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Hello I am doing a stand for my 220 Marineland tank hello I am going to stand for my 220 marine land tank I was wondering do I need a piece of three quarter plywood or half inch on the top of the stand

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Hello I am doing a stand for my 220 Marineland tank hello I am going to stand for my 220 marine land tank I was wondering do I need a piece of three quarter plywood or half inch on the top of the stand

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk



You shouldn't need either. I built this stand for Marineland 220 and just set it directly on the 2x8's. Framed glass tanks only need support around the edges.
 
need measurements for

need measurements for

rocket,
can you send me the measurements to build a stand for a 84"x24"x30".
i also live in maryland, can you pm me your number? i have a few questions for you. thanks in advance.

i am new to this site and unable to send you a pm without posting 10 post.

thanks kelly
 
Meshmez, 2x6 would be fine without. 2x4 with center is doable, but definitely with a center support, and would tend to go with a 2x4 support as well. 2x2 tends to warp and distort. You can skin the support and make your doors look a little separated which is a better look anyways.
 
Does anyone know if the screw strips would get in the way of a 75g RR drain/return lines? I don't know how far in the holes are from the outside edges of the tank.

You should purchase the tank before building the stand for this exact reason. There are several different types of "reef ready" tanks with different hole locations.

Hello I am doing a stand for my 220 Marineland tank hello I am going to stand for my 220 marine land tank I was wondering do I need a piece of three quarter plywood or half inch on the top of the stand.

The plywood top isn't required but most folks include it.

rocket,
can you send me the measurements to build a stand for a 84"x24"x30".
i also live in maryland, can you pm me your number? i have a few questions for you. thanks in advance.

i am new to this site and unable to send you a pm without posting 10 post.

thanks kelly

For a 84" x 24" tank you are going to need a center brace unless you use a 2X10 which is overly large IMO. If you have further questions, post them here as this is one of the best ways to reach me. Its one way to get to that 10 posts fairly quickly.
 
Hey RocketEngineer,

Have you had a chance to look at the drawing I uploaded of the design I'm thinking? I realized the pic of it came out a bit stretched so it looks weird.

Hoping to start building this weekend if you think it will work.

Thanks for your commitment to this forum & helping others DIY!

-- Josh
 
I replaced my cracked tank and had the new one built with the weir in the corner instead of central and I did not think about the corner vertical post obstructing one of the holes. So I'm left with the dilemma of Covering the hole, or bore out part of the corner post to fit the pipe and elbow then reinforcing the stand with two more vertical posts which would be a lot simpler than building a complete new stand. Any suggestions?
 
So on a 60" x 18" stand for a 120 gallon 26" deep tank - would you put a 2 x 6 as a center brace?

If you wanted 3 doors (for looks) - but only two openings because you want larger openings - would you put the 2 x 6 center brace in the middle?
 
Hey RocketEngineer,

Have you had a chance to look at the drawing I uploaded of the design I'm thinking? I realized the pic of it came out a bit stretched so it looks weird.

Hoping to start building this weekend if you think it will work.

Thanks for your commitment to this forum & helping others DIY!

-- Josh

As long is there is something keeping the front corners from spreading apart, you should be okay. The closer the piece connecting the sides is to the front of the stand, the better it will be in terms of strength.

I replaced my cracked tank and had the new one built with the weir in the corner instead of central and I did not think about the corner vertical post obstructing one of the holes. So I'm left with the dilemma of Covering the hole, or bore out part of the corner post to fit the pipe and elbow then reinforcing the stand with two more vertical posts which would be a lot simpler than building a complete new stand. Any suggestions?

Are you talking about the green board If it is the green board, you can use a different joining method (like pocket screws) to do the same job. The greens aren't structural, they just hold the purple boards to the top and bottom frames. You don't need to add more supports if you still have at least one purple leg per corner.

So on a 60" x 18" stand for a 120 gallon 26" deep tank - would you put a 2 x 6 as a center brace?

If you wanted 3 doors (for looks) - but only two openings because you want larger openings - would you put the 2 x 6 center brace in the middle?

For a 60" 120g tank you don't need a center brace with a 2X6 top frame. With no center brace you have one big opening in the frame so the face can be any design you like.
 
I'm building a stand for a 60"x 24"x 24" rimless 150 gallon. 2x6 is fine for the top rail without center support, right? Would 2x4 be acceptable if there was a center post? and if so, would 2x2 be acceptable for center posts, pocket drilled into top and bottom frame?

I think this got hidden in the other posts. anyone have input on this?
 
Diy stand

Diy stand

i would like to build out of 2x4s'.
so i would do a total four doors-2 on left and 2 on right separated by a 2fr space for shelves, the opening for the bookshelf between the doors would have 2x4s on
either side for additional support.
 
RocketEngineer,
I am trying to design a stand for 240 gal acrylic tank, but can't find info on acceptable deflection under the tank. I remember you quoting 1/8" (I think), but not sure whether that was for acrylic, and it does not sound very conservative. Do you have any specific rules for acrylic, and are there any standards, or references where I can such info.
Thanks,
Andrey
 
I think this got hidden in the other posts. anyone have input on this?

I would never use 2X2s as they are normally very warped when I look at them. 2X4s for the uprights is better as you can typiclally find straight ones if you look hard enough. With no center brace 2X6 is fine.

i would like to build out of 2x4s'.
so i would do a total four doors-2 on left and 2 on right separated by a 2fr space for shelves, the opening for the bookshelf between the doors would have 2x4s on
either side for additional support.

Where is the sump going? What is going on the shelves? I'm just thinking how books and saltwater are not a good combination. Otherwise it sounds fairly reasonable but more details are needed to say for sure.

RocketEngineer,
I am trying to design a stand for 240 gal acrylic tank, but can't find info on acceptable deflection under the tank. I remember you quoting 1/8" (I think), but not sure whether that was for acrylic, and it does not sound very conservative. Do you have any specific rules for acrylic, and are there any standards, or references where I can such info.
Thanks,
Andrey

That 1/8" number is really for any tank, glass or acrylic. I've never found references provided by tank builders because they all want you to buy their stand instead of building your own. Depending on the geometry, the actual deflection is often much less because there are only so many size boards that I pick from. If you go one size larger than my recommendation, the deflection drops significantly. I would need dimensions on your tank to be able to give you more exact numbers.
 
Thanks. Judging by the size of this thread this number is already a common standard :)

Yeah but did it come about because of this thread (which I started) or was it from somewhere reputable? That I don't know the answer to. Just understand that it doesn't have any data to support it, only the evidence that it's worked so far.
 
I would never use 2X2s as they are normally very warped when I look at them. 2X4s for the uprights is better as you can typiclally find straight ones if you look hard enough. With no center brace 2X6 is fine.

Thanks! ill probably just go with the 2x6 then, maybe put a center brace of some sort for doors, but not structure. if i were to go with a 2x4 top with a off center 2x4 support, say with 2 feet on one side, 3 feet on the other, would that work?
im just in a weird spot with a 5' tank. I don't particularly want 2 2.5' doors, but i also want a large opening to get a sump in and out if need be. my reason for not wanting the 2x6 is internal height clearance, maybe ill just make my stand a couple inches taller...
 
Thanks! ill probably just go with the 2x6 then, maybe put a center brace of some sort for doors, but not structure. if i were to go with a 2x4 top with a off center 2x4 support, say with 2 feet on one side, 3 feet on the other, would that work?
im just in a weird spot with a 5' tank. I don't particularly want 2 2.5' doors, but i also want a large opening to get a sump in and out if need be. my reason for not wanting the 2x6 is internal height clearance, maybe ill just make my stand a couple inches taller...

One removable panel would be my choice. Much easier to work around than doors.

Going taller is also a good idea. I wish mine had been about 2" taller as that would have made getting my skimmer cup out of my sump that much easier.
 
Where is the sump going? What is going on the shelves? I'm just thinking how books and saltwater are not a good combination. Otherwise it sounds fairly reasonable but more details are needed to say for sure.


This will be for a cichlid tank, so i will be using 2 fx6 canister filters.
book shelf section would actually be for storage/pictures/whatnots
 
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