DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[leviburns89]

ive tried, the boards themselves are fine but once they are together they are never completely flat. :headwalls: i dont remember it being this big of a problem last time i built a stand....

As a professional carpenter, I can assure you that there is no such thing as a perfectly plumb frame. Shims must always be implemented.

I have built million dollar homes, and for the last 2 years have worked as a lead carpenter on a billion dollar tv show.

The moral of the story, shims are always needed. Even if you strike a 1 in a million chance of being perfectly plum, you will have to add the variable of having the same 1 in a million odd of having an equally level floor/substrate.

Save yourself the headache, use some framing shims.

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[Kbel1969]

What kind/type of wood would you use if you wanted a very smooth kitchen cabinet type painted look?

It seems that even if you use sanded plywood - if still doesn't look like painted kitchen cabinets.

Sanded is good with the right finish coat. I would use oil based poly, that is your best bet for the smoothest finish. Alway use a good quality China bristle brush, and it will dry like it was sprayed on. The best wood for glass like finish is maple. A little pricey, but if you want a high end look, that's your best bet

 

[Salty150]

Sanded is good with the right finish coat. I would use oil based poly, that is your best bet for the smoothest finish. Alway use a good quality China bristle brush, and it will dry like it was sprayed on. The best wood for glass like finish is maple. A little pricey, but if you want a high end look, that's your best bet

Yes, I have someone who sprays paint professionally - so it would be sprayed on.

I am just trying to get the best wood to use so it looks smooth and like a custom piece of furniture.

I can get that with sanded plywood and the right paint - oil based poly?

 

[Kbel1969]

Yes, I have someone who sprays paint professionally - so it would be sprayed on.

I am just trying to get the best wood to use so it looks smooth and like a custom piece of furniture.

I can get that with sanded plywood and the right paint - oil based poly?

Most certainly, sanded and maple are your two smoothest woods for a super smooth finish without grain marks. I would definitely use oil based, whether it's a paint finish, or a stain with poly. That's the only type I would use for furniture grade. Stay away from water base, it leaves a blotchy finish, and very inconsistent. Hope this helps

 

[BigJohnny]

You should purchase the tank before building the stand for this exact reason. There are several different types of "reef ready" tanks with different hole locations.

Thanks Rocket, I will do that. The only alternative is pocket screws right? Or just only use a screw strip on the other 3 corners, unless that would mess up the stability?

Btw, if my stand is 40" tall do I have to do anything differently than the basic construction plan because it's that tall? I'm actually doing a 90g now with 2x4 framing. Considering 2x6 for the top frame for extra security, just cause with a stand that tall I'll have enough room under regardless.


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[BigJohnny]

As a professional carpenter, I can assure you that there is no such thing as a perfectly plumb frame. Shims must always be implemented.

I have built million dollar homes, and for the last 2 years have worked as a lead carpenter on a billion dollar tv show.

The moral of the story, shims are always needed. Even if you strike a 1 in a million chance of being perfectly plum, you will have to add the variable of having the same 1 in a million odd of having an equally level floor/substrate.

Save yourself the headache, use some framing shims.

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Do you mean shim under the stand or shim within the framing? I assume you mean under the stand (as I have always done) but I've never heard shims called "framing shims". Wonder if I'm missing out on some advanced shimming!

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[Becks]

I decided to build a new stand as the design was different to the posted in this thread and as I started to measure the stand to check its level, it seems the stand is not level and is twisted... I did not build it. I started building its replacment, would 5mm plywood be ok to lay over the top of the tank stand? I intend to use two centre braces on a 4ft long tank. Because my tank is 30" high I would like to cut down on adding height to the tank. As the tank stand has grown about 4" in height already.

Thanks,

 

[BlurrVT]

I'm looking at building one of these stands. 4' 75gal tank. Will use 2x6 for the top frame and use pocket joins instead of the screw strips. I'm only planning on skinning the front with a wood border and doors. The sides will have cabinets flushed up to them and be left open to pass wiring and plumbing through. The rear will be left open for access. Is that ok or will not skinning the frame allow the stand too much possibility of flexing?

 

[Salty150]

OK, serious question...

Would it work if you just bought a manufacturers wood stand and canopy - but then sanded it down and put a wood veneer/thin piece of maple over it and painted it to make it look a lot nicer?

 

[shadow13x]

So I read the first 20 pages and didnt find an answer, so I'll ask it here.

My tank will be sitting in the middle of a room and not up against a wall. How can I make the base/stand more stable? Tank dims are 48.25 x 12.75 @ 55 gallons.

Gino

 

[Kbel1969]

OK, serious question...

Would it work if you just bought a manufacturers wood stand and canopy - but then sanded it down and put a wood veneer/thin piece of maple over it and painted it to make it look a lot nicer?

Yes you could definitely do that. I would use 1/4"for your main panels, but the only problem would be all the trim pieces, and your doors. It would be a lot of work sanding down all the intricate pieces. I guess it depends how fancy a stand you will be getting.

 

[dad1st]

Tank stand build

Tank stand build

I recently purchased a 360 gallon tank and am planning on building my own stand and I'm not sure how iI should build it I want to be able to keep all my electrical separate but yet accessible.
also not sure but am thinking on using a 125 for the sump or buying a new one the one I want is 48"x23.5"x16".
The tank is 8'x4'x18".
can you help me?

 

[RocketEngineer]

So I read the first 20 pages and didnt find an answer, so I'll ask it here.

My tank will be sitting in the middle of a room and not up against a wall. How can I make the base/stand more stable? Tank dims are 48.25 x 12.75 @ 55 gallons.

Gino

First, I recommend you get a different tank as a 55g is notoriously bad as a reef tank because it is tall and narrow. A much better tank would be a 75g as the extra 6" width vastly increases how you can aquascape.

That being said, you could make the stand larger than the tank for added stability. My tank is 18" front-to-back but my stand is 22" with wires and plumbing running in the extra space. You could put the bump out in front of the tank instead of behind it or both. That would give you a more stable stand as well as potential for a larger display tank later.

I recently purchased a 360 gallon tank and am planning on building my own stand and I'm not sure how iI should build it I want to be able to keep all my electrical separate but yet accessible.
also not sure but am thinking on using a 125 for the sump or buying a new one the one I want is 48"x23.5"x16".
The tank is 8'x4'x18".
can you help me?

My first question is how you plan on getting it into the house. At 4' wide, you either need a double door, make the stand short enough to fit through the door, or build it in place.

Because the tank is so long, you will need at least one center brace. This can be used to support both the long boards as well as a middle support running across the width of the tank. At only 16" tall you probably won't need a huge amount of support otherwise.

HTH,

 

[dad1st]

Stank BUild

Stank BUild

Gonna built it 32"Tall because a standard door is 36" wide and that way I'll be able to stand it on it's side to move it in and out of door ways.
Not sure if i want to build it as 1 whole piece or in 3 so it isn't so heavy to carry. I'm not gonna build it in place because I plane on moving in the future.

 

[shadow13x]

First, I recommend you get a different tank as a 55g is notoriously bad as a reef tank because it is tall and narrow. A much better tank would be a 75g as the extra 6" width vastly increases how you can aquascape.

That being said, you could make the stand larger than the tank for added stability. My tank is 18" front-to-back but my stand is 22" with wires and plumbing running in the extra space. You could put the bump out in front of the tank instead of behind it or both. That would give you a more stable stand as well as potential for a larger display tank later.

HTH,

I found the thread looking for stand designs. I wont actually be using this for a reef tank. something much simpler, goldfish.

size matters, and I had not given that much thought. I was thinking of 49" wide x 28.5" deep x 29" tall. I should be able to get that through the door.

does the tank need to sit on the 2x4 rectangle to support it properly? I plan to cover it with .5" plywood and .25" on all sides. my thoughts were to build as you designed and basically add another stand to the front without vertical supports there. excuse my hand drawn mess. my mechanical and architectural drawing teacher would be ****ed at that.

 

[MidTnMike41]

I posted this someone else but someone told me you guys might have a better answer.

I made a rookie mistake about a year ago when I first set my tank up. I bought a sump that fit the equipment I had. Now am wanting better equipment mainly a better skimmer. I am wanting to put a much larger sump tank under my stand so that in the future I don't have problems when it comes to replacing, upgrading, or adding equipment. Has anyone removed the the center port or cut the side out of a stand like this one? I have read many different opinions, I was hoping to hear from someone who has done it. My tank is 90 gallon 48x18x24.

<a href="http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/mabernathy9/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0415161122_zpsqybhn6oy.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/mabernathy9/Mobile%20Uploads/0415161122_zpsqybhn6oy.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 0415161122_zpsqybhn6oy.jpg"/></a>

 

[Desert Sea]

That looks to be one of those stands that comes with the tank as a package. If it is similar to what I've come across in those package setups, I would not recommend removing the center support or cutting an opening in the end panel. They are pretty much 'engineered', and I use that term loosely, to the bare minimum to keep manufacturing and ultimately purchasing costs down.

If you decide to modify it, you might be able to if you reinforce it before you make your modifications, if that's even possible to do.

 

[Becks]

Is MDF ok for the top of the tank stand? I already have the MDF top from my previous stand so it requires no cutting or drilling.

 

[Meshmez]

Is MDF ok for the top of the tank stand? I already have the MDF top from my previous stand so it requires no cutting or drilling.

Yikes, I wouldn't get MDF anywhere near a tank.

 

[leviburns89]

Mdf if a bad idea. You may be able to get away with a product called Extira, it's pretty much waterproof mdf. But save the hassle and use greentreat

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