DIY Stands Template and Calculator

just finished applying the first coat of Kilz to the inside of my 180 gallon stand I made using this thread and Morrowss's design. I made some small modifications like closing off the back and adding a partition at the 52" mark inside so i could have a dry storage area separate from the sump area. I'm stuck on the doors, such a pain to make. will probably just order prefabbed ones.
 
Ok everyone, I'm looking for insight on a 48/48/24 cube that is ACRYLIC. I need help on stand design and lumber needed. Since it is acrylic and the bottom needs supported, it is 6ft corner to corner diagonal, shouldn't I support e center of the tank as well?
Corey
 
Made my stand to tall? Any suggestions on how to lower it about 6" -8" ?
 

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Stand Design

Stand Design

Hello all!

Would someone be kind enough to please look over my stand design.
I plan on ordering a 270 LeeMar tank in the coming weeks/months.
The stand is 6'L x 3'W x 40"T.
The top frame is made up of 2x6's and the rest are 2x4's.
Is it overkill?
Did I leave something out?
Would you change anything?

picture.php


Thanks!!
 
Lou Cifer said:
Hello all!

Would someone be kind enough to please look over my stand design.
I plan on ordering a 270 LeeMar tank in the coming weeks/months.
The stand is 6'L x 3'W x 40"T.
The top frame is made up of 2x6's and the rest are 2x4's.
Is it overkill?
Did I leave something out?
Would you change anything?

picture.php


Thanks!!
Click to expand...

Your design looks good. A bit overkill, but good none the less.

I know it's been discussed (argued) in this thread previously, but the stand below was built with 3/4" plywood and a single 2x6 across the front to span the doors. Good luck with the build.

null_zpsa173c40c.jpg
 
Yeah, I saw that. The design I used just seems a lot easier to build.
Another question for whoever can answer.
Can I get rid of the front center upright and perhaps go with 2 in the back?
 
You can eliminate the front center support, but not by adding one to the back.

Double the horizontal front piece, sandwiching a half inch to one inch plywood piece between them. For really long open spans you could use steel plate instead of plywood but then you run into problems with expansion and corrosion that are better avoided.
 
tippmannsniper said:
you'll be fine to sister them together.. add some liquid nail and ample amount of clamps, screw it together, then post pictures!
Click to expand...

Clamping does help with strength of the bond. I use dock adhesive for two reasons. It is rated stronger than liquid nail level products. It is nontoxic enough to be used in constructing something in contact with water and not kill the fish in the lake.
 
Stand for 24X24X24 3/4 inch Reef Savvy

Stand for 24X24X24 3/4 inch Reef Savvy

RocketEngineer et al,
I have been reading a lot of great information on this thread and I feel I am ready to take a plunge as someone with no experience in building anything. I want to build a stand that is 48X28X31 that will hold my tank so that I can put in my sump, ATO container and future equipment. I have a basic concept but wanted to solicit ideas on framing design for this setup. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
Where is best place to buy lumber. I'm in central Ohio and wondering if HD, lowes, or menards is really my best option or a lumber yard is better
Corey
 
biecacka see my post 2618 I found going to the trades to get your lumber to be better I would bring in my measurements and they would cut it to size, I would ask for lumber that is going to be used for patio covers and have it all re-sawed, four cuts per piece. So you could have a 2 x8 cut down the middle and have two 2 x 4's then cut to length. For my 120 build the lumber was 30 bucks or something cheap.
I have also used the engineered wood and really like it no warping at all, I would ask them which tpye can be used for what application, ie down force or spanning a length. For my 40 breeder, the engineered wood cost 21 bucks for 21 feet.
 
Question:

I have a normal sized 72" long 180 gallon tank that I'm just starting to setup. I'd like to be able to build the stand and not have a center brace in the front. If I build the top frame out of 2x6's and sister the front will that be ok providing I support the ends properly? The back and the ends will not be doubled up but the back will be braced. I'll also have joists going front to back hung with joist hangers.

I've looked through 99% of the thread and can't seem to find a clear answer....
 
Here is a question I haven't seen tackled yet...but I have only read 40 pages of the bazillion on this thread....

What about the weight distribution on the floor of the tank?

I am putting a tank on the second floor (starting a build thread and will post the stand pics soon...the stand is 20' long...) the floor is travertine 24x24 tile with concrete underneath...followed of course by plywood over the trusts.... If I want to distribute as much weight as possible to all areas of the floor... do I want to put a piece of plywood underneath the tank or just have the 2 bys sit directly on the floor.... I would guess from a compression stand point it shouldn't matter?
 
FuzzyZipperbaum said:
Here is a question I haven't seen tackled yet...but I have only read 40 pages of the bazillion on this thread....

What about the weight distribution on the floor of the tank?

I am putting a tank on the second floor (starting a build thread and will post the stand pics soon...the stand is 20' long...) the floor is travertine 24x24 tile with concrete underneath...followed of course by plywood over the trusts.... If I want to distribute as much weight as possible to all areas of the floor... do I want to put a piece of plywood underneath the tank or just have the 2 bys sit directly on the floor.... I would guess from a compression stand point it shouldn't matter?
Click to expand...

To maximize support you want the long dimension of the tank to cross as many trusses as possible. Also, the tank should be against an outside wall or internal load bearing wall. If you have to shim the stand do so along its entire length to distribute the load as much as possible.

HTH,
 
RocketEngineer said:
To maximize support you want the long dimension of the tank to cross as many trusses as possible. Also, the tank should be against an outside wall or internal load bearing wall. If you have to shim the stand do so along its entire length to distribute the load as much as possible.

HTH,
Click to expand...

Thanks RE.... I am going to post my design tonight and I would love for you to take a look at it....However, my question is do I put the stand directly on top of the tile or do I put any sheets of plywood underneath the stand and the floor?
 
Midnightt said:
Question:

I have a normal sized 72" long 180 gallon tank that I'm just starting to setup. I'd like to be able to build the stand and not have a center brace in the front. If I build the top frame out of 2x6's and sister the front will that be ok providing I support the ends properly? The back and the ends will not be doubled up but the back will be braced. I'll also have joists going front to back hung with joist hangers.

I've looked through 99% of the thread and can't seem to find a clear answer....
Click to expand...

Anybody? All I could find was around page 107. Just didn't see how the inner shell was build.

Thanks again!
 
Question on center braces

Question on center braces

so i built my stand based on RE's and Morrow's design but modified it a bit to include a dry area separated by a wall. anyway my tank was delivered a few hours ago by my LFS fish and other icthy stuff, and i just noticed the center braces are not directly under the tanks braces. i do show they are thicker and seem to hold a load. i was wondering if i should move the center braces over? as you can see i have already removed the kreg screws but it is too late for me to start banging a mallet under there.

20130328_213041.jpg
 
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