griss' Tank Upgrade Thread

I would build the wall and leave the space open for ceiling grid maybe.
If not attach 2x4 down supports to the jousts to support false ceiling framing that ends flush with the duct work (between the beam and the duct.
Set you wall the the left of the vent pipe as usual and attach a 2x4 runner (parallel with the pipe/duct) to screw the ceiling sheets of drywall into. You can use construction adhesive to attached the drywall to the duct if you feel that the span is too far without support. So in essence pic two with a lowered ceiling frame between the duct and beam (hung from joists) and your wall to the left with a nailer attached to accept the ceiling drywall.
 
The fish room will be to the left of the ducts in the picture. A family room will be on the other side of the wall.
wvned said:
I do not understand enough to say anything. I understand you want to move the wall. What will be on each side of the wall in reference to the picture. I agree a drop ceiling would be the easiest way to cover the pipes. Sticking stuff to ducting can be tricky if you use air conditioning in that duct. It may sweat.
The ducting blocks part of the window. That would be a problem.

Can I have the cat tree. Louie would love it.
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The fish room will be to the left of the ducts in the picture. A family room will be on the other side of the wall and that will be where the tank is. Yes, I'm aware the window will be partially blocked due to the duct, but it already is. Cannot fully open that window (1 of 4) with the duct.

Demi said Louie cannot have her cat tree. :ROFLMAO:
 
wvned said:
He said "Please. The floor has gone to the dogs."
View attachment 32385894
Do you need the vents in the duct for ventilation in the fish room? You could add some. Framing is framing.
I would make a header below the mechanical stuff tied into the roof rafters above. Frame to the floor. Below the stuff in the family room cover the ceiling below the pipe with drop ceiling or acoustic tile. Then frame up to the ceiling there and drywall it.View attachment 32385895
Wow that's bad. New to Macs. grabbed a drawing app.
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Loving the artistic licence ! !
 
griss said:
Six years in a trash can cooking. Decided to bring it out to bleach in the summer sun.
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One of the reasons I took the tank this rock was in down was a horrible outbreak of HA and Bryopsis. I’m wondering now if I should use it again? It’s been in a 40 gallon Brute, in the dark in saltwater, with heater and circulation pump since 2017. For the last two months I’ve also run gfo in the Brute.

Should I do and acid/vinegar bath followed by a bleach bath and then soak in FW?
 
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griss said:
One of the reasons I took the tank this rock was in down was a horrible outbreak of HA and Bryopsis. I’m wondering now if I should use it again? It’s been in a 40 gallon Brute, not the dark in saltwater, with heater and circulation pump since 2017. For the last two months I’ve also run gfo in the Brute.

Should I do and acid/vinegar bath followed by a bleach bath and then soak in FW?
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IMO bryopsis has gone from the worst to eradicate to the easiest with fluconazole, and many herbivores eat hair algae so I wouldn't let those reasons stop me.
 
kharmaguru said:
IMO bryopsis has gone from the worst to eradicate to the easiest with fluconazole, and many herbivores eat hair algae so I wouldn't let those reasons stop me.
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I corrected a typo above, it was in the brute in the dark. Would you acid or bleach bathe it or just use as is?
 
kharmaguru said:
IMO bryopsis has gone from the worst to eradicate to the easiest with fluconazole, and many herbivores eat hair algae so I wouldn't let those reasons stop me.
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and I would eventually add a Lettuce nudi/slug. I added one to my 120 and I now have issues with no food for my 3/4" lettuce.....it ate all my algae...all sorts....all gone!
 
griss said:
I corrected a typo above, it was in the brute in the dark. Would you acid or bleach bathe it or just use as is?
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I think if you just want to kill potential algae spores then 10:1 RODI:bleach will take care of that. You thinking acid bath to leach out more phosphates? I've honestly never done either thing.
 
kharmaguru said:
I think if you just want to kill potential algae spores then 10:1 RODI:bleach will take care of that. You thinking acid bath to leach out more phosphates? I've honestly never done either thing.
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Yep, was thinking about the acid bath to leach out phosphate. I do have some muriatic acid I bought a long time ago thinking about doing the acid bath. But, the more I'm reading on it I'm not sure I want to risk it so I was considering going with a less caustic method of vinegar. I suppose I could go the bleach route first and then put the rock in RODI water and test for phosphates.
 
Thanks @wvned and @JohnL The more I'm thinking about it, I really don't know if there's PO4 bound in the rocks. They've been in a Brute, in the dark, in saltwater with heater and circulation since sometime in 2017. I've occasionally done water changes on the Brute over the years. For the last several months, I've been doing regular water changes and also have been running a high amount of Pura PhosLock. So, phosphate might not be an issue. I think I might do the bleach treatment first, then put them in fresh RODI and test for phosphates. If they're leaching, I'll look into an acid batch.

Reality is, I won't be using most of these rocks anyway as they came from my old 92 corner bowfront and are too large for the 75. To be honest, I'm not sure why I've hung onto those larger rocks. Probably because I'm a bit of a reef hoarder and one never knows when they will set up a larger tank :ROFLMAO:
 
Okay, the 75 has been discontinued.

Over the weekend, I bought a used compete 120 system for an incredible price.

The good news:
I got a ton of equipment with this tank. Some I’m keeping and some I’m selling as it’s redundant to equipment I already have. General overview of what I got:
120 gallon reef ready Oceanic
Stand
(2) Radion XR15 gen 3 Pros
eShopps sump
Jebao DCT 8000 pump
(2) skimmers
Complete 75 gpd RODI water mixing station
And a bunch of other small items.

The bad news:
When I looked at the tank on Saturday, the seller had it stored in their basement under the steps with no light. I could tell there were some scratches but in place it didn’t look bad so I agreed to buy and paid. I took the sump and all accessories Saturday, going back Sunday with manpower to get the tank and stand.

On Sunday, our son and his buddy went with us to carry the tank out. The boys grabbed the tank and loaded into the car before I could get a closer look. Once in my basement, I got a good look and the scratches were worse than I originally thought…no wonder I got such a good price.

Anyway, after making some calls, I found a local glass company willing to buff the scratches out. There in only one small scratch I can catch my fingernail on and the glass guy feels he can get the rest out for around $100. The catch is, I have to bring it to his shop (45 minutes away) and they’re only there M-F 7:30 to 4:30. So, I need to find time to take off work to take it down there.

Also, being Oceanic, this stand is really old and will need some reinforcing to be structurally sound. That shouldn’t be an issue since I did this with the 75 gallon stand I got from my Mom as noted upthread.

Finally, Mrs griss put her foot down. I cannot take the tank to the glass guy until the wall is moved so the tank/stand can be put into place and not moved again. Guess I better get my butt in gear and move that wall🤣
 
Sounds like some work but doable none the less. Got any unknown work holidays coming up?
 
griss said:
Yesterday was a work holiday🤣.

Might pick up some 2x4’s this weekend and get my butt in gear.
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I’ve got plenty of projects in the list at my house if you’re looking for something to do 😎.

I should have everything I need to build my new lights this weekend…can’t wait
 
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