Doni Marie clown's

That's the beauty of Doni's system. You can see a 10 sec movie of the fish you are going to buy. So be patient. If you don't see what you want today there is always tomorrow. I waited about 6 weeks until I saw what I wanted and then purchase right away. It was well worth the wait.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15196772#post15196772 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 1geo
No, these are Grade B set 4. I can imagine what Grade As look like.
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They sure are purrrrty. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15196792#post15196792 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by myreefcentral
some grade B i think have better patterns than some grade A...
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I can attest to that. I also agree.
 
I just got these guys last week. They are only 3/4 of an inch. As for age, I would think 3 to 4 months.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15196668#post15196668 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 1geo
jds_nano stated in the above post, "Her fish are really no smaller then some of the true percs I have seen in stores. Also, even if they aren't small, no fish should be left to fend with major flow or fighting for food."
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Many of the small clowns you see at your local LFS are wild stock. Their size is NOT indicative of their age. You could see a 1 inch clown that is the same age as her 1.5 inch aquarium cousin. Its the aquarium raised clowns where you can predict their final size. As for major flow and fighting for food, I'm not sure where that came from. My clowns from Doni have no major flows and there is no fighting for food. The problem I have is the juvenile cannot swim that well and in a 20 gal tank has difficulty catching up with the food. I purchased Doni's Picasso's because 1. they are unique and to me well worth the effort and the risk to raise them to adulthood. and 2 (which is equally important to me) I have confidence that Doni's clowns are disease and parasite free. I still put them in QT but they are as healthy as they can be. I know of no other clown vendor that I can make that statement. Normally I would not buy a clown that is under 1.5 inches and then only aquarium raised clowns; clearly Doni's are the exception to size.
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I was more implying that leaving a juv fish to fight in a high flow tank with other fish or not is a bad idea. I kept mine netted for about 2-3 weeks and they were the first fish in the tank. I needed to make sure they could find the food, learn the process of where and when, and then get used to some of the flow patterns. I actually redirected the flow differently every few days to have them get used to different types of currents, etc as they were smallish. But in the end these fish are hearty and doing quite well in tank. Btw the black started to come in when I started feeding more protein foods. I use ORA gold and mysis/brine shrimp.

more pics

M-IMG_3077.JPG


M-IMG_3113.JPG


M-IMG_3012.JPG


younger shot: 4/6/2009

M-IMG_2852.JPG
 
Changing the current every couple of days is a good idea. My problem is I have them in a 20 gal tank by themselves. What I need is a screen or seperator to reduce their swimming area when I feed them. Then slowly increase the area. The way my live rock is in the tank will make this difficult. What I am going to do is make a corner out of plexiglass and capture them in the corner say 6 X 6 inches and then feed them. It will take a month before they can swim well enough to chase down the food in the 20 gal tank.
 
Quick question about flow.

I have a MJ900 (230gph) as my return pump and a Koralia Nano (240gph) in my tank. However the Koralia definitely does NOT pump out the rated GPH. It is about 125-150gph, because the MJ900 is about 2-2.5x harder/more powerful than the Koralia.

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...dor=Hydor&idProduct=HD19101&idCategory=FIPHFF

Now people say to cover powerheads with foam, but on the Nano, there is NO way a 1"+ fish is going to fit through the slits. They're tiny. However, what type of "foam" does one use to cover the powerhead?


The return nozzle is pointing to the right and all the way up, for superb current at the top of the water (gas exchanges etc.) And the Koralia is 3.5" down and pointed straight, for a little current right below the surface current.


At the bottom there is little flow for zoa's, Ric's, frogspawn, etc. I did this intentionally since my zoa's and frogspawn never fully opened due to "high" current.




Has anyone owned a Koralia Nano AND had these fish at the same time? I am afraid if I cover the powerhead with foam, it will restrict the flow further, and then I will only have the surface current from the return nozzle. Good idea? Bad idea?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15199059#post15199059 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 1geo
Changing the current every couple of days is a good idea. My problem is I have them in a 20 gal tank by themselves. What I need is a screen or seperator to reduce their swimming area when I feed them. Then slowly increase the area. The way my live rock is in the tank will make this difficult. What I am going to do is make a corner out of plexiglass and capture them in the corner say 6 X 6 inches and then feed them. It will take a month before they can swim well enough to chase down the food in the 20 gal tank.
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Well I always turn the pumps off to feed the fish/anemones for at least 10mins. Then I turn it on to "feed" the tank with cyclopeeze, etc.

I would greatly suggest that instead of trying to mess around with segmenting your tank.

-jds
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15199164#post15199164 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by iFisch
Quick question about flow.

I have a MJ900 (230gph) as my return pump and a Koralia Nano (240gph) in my tank. However the Koralia definitely does NOT pump out the rated GPH. It is about 125-150gph, because the MJ900 is about 2-2.5x harder/more powerful than the Koralia.

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...dor=Hydor&idProduct=HD19101&idCategory=FIPHFF

Now people say to cover powerheads with foam, but on the Nano, there is NO way a 1"+ fish is going to fit through the slits. They're tiny. However, what type of "foam" does one use to cover the powerhead?


The return nozzle is pointing to the right and all the way up, for superb current at the top of the water (gas exchanges etc.) And the Koralia is 3.5" down and pointed straight, for a little current right below the surface current.


At the bottom there is little flow for zoa's, Ric's, frogspawn, etc. I did this intentionally since my zoa's and frogspawn never fully opened due to "high" current.




Has anyone owned a Koralia Nano AND had these fish at the same time? I am afraid if I cover the powerhead with foam, it will restrict the flow further, and then I will only have the surface current from the return nozzle. Good idea? Bad idea?
Click to expand...

Well its an intersting thing. I have my stock return pump for my BC29 and 1 K1. I had 2 but then I wanted to have a less flow area so I removed the 2nd K1. The funny thing is that the fish tend to swim around the flow area from the K1 and the return. I think you will be fine, they probably wont be sucked in to the nano's sides, but if you are worried try any thin foam and some rubberbands. I cant find the link to where I have seen some.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15199525#post15199525 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jds_nano
Well its an intersting thing. I have my stock return pump for my BC29 and 1 K1. I had 2 but then I wanted to have a less flow area so I removed the 2nd K1. The funny thing is that the fish tend to swim around the flow area from the K1 and the return. I think you will be fine, they probably wont be sucked in to the nano's sides, but if you are worried try any thin foam and some rubberbands. I cant find the link to where I have seen some.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I THINK the slits on the Nano are 1/4" thick/wide whatever.

When people "loose" a clown to the powerhead, is it because they get sucked through, or the suction drawn from the powerhead (intake) get's the clown stuck against the powerhead, and dies?


This answer ^ will dictate how I go about planning it's arrival.
 
Are those A's or B's? After seeing all these photos, it seems like her "B's" aren't very far off from the A's.

Beautiful fish btw.
 
From the looks of those pics...I'm guessing Doni sold them as A's...by her classification - A's have two stripes connect on both sides - B's have two stripes connect on just 1 side - C's have no stripes connecting at all...someone correct me if I'm wrong...we're not talking about ORA here...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15210387#post15210387 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by myreefcentral
From the looks of those pics...I'm guessing Doni sold them as A's...by her classification - A's have two stripes connect on both sides - B's have two stripes connect on just 1 side - C's have no stripes connecting at all...someone correct me if I'm wrong...we're not talking about ORA here...
Click to expand...

That's what I'm thinking.. but I may be wrong too..
 
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