Hello I am doing a stand for my 220 Marineland tank hello I am going to stand for my 220 marine land tank I was wondering do I need a piece of three quarter plywood or half inch on the top of the stand
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Does anyone know if the screw strips would get in the way of a 75g RR drain/return lines? I don't know how far in the holes are from the outside edges of the tank.
Hello I am doing a stand for my 220 Marineland tank hello I am going to stand for my 220 marine land tank I was wondering do I need a piece of three quarter plywood or half inch on the top of the stand.
rocket,
can you send me the measurements to build a stand for a 84"x24"x30".
i also live in maryland, can you pm me your number? i have a few questions for you. thanks in advance.
i am new to this site and unable to send you a pm without posting 10 post.
thanks kelly
Hey RocketEngineer,
Have you had a chance to look at the drawing I uploaded of the design I'm thinking? I realized the pic of it came out a bit stretched so it looks weird.
Hoping to start building this weekend if you think it will work.
Thanks for your commitment to this forum & helping others DIY!
-- Josh
I replaced my cracked tank and had the new one built with the weir in the corner instead of central and I did not think about the corner vertical post obstructing one of the holes. So I'm left with the dilemma of Covering the hole, or bore out part of the corner post to fit the pipe and elbow then reinforcing the stand with two more vertical posts which would be a lot simpler than building a complete new stand. Any suggestions?
So on a 60" x 18" stand for a 120 gallon 26" deep tank - would you put a 2 x 6 as a center brace?
If you wanted 3 doors (for looks) - but only two openings because you want larger openings - would you put the 2 x 6 center brace in the middle?
I'm building a stand for a 60"x 24"x 24" rimless 150 gallon. 2x6 is fine for the top rail without center support, right? Would 2x4 be acceptable if there was a center post? and if so, would 2x2 be acceptable for center posts, pocket drilled into top and bottom frame?
I think this got hidden in the other posts. anyone have input on this?
i would like to build out of 2x4s'.
so i would do a total four doors-2 on left and 2 on right separated by a 2fr space for shelves, the opening for the bookshelf between the doors would have 2x4s on
either side for additional support.
RocketEngineer,
I am trying to design a stand for 240 gal acrylic tank, but can't find info on acceptable deflection under the tank. I remember you quoting 1/8" (I think), but not sure whether that was for acrylic, and it does not sound very conservative. Do you have any specific rules for acrylic, and are there any standards, or references where I can such info.
Thanks,
Andrey
That 1/8" number is really for any tank, glass or acrylic.
Thanks. Judging by the size of this thread this number is already a common standard
I would never use 2X2s as they are normally very warped when I look at them. 2X4s for the uprights is better as you can typiclally find straight ones if you look hard enough. With no center brace 2X6 is fine.
Thanks! ill probably just go with the 2x6 then, maybe put a center brace of some sort for doors, but not structure. if i were to go with a 2x4 top with a off center 2x4 support, say with 2 feet on one side, 3 feet on the other, would that work?
im just in a weird spot with a 5' tank. I don't particularly want 2 2.5' doors, but i also want a large opening to get a sump in and out if need be. my reason for not wanting the 2x6 is internal height clearance, maybe ill just make my stand a couple inches taller...
Going taller is also a good idea. I wish mine had been about 2" taller as that would have made getting my skimmer cup out of my sump that much easier.