How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

So I ended up buying a Veriflo unit off ebay. I have a few questions I wondered if somone could help me with.

Here are the pics of the unit, it looks to be in very good shape.

Photo%20Jan%2022,%209%2026%2050%20PM.jpg



There are a few open connectors on the front and back I am not sure what to do with. Are they open, or do I need to plug them?

The back of the unit
Photo%20Jan%2022,%209%2027%2022%20PM.jpg


Front
Photo%20Jan%2022,%209%2027%2005%20PM.jpg


Also the bottom has three other opening that are already plugged, I assume I do not have to do anything to them.

Photo%20Jan%2022,%209%2027%2054%20PM.jpg


I have had CO2 regulators for well over ten years. But this will be the first that I have put together myself.
 
Those tubes in the front and back are just there in case the diaphragm fails and it has to vent the air. In some setups you want to vent that to a specific place, but for our purpose just leave the holes be.
 
I used what fittings I could find locally off of craigslist and from home depot to finish mine. I have a veriflo 6000 stainless regulator, but the rest of it is all brass.



Full res pictures here: http://1drv.ms/1HlnCaD





In terms of the power supply, each solenoid will have different power requirements. Some are 120v AC and just spliced in to a power cord, but mine was 12v. I got a IP67 constant current LED power supply and used waterproof wire caps to attach the solenoid power cables to the power supply.







Did the test as Alan prescribed, no problems and nothing bubbles when doing the soap test.


Thats a sweet regulator! Adding a 1/8 male x 1/8 female between the solenoid and the needle valve will save you some spaces. The needle valve will be pointing toward the user thus more convenience to do the adjustment.

As for the solenoid power supply, some Burkert solenoids are 120v, 12vdc and 24vdc. The model I mentioned is a 24vdc. It does not require a ground wire. All you need is a 24vdc 500mA power adapter. It's available on eBay.
 
So I ended up buying a Veriflo unit off ebay. I have a few questions I wondered if somone could help me with.



Here are the pics of the unit, it looks to be in very good shape.



Photo%20Jan%2022,%209%2026%2050%20PM.jpg






There are a few open connectors on the front and back I am not sure what to do with. Are they open, or do I need to plug them?



The back of the unit

Photo%20Jan%2022,%209%2027%2022%20PM.jpg




Front

Photo%20Jan%2022,%209%2027%2005%20PM.jpg




Also the bottom has three other opening that are already plugged, I assume I do not have to do anything to them.



Photo%20Jan%2022,%209%2027%2054%20PM.jpg




I have had CO2 regulators for well over ten years. But this will be the first that I have put together myself.


This is a nice ss Parker Veriflo. As Dnh828 mentioned, you do not need to do anything to the back and front ports. Just remove the high pressure inlet fitting and attach the CGA320 nipple and nut then remove the stop valve on the low pressure outlet and attach the post body from there. Let me know if you need solenoid, and needle valve. I have a few left and can spare you a set.
 
I had a few free hours today and managed to put together these Airgas systems. They are identical. The solenoid is a stainless steel Burkert 6011. Needle valve is a Hoke 1300 series. I added a bubble counter with built in check valve right on top of the needle valve to make it like an all in one system. Let me know if you guys need any help in building a system like this. I can help.

What size is the bottom of the Bubble Counter? 1/4 NPT?
 
Have the part number for the 1/8 tubing adapter to 1/8 npt for the Hoke metering valve to the bubble counter? Or can you go direct from the metering valve to the bubble counter?
 
How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

Have the part number for the 1/8 tubing adapter to 1/8 npt for the Hoke metering valve to the bubble counter? Or can you go direct from the metering valve to the bubble counter?


The Hoke needle valve uses 1/8 OD tubing so if your tubing is the same size, you can install it directly to the needle valve without an adapter. Most of us use 1/4 OD so an adapter is required. The part number is listed in the main post.
 
The part # listed is for the fitting from 1/8 to 1/4 tubing. Do you happen to know the part # from 1/8 tubing to 1/8" NPT? No worries if not, I can figure something out.
 
How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

My lfs is also selling reef stuff. I usually go there to buy plants. This is a display tank they just setup. I'll need help from you guys in the future to setup something like this :). Beside building co2 for the calcium reactor i know very little about reef keeping. I guess i'll need to start somewhere but first need to save up the $$$$$ :)
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Do you have a local swagelok distributor?

I'm sure there is one in Sf or someone that carries it if i really dig/call around( I live on the Peninsula about 10 mins South of SF) , when I look on the Swagelok site it's lists Fremont ( probably 1.5 hrs round trip) so I guess if that's what it takes I'll need to do it.. This Reducer from a few online retailers with shipping ends up north of $25 and that's just crazy for what it is physically.
 
My lfs is also selling reef stuff. I usually go there to buy plants. This is a display tank they just setup. I'll need help from you guys in the future to setup something like this :). Beside building co2 for the calcium reactor i know very little about reef keeping. I guess i'll need to start somewhere but first need to save up the $$$$$ :)

Setting up a tank like that is easier than most think. The key is getting the tank set up and cycled first and foremost. They likely used fully cured rock from an established system. If you don't have that available, you'll want to take a while longer before adding coral. Feel free to PM me, as you've been quite helpful to me designing my regulator.
 
I'm sure there is one in Sf or someone that carries it if i really dig/call around( I live on the Peninsula about 10 mins South of SF) , when I look on the Swagelok site it's lists Fremont ( probably 1.5 hrs round trip) so I guess if that's what it takes I'll need to do it.. This Reducer from a few online retailers with shipping ends up north of $25 and that's just crazy for what it is physically.

It's the shipping or order minimums that kill you from most online vendors. As alanle stated, you're most likely best off going through Swagelock directly. That's the course I ended up taking, though that opinion may change in the next few months. ;)
 
Setting up a tank like that is easier than most think. The key is getting the tank set up and cycled first and foremost. They likely used fully cured rock from an established system. If you don't have that available, you'll want to take a while longer before adding coral. Feel free to PM me, as you've been quite helpful to me designing my regulator.


Thanks! I'll pm you when i have all the equipment. It will take me a few months to get all of it.
 
Big thanks to alanle for all the personal assistance and extras.

Ended up getting two of these Harris models that were still in original box for free from work. Both of them passed leak down test with flying colors with oxygen tank at work so I don't suppose c02 will be any different. They do require a different thread than the standard cga 320 nipple so that's on its way.

I wanted it to be compact since the reg is pretty large and with Alan's help I got what I wanted.. Waiting on the nipple to do a fitting leak test and get this thing on the tank, hoping on achieving that Monday.

 
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