put the whole thing together but a friend mentioned that using lag bolts would add additional strength due to shear rating vs the screws. Is this necessary or warranted?
thanks,
Frank
lag bolts necessary?
Hi, using your design for a 215 gal Oceanic tank dimensions 72" L x 30" H x 24" D. I will be using 2"x8" 's for the top frame and 2"x4" 's for the rest of the frame. I was planning on using deck screws to put the whole thing together but a friend mentioned that using lag bolts would add additional strength due to shear rating vs the screws. Is this necessary or warranted?
thanks,
Frank
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Editour2,
If you are relying on the screws to transfer the weight as in the case of mounting a deck to a house, then lag screws are the propper fastener to use. For the case of this build, the uprights are directly between the top and bottom frames and therefore the load is not taken by the screws. For this reason, plain deck screws are plenty strong enough.
RocketEngineer
If you are relying on the screws to transfer the weight as in the case of mounting a deck to a house, then lag screws are the propper fastener to use. For the case of this build, the uprights are directly between the top and bottom frames and therefore the load is not taken by the screws. For this reason, plain deck screws are plenty strong enough.
RocketEngineer
Rocket Engineer, thank you for ALL of your help. I have another question relating to any ideas anyone may have. My particular build, with the tank described above, (215 gal Oceanic Ultimate, 72Lx24Dx30H), will involve an "in-wall" installation. The tank will be mounted flush to the display wall. This creates a challenge with the sump which I had planned to place on the stand, (below the tank). The challenge is the following: since approximately 4" of the stand will be taken up in the wall and another 1.5" for center support on the fish room side of the stand there will only be an approximate 18.5" depth clearance for a sump. I want to fit a large sump, (100 gallons minimum). I have been thinking of potential alternatives such as making the stand larger than the 24" depth but I am thinking that this will not be an advantage since I believe the supporting 2x4's still need to be under the main frame, (2"x8" 's). I can't fit a 6' tank under there since the corners will have the additional 2"x4" leaving me even less depth. Any ideas??
Sump Stand
Sump Stand
Thanks for this great thread.
I am planning to build a stand to keep my sump. The sump will be kept at the bottom of the stand and a refugium will be placed on the top. The sump I have is 48"X24"X24". Since the sump is 24" height, I would like to raise the height of the stand to 41". This will give me ample space to reach the stuff within the sump.
I see most build the stand at the height of 30" or 36" at best. What considerations should I take into account if I intend to build a stand at 41" inches height?
Sump Stand
Thanks for this great thread.
I am planning to build a stand to keep my sump. The sump will be kept at the bottom of the stand and a refugium will be placed on the top. The sump I have is 48"X24"X24". Since the sump is 24" height, I would like to raise the height of the stand to 41". This will give me ample space to reach the stuff within the sump.
I see most build the stand at the height of 30" or 36" at best. What considerations should I take into account if I intend to build a stand at 41" inches height?
eran
New member
RocketEngineer or for anyone else for that matter I have a huge issue. I used this template for my stand and for some reason my tank will not sit flush on the to piece of plywood. Here is a picture of what I have going on.
The tank sits flush on all 4 corners but where it is marked in red, the black trim is not sitting on the wood. In the middle of the tank, I would say there is a 3/16" gap that I can actually see under the black trim. The gap lessens as it gets closer to the corners. Do you get what I mean??? I tried to get a clear pic. of it but just couldn't. What should I do??? I had 1/2" blue foam under the tank but took it out. Should I put it back under there or what? Should I try to put shims under the black trim where there is a gap?? I hope I explained it ok. Thanks for the help. There is the same gap on the sides as well. The tank is like perfectly level if that helps.
The tank sits flush on all 4 corners but where it is marked in red, the black trim is not sitting on the wood. In the middle of the tank, I would say there is a 3/16" gap that I can actually see under the black trim. The gap lessens as it gets closer to the corners. Do you get what I mean??? I tried to get a clear pic. of it but just couldn't. What should I do??? I had 1/2" blue foam under the tank but took it out. Should I put it back under there or what? Should I try to put shims under the black trim where there is a gap?? I hope I explained it ok. Thanks for the help. There is the same gap on the sides as well. The tank is like perfectly level if that helps.
MrineLfRlz
Active member
this is the type of tank im looking for i love the overflow connected to the back gives you alot more room in the tank!RocketEngineer or for anyone else for that matter I have a huge issue. I used this template for my stand and for some reason my tank will not sit flush on the to piece of plywood. Here is a picture of what I have going on.
The tank sits flush on all 4 corners but where it is marked in red, the black trim is not sitting on the wood. In the middle of the tank, I would say there is a 3/16" gap that I can actually see under the black trim. The gap lessens as it gets closer to the corners. Do you get what I mean??? I tried to get a clear pic. of it but just couldn't. What should I do??? I had 1/2" blue foam under the tank but took it out. Should I put it back under there or what? Should I try to put shims under the black trim where there is a gap?? I hope I explained it ok. Thanks for the help. There is the same gap on the sides as well. The tank is like perfectly level if that helps.
can you tell me the maker of it?
thanks
reefermad619
New member
Hi guys. Great thread. I figured I would ask this question here with all the woodworking and wood strength experts here. I got this stand from a friend. It's for a 80 gallon regular glass tank (48"x18"x23") that he had set up at his place. It has no 2x4s, screws, or wood glue at all. It's held in place like a puzzle with theses wooden pieces.
The main piece locks in place.
Close up of locking in.
Bottom of top piece.
Only thing in back is this 3/4"x6" piece.
Complete set-up from back.
Complete set up from front.
The whole thing is made of 3/4" wood. Is it safe? I don't want a flood! Thanks for the help guys.
The main piece locks in place.
Close up of locking in.
Bottom of top piece.
Only thing in back is this 3/4"x6" piece.
Complete set-up from back.
Complete set up from front.
The whole thing is made of 3/4" wood. Is it safe? I don't want a flood! Thanks for the help guys.
Rhodophyta
New member
reefermad619, it is solid enough, but there is already water damage inside the stand. I would paint and seal the back and insides with an epoxy paint. If it was set up before as a freshwater tank, the potential damage from salt water and salt spray would be more severe than what is pictured here.
reefermad619
New member
My boy had it set-up full reef for three years.
Rhodophyta
New member
Then it would be good to wash off any salt deposits before painting the inside.
