How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

LQT said:
See my build above? The 1/8” male NPT threaded end of your metering valve would be a straight fit into the female NPT end of the 1/8” street elbow. As far as the 1/8” tube end, you have the wrong connector. Give me a few moments to find the right tube adapter fitting.
Click to expand...

Yep, that end is fine, I’m trying to deal with the tube end. I believe the SS-400-R-2 you recommended earlier is the right way to go; I had ordered this when i was still considering the in-line bubble counter (which still makes this the wrong part, that would’ve been an SS-2-TA-1-4).
 
No, put the ferrule (cone shaped thing with the small ring) over the tube adapter portion (stem) then cinch it down with the nut on the metering valve side. One and one quarter turn will compress the ferrule around the tube for a secure leak free attachment. See this video for reference.

 
The order is actually ss-400-r-2 (the tube end), the nut (with threads facing the metering valve), ferrule (ring part, then cone with skinny side toward the metering valve), then the metering valve. Cinch it down 1-1/4 turn and you're good to go.
 
Really quickly, I just realized something. Because your fitting is 1/8”, the tube and metering valve, I believe you only need 3/4” of a turn. My fittings are 1/4”, that’s why I was going with the 1-1/4 turn... Sorry.
 
LQT said:
Really quickly, I just realized something. Because your fitting is 1/8", the tube and metering valve, I believe you only need 3/4" of a turn. My fittings are 1/4", that's why I was going with the 1-1/4 turn... Sorry.
Click to expand...

Hey, no need to apologize. I would've gotten this completely wrong without your help. Thank you!
 
LQT said:
The order is actually ss-400-r-2 (the tube end), the nut (with threads facing the metering valve), ferrule (ring part, then cone with skinny side toward the metering valve), then the metering valve. Cinch it down 1-1/4 turn and you're good to go.
Click to expand...

Ah ha! Like this!

 
I finally have all of the regulator parts, although, I’m going to need to find a longer CGA-320 nipple/nut at some point.

I’m sure its someplace in this thread, but what type of tubing are most of you using between the tank, regulator, and reactor? There seem to be opinions all over the place from standard airline tubing, to RO line, to silicone, coupled with reasons not to use each.

I’m leaning towards some stuff that claims to be CO2 safe, but its silicone which some say leaks worse than most alternatives.
 
I'm using the standard cheap-*** airline tubing that I found in a bucket that I probably bought a decade ago and haven't used more than once or twice. Probably TOM brand or something like that.

I was just pleasantly surprised that it fit the Swagelok fittings and whatnot. this was definitely a learning experience in both planning and in transition of air-line. I've never seen the Swagelok type of tube connector before where you just insert the tubing into the receptacle and tighten the receptacle and it holds it down in place and doesn't leak.
 
solitude127 said:
great work [MENTION=73045]GraviT[/MENTION]. I never get sick of seeing the custom regs
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Next question, I’m using a Swagelok SS-SM2-S2-A metering valve and seem to be unable to completely close it. Even when finger tight, I’m getting multiple BPS. The outlet pressure from the regulator is currently at 20 (I dropped from 30 hoping it would help).

For the record, I’m not terribly interested in closing it but am unable to get anywhere near 1 BPS much less below it.

Bad valve?
 
After you close it finger tight, does it still give you the slow stream of bubbles even after a several minutes?
 
LQT said:
After you close it finger tight, does it still give you the slow stream of bubbles even after a several minutes?
Click to expand...
Ahh...I don't know about after several minutes, but thanks for the physics reminder! It does take time for pressure to dissipate from a closed system with semi-flexible tubing, doesn't it?

Apex is controlling pH, so I only get a few seconds at a time to adjust. I'll close it, be patient, and try again!
 
I shut off the tank and regulator, and the needle valve drained 20 lbs of pressure when closed finger tight. That said, I dropped the regulator output to 10 and the valve seems to be working much better and actually allows for meaningful adjustment.

I’m a bit suspicious of the valve at this point. I haven’t found the right specs yet, but surely its designed for >10 psi.
 
You may have a damaged needle valve, I dunno. That said, running your output pressure between 20-30 psi seems extremely high. 5 -10 psi should be the sweet spot.
 
LQT said:
You may have a damaged needle valve, I dunno. That said, running your output pressure between 20-30 psi seems extremely high. 5 -10 psi should be the sweet spot.
Click to expand...

I'm happy to drop to 5; I had a difficult time trying to find what pressure I should be running!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Raptor72
Another RO/DI setup question(s)
Replies
19
Views
417
griss
griss
griss
Old School CO2 Regulator
2
Replies
25
Views
2K
reign
R
T
120 Gallon Mixed Reef Tank for Sale
Replies
6
Views
606
vanbro1
vanbro1
T
RO drain won't stop after filter change
Replies
1
Views
639
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
MrineLfRlz
Ok to run a calcium reactor and dose kalk. for ph control?
Replies
4
Views
435
griss
griss
Back
Top