DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Plenty strong enough. Is the top surface perfectly true? Not something plywood will fix.
noles198355
New member
Will 1x4's work for my 65g (36x20x21) if i follow the same design on the 1st page? Top and sides would be 1/2 plywood. Pocket screws and wood glue for all joints? Open back and removable front panel? 2x4's seem like overkill and i need to save space.
nogascans
Member
Bowfront Stand
Bowfront Stand
I have enjoyed reading this very extensive thread, but I did not (or missed it) find any information that might help me to design/build a new stand for my bowfront 90 gallon euro design tank.
I understand the need to support the tank at its support along the bottom with the underlying stand supports all the way to the floor. How might I accomplish this with the curved front?
Currently I do not have a sump (HOB SRXPS100), and would like to have an area for at least the biopellet reactor, GFO, and a exterior pump for these as well as some additional return flow. Refugium would be nice, but not necessary for now if room cannot provide a decent tank size.
I currently have a stand like attached, with both sides exposed, and center with glass door large enough for a bucket of salt (used as drain for skimmer cup).
Any thoughts?
thanks in advance.
Sincerely,
David
Bowfront Stand
I have enjoyed reading this very extensive thread, but I did not (or missed it) find any information that might help me to design/build a new stand for my bowfront 90 gallon euro design tank.
I understand the need to support the tank at its support along the bottom with the underlying stand supports all the way to the floor. How might I accomplish this with the curved front?
Currently I do not have a sump (HOB SRXPS100), and would like to have an area for at least the biopellet reactor, GFO, and a exterior pump for these as well as some additional return flow. Refugium would be nice, but not necessary for now if room cannot provide a decent tank size.
I currently have a stand like attached, with both sides exposed, and center with glass door large enough for a bucket of salt (used as drain for skimmer cup).
Any thoughts?
thanks in advance.
Sincerely,
David
Attachments
Read through all of first post and some after split. I apologize if I missed it, but couldn't find anything in regards to whether these plans would work on larger cubes. Planning a 48x48x28 rimless glass cube. Will 2x6 top frame, 2x4 bottom frame suffice without center brace? How many crossbars? What program is everyone using to design plans?
Thanks!
Thanks!
DavidinGA
Active member
I just bought a 6ft 210gal and need to build a stand.
I just read through the first couple of pages so forgive me if this is redundant (I'm sure it is)
I was going to build RocketEngineer's basic stand in his very first post and like many others I have some reservations on have a braceless 6ft stand.
Would I be okay running a 2x6 top frame and 2x4 corners like his drawing or should I use 2x6 corners to shorten the gap in the front where their is no center brace??? If I used 2x6 corners I would only have a 60" gap in the front instead of a 64" gap if I were to use 2x4 corners (now how much additional strength is 4" gonna give me?)
I just read through the first couple of pages so forgive me if this is redundant (I'm sure it is)
I was going to build RocketEngineer's basic stand in his very first post and like many others I have some reservations on have a braceless 6ft stand.
Would I be okay running a 2x6 top frame and 2x4 corners like his drawing or should I use 2x6 corners to shorten the gap in the front where their is no center brace??? If I used 2x6 corners I would only have a 60" gap in the front instead of a 64" gap if I were to use 2x4 corners (now how much additional strength is 4" gonna give me?)
There are a few spots that i can fit a card in-between (see below) the card is slightly thinner than a credit card is this a problem and if so how do i fix?
Hoping I can get the answer, thank youThere are a few spots that i can fit a card in-between (see below) the card is slightly thinner than a credit card is this a problem and if so how do i fix?
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Is that with the tank full or empty? I ask because as you load the stand things will settle slightly. If you still have them with the tank full, I would find the high spots and hit them with a belt sander to get it totally flat. Also, check the tank as the plastic trim may be the issue.
moondoggy4
Team RC
moondoggy4
Team RC
look
look
Look at post 2661 for ideas on how to build a cube beef it up with 2x6 on top.
look
Look at post 2661 for ideas on how to build a cube beef it up with 2x6 on top.
is this ok?
is this ok?
I have a 30" X 24" X 24" tall rimless tank. I had a friend who built me a stand but the frame is 31 x 25 x 33 tall so its a full inch longer and wider. It was made out of 2 x 4's and has a center brace. Is it ok that the stand is longer and wider then the tank or do we need to either start over or add 2 x 4's to the inside of the frame to re-enforce it.
is this ok?
I have a 30" X 24" X 24" tall rimless tank. I had a friend who built me a stand but the frame is 31 x 25 x 33 tall so its a full inch longer and wider. It was made out of 2 x 4's and has a center brace. Is it ok that the stand is longer and wider then the tank or do we need to either start over or add 2 x 4's to the inside of the frame to re-enforce it.
FuzzyZipperbaum
New member
Rocket...if I use 1" wide LVL can I get away with spaning 92" with 8" or 10" thick???? thanks
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Honestly I would rather use a pair of 1X2s in an L shape over a 2X2 because the shape gives it more stability. I might want a 1X3 for the top and bottom frames but that depends on how you want to finish it.
If the tank sits in the middle of the 2X you don't need anything else.
You need to look at the specs of the LVL. There are many different kinds with a range of strength/stiffness values. It might be fine but more information would help make that determination.
