DIY Stands Template and Calculator

With legs only in the corners, a 2X6 deflects about 5/16" (0.314" for a 77" span). A 2X8 gets you down to 0.13" which is slightly over my 1/8" recommendation. Only at a 2X10 do you get into what I consider safe.

However, a single center leg under the long boards lets you use a 2X4 top frame because the span would only be 36.75" on either side of the center leg.

Lots of options.

RocketEngineer

I have a 100 gallon sump which mean can't slide through the front with center support. Using 2x10 will also limit the height (my stand height ~34"). In your design, you are using two 2x4 for vertical support on each corner. What if I am using one 2x4 and one 2x3 or 2x2, Do you think that structure will support 24x24x84 tank. Again, thank you for your help.
 
I don't think this is possible due to the original post length, but it would be great if there was a Q&A tacked on the beginning because of all the redundant questions not addressed in the original post. This thread has become so big it's not practical to go through every page to see if your question has already been addressed :P

Maybe a 2.0 post needs to be made :D
 
just wanted to check to make sure i have everything correct before i cut the wood for my 150g stand. my main question is should i make the stand the exact dimensions? (72"x18") or should i add a half inch to each? (72.5"x18.5")

here is the cut sheet that i have made up for 72x18

2 - 2x8s 72" red
2 - 2x8s 15" yellow
4 - 2x4s 34" green
8 - 2x4s 25.25" purple
2 - 2x4s 72" orange
3 - 2x4s 15" blue

does this look correct for a 36" tall 150g stand?
 
Hey guys I have a 225 gallon tank that measures 72"Lx24"Wx30"H.

I don't want to over do the stand. Would you recommend me using 2x6 or 2x8 for the top railing?

Thanks!
 
Hey guys I have a 225 gallon tank that measures 72"Lx24"Wx30"H.

I don't want to over do the stand. Would you recommend me using 2x6 or 2x8 for the top railing?

Thanks!

A 2X8 top frame would do fine. The 2X6 just isn't strong enough at 65" (72-3.5-3.5).

RocketEngineer
 
This thread has been great, here is my 3rd stand using these blueprints. This is my biggest one yet, I spent a good hour picking out the straightest wood I could find and still had issues when it came to the actual build getting everything lined up. This is for a 96x30 tank.

Has anyone found the best way to add something to the bottom to get it up off the floor a bit? I'm on tile and would love to have a little room underneath to clean up spills etc.

I would also suggest a pocket hole jig, I know they have been mentioned before but they are awesome for this kinda stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocke...F8&qid=1350612361&sr=1-1&keywords=pocket+hole

88E3C95F-8FD3-4AC3-B3E5-FDC752539EFC-3020-0000049488225A11_zpsf29c8761.jpg


32B509D2-AE5D-4238-9F69-EC96EE30B49B-3020-0000049473376F37_zps98d88ceb.jpg
 
Joshua is hat a 2x6 top frame? I read that anything over six feet,has to be done with a 2x8 box frame. Otherwise really nice work. Are you going to show how you skin it?
 
This thread has been great, here is my 3rd stand using these blueprints. This is my biggest one yet, I spent a good hour picking out the straightest wood I could find and still had issues when it came to the actual build getting everything lined up. This is for a 96x30 tank.

Has anyone found the best way to add something to the bottom to get it up off the floor a bit? I'm on tile and would love to have a little room underneath to clean up spills etc.

I would also suggest a pocket hole jig, I know they have been mentioned before but they are awesome for this kinda stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocke...F8&qid=1350612361&sr=1-1&keywords=pocket+hole

What size pocket screws should be used for this project?

Kreg jigs work great. I noticed a few weeks ago that they have a new setup for working in 1-1/2" materials:Kreg Jig HD

I spotted it in the local box store. It uses longer/larger screws to handle the 2X material. FYI, I only use Kreg screws because they are specifically designed for use in pocket holes. If you use standard flat head screws, the cone shape under the head will split the wood.

HTH,
RocketEngineer
 
A 2X8 top frame would do fine. The 2X6 just isn't strong enough at 65" (72-3.5-3.5).

RocketEngineer


RocketEngineer: What about if I use a 2x6 top frame but support with a middle verticle brace in the middle with a 2x4 or 2x6, similar like the picture shown by JoshaG? Would that work?
 
I've got probably a simple question.

I am going to build a stand for my yet to be picked up 120 gallon tank. I am getting it used, but the seller can't seem to get me exact measurements of the tank. He did tell me 25" x 48" (height doesn't matter obviously) for the width and depth.

Some aquarium manufacturers show 24" x 48" in their description, but I think that is the glass, and not the base trim of the tank. Another manufacturer shows 24.5" x 48.5"

So what should I use for my measurements for the top? I want to build the stand and have it skinned/finished prior to picking up the tank in a little over a week. I don't want to go with a plywood top if at all possible.

I am sure that DIY people make them as precise as possible, but aren't pre-made stands built with a little extra length/depth to accommodate slightly different tank dimensions (24" vs. 24.5" for example)?

I've tried to get more specific measurements, but the I am starting to think that the seller doesn't own a tape measure or a ruler...

Thanks
 
Thanks Kim.

What if I want to put some "trim" up above the top surface of the stand (to hide the bottom plastic trim of the aquarium itself)? Will that leave enough wiggle room to get the tank in place, but not too much to be a large gap? Maybe I will was to put that on after I actually have the tank. I can always shim it or shave it to fit better... I was just hoping to have it all done before I got the tank, but I guess I really need more exact measurements for this guy...
 
Would you recomend doing a DIY stand for a tank 130 inches long. I want it to look a certain way just scared about the shear size and weight of the tank the exact dimensions are 130x24.5x30.5. i would really like the bottom of the stand to be open no doors so that i can see everything any ideas?
 
Wow. That would be one heck of a span for that size tank (400 gallon). I've built a number of structures in my life (outside of tank stands) and even if you braced the back length, your "open" area in the front would need to be greatly reduced or some serious support material run.

Think about it this way. Estimating around the LOW end, the tank with water will weigh about 4600 pounds. The footprint of it is about 20 sqft, that comes to 230 pounds per square foot of weight MINIMUM. The average single story home weigh about 200 pounds per square foot, however a bulk of that weight is carried on the exterior walls and interior load bearing walls that have a LOT of support going straight down to the ground, PLUS the joists are typically engineered and even when using I-beams and engineered wood, still take some big joists to support the load, and again in the main part of the house it is a LOT less than 200 pounds per sqft, and a lot less than the minimum 230 pounds per sqft of the proposed tank.

If you really wanted to do it, I would be leaning towards a DIY metal stand with some metal beam across the front. Unless you know how to work with metal and can weld, this will require someone else with that equipment and skills.

Sorry.
 
Wow. That would be one heck of a span for that size tank (400 gallon). I've built a number of structures in my life (outside of tank stands) and even if you braced the back length, your "open" area in the front would need to be greatly reduced or some serious support material run.

Think about it this way. Estimating around the LOW end, the tank with water will weigh about 4600 pounds. The footprint of it is about 20 sqft, that comes to 230 pounds per square foot of weight MINIMUM. The average single story home weigh about 200 pounds per square foot, however a bulk of that weight is carried on the exterior walls and interior load bearing walls that have a LOT of support going straight down to the ground, PLUS the joists are typically engineered and even when using I-beams and engineered wood, still take some big joists to support the load, and again in the main part of the house it is a LOT less than 200 pounds per sqft, and a lot less than the minimum 230 pounds per sqft of the proposed tank.

If you really wanted to do it, I would be leaning towards a DIY metal stand with some metal beam across the front. Unless you know how to work with metal and can weld, this will require someone else with that equipment and skills.

Sorry.

No reason to apologize. The stand that comes with the tank i dont like. So i was trying to go DIY (more for the cost aspect). Im trying to figure out something i could do. I went to my LFS and they had this awesome looking wood stand on their tanks but their tanks are only 125 gallons. No where near the size of this tank. I know some metal fabricators but again even with the friend discount it would cost around $500 which is not bad but if I could do it for 150 why not save the money. So if i did not do the "open look" is there a way i could DIY one of this size?? or should i just spend the 680 its going to cost to get the stand that comes with it?
 
No reason to apologize. The stand that comes with the tank i dont like. So i was trying to go DIY (more for the cost aspect). Im trying to figure out something i could do. I went to my LFS and they had this awesome looking wood stand on their tanks but their tanks are only 125 gallons. No where near the size of this tank. I know some metal fabricators but again even with the friend discount it would cost around $500 which is not bad but if I could do it for 150 why not save the money. So if i did not do the "open look" is there a way i could DIY one of this size?? or should i just spend the 680 its going to cost to get the stand that comes with it?

It is possible to build a wood stand this size. What you need to do is have at least one center brace. If you could tolerate two center supports along the 130" dimension, then the lumber necessary would be reduced further.

Could you explain what you are after concerning the "open look"?

RocketEngineer
 
Yea. I hear you on the cost.

If you can sacrafice the "open" space in the front then it would be a different ball game.
 
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