griss' Tank Upgrade Thread

[griss]

So, an interesting thing about these Pro-Clear Pro Star tanks. The sump is actually attached to the stand via brackets. I'm not sure I want to use this sump for a couple reasons. 1. I really wanted to have my sump in the fish room (run the plumbing through the wall) so I have easier access to it and I also wanted to plumb a fuge and frag tank to the system. 2. It seems a bit of an oddly designed sump. So, I might be removing it once the basement is finished and I can move the tank into its final location.

In researching, I've learned that Pro-Clear uses metric PVC for the plumbing. Since they're based in Florida, I thought this was a bit odd. I believe these systems come with pre-built plumbing or at least that's how it looks based on the used system I bought. So, if I decide to do the remote sump, I'll have to completely re-plumb it. Fortunately, I found I can get metric to standard PVC fittings from various vendors.

 

[griss]

New info I just discovered about that plumbing used by Pro-Clear. It appears that there are two metric standards for plumbing a European ("DIN") standard and a Japanese ("JIS") standard. From what I'm reading, the PVC fittings Pro-Clear uses are JIS so, the adapters I found at BRS (which are DIN) will not work. I found threads on other boards with the proper part numbers for the correct fittings from FlexPVC.com Hopefully, these will work if I decide to swap out the sump/plumbing. But, man, those fittings (unions) are pricy.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Might be better off starting from scratch with regular pvc.

 

[griss]

Might be better off starting from scratch with regular pvc.

Some of the threads I've read state that this is a very difficult solution as replacing the bulkheads in the overflow is very difficult. This is due to limited space in the overflow, the bulkheads being sealed with copious amounts of silicone (difficult to clean the holes up) and the fast that standard bulkheads may not fit the manufacturer's holes in the glass.

 

[wvned]

I would glue 5 inches of metric pipe into the bulkhead and then use an adapter right there glued in. If you need to redo it you cut it off. You have 3-4 redos possible before you have to replace the bulkhead.

To deal with the pipe being so low you can come up next to the sump with a standpipe that has a tee in it so the water comes out the side into the sump. The standpipe rises to the same height as the tank level on the other side of the wall. My system runs with about 20 inches of head from the top of the water level in the DTs to where the tee is on the standpipe.

Any part of the sump I wanted higher than the floor was placed on stacked concrete blocks from Home Depot.

 

[OrionN]

It has been a while since you started this build. Many lifetimes ago (maybe wrasse lifetime). Hurry up and finish or you are not going to be able to take care of it.

 

[kharmaguru]

Anything that requires expensive adapters just switch to hose and call it a day. A heat gun or even just hot water plus a hose clamp is your friend.

 

[griss]

It has been a while since you started this build. Many lifetimes ago (maybe wrasse lifetime). Hurry up and finish or you are not going to be able to take care of it.

Too funny Minh, and you’re right. Our son said he’ll help finish the framing this weekend (not holding my breath).

Once the framing is done, I can run the electric myself.

Drywall, I’ll probably get a bid or two. I can do drywall but I hate doing it. I’ll do the painting and baseboards.

Then, flooring. We decided to do vinyl plank around the tank and Mrs griss want carpet in the rest of the finished basement area.

 

[griss]

Anything that requires expensive adapters just switch to hose and call it a day. A heat gun or even just hot water plus a hose clamp is your friend.

True Sean. I’ll have to see if that will work.

 

[ultrabann]

Outstanding!

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

If there is no room to work then I agree with kharmaguru.