grissโ€™ Battle with Cyano - all the Things Iโ€™ve Tried

Okay, weird readings. Granted, my Red Sea kit is about 2 years expired, so Ca, kH and Mg may be off. Nitrate and PO4 are new kits..Salifert and Hanna meter respectively.

Ca 650 ppm
kH 5.3 dKH
Mg 1,100 ppm
Nitrate TOTAL ZERO
PO4 0.08
That should have read 2 months expired, NOT 2 years.
 
That should have read 2 months expired, NOT 2 years.
Alk/Calcium have a seesaw relationship (one goes down the other goes up, Anthony Calfo explained it somewhere really well) but the calcium seems kinda too high where you'd expect it to precipitate out (unless your PH is rediculously low too). What salt do you use and at what S.G.?

Anyway those number are whack. If they were real, first job would be to correct the Magnesium up over 1300 and then start bringing the alkalinity up to 8-9 over a few days but I wouldn't do anything without confirmed results.

If RHF still hung out here I guarantee he'd say testing error,
 
I use Coralife salt and have used that since it hit the market way back when. I keep my SG at 1.025.
 
I use Coralife salt and have used that since it hit the market way back when. I keep my SG at 1.025.
Looks like it is high in calcium but not crazy.

salts.png
 
For fun, I tested the tank water again. Hereโ€™s the results today.

2 month expired Red Sea tests
Ca - 800 ppm???
7.0 dKH
1,230 Mg - I added some BRS Mg booster yesterday

Unexpired tests Hanna / Salifert respectively
0.12 PO4
ZERO NO3
 
For fun, I tested the tank water again. Hereโ€™s the results today.

2 month expired Red Sea tests
Ca - 800 ppm???
7.0 dKH
1,230 Mg - I added some BRS Mg booster yesterday

Unexpired tests Hanna / Salifert respectively
0.12 PO4
ZERO NO3
PO4 on the rise due to cyano die off I imagine.
 
Chemiclean in the system almost 48 hours now. Water change and change out carbon and GFO??? And bring skimmer back online.
If you want to manage the PO4 you could but you definitely don't want to zero it or you'll be in bigger trouble. If you can get your nitrates up, you'll see the phosphates drop naturally and since you want healthy competitors to replace the cyano void, that's what I would do. This is the slower but better course IMO. Of course take Canadian advice with a grain of salt. :eek:
 
If you want to manage the PO4 you could but you definitely don't want to zero it or you'll be in bigger trouble. If you can get your nitrates up, you'll see the phosphates drop naturally and since you want healthy competitors to replace the cyano void, that's what I would do. This is the slower but better course IMO. Of course take Canadian advice with a grain of salt. :eek:
๐Ÿ˜‚ You crack me up brother and I love your advice. So, add the ESV nitrates and some of the Brightwell Microbacter?
 
๐Ÿ˜‚ You crack me up brother and I love your advice. So, add the ESV nitrates and some of the Brightwell Microbacter?
Sure, do their one drop per gallon (total system volume) starting dose for the ESV. That's supposed to give you 1ppm nitrate. Don't add the microbacter so we can see what effect the nitrate has. I bet tomorrow you have zero nitrate again and a drop in phosphate.
 
Sure, do their one drop per gallon (total system volume) starting dose for the ESV. That's supposed to give you 1ppm nitrate. Don't add the microbacter so we can see what effect the nitrate has. I bet tomorrow you have zero nitrate again and a drop in phosphate.
Gotcha, letโ€™s experiment๐Ÿ˜€
 
Back
Top