How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

Another needle valve that we can use for our purpose is the Ideal 54-1-11. The is a low flow and precise valve. Brass unit costs around $80 and stainless steel is $130. You have an option to have it chrome plated as well. This valve rarely shows up on surplus sites because the company is family owned and they don't make a lot. Remember the 54-1-XX model will work. Other models such as 54-2-xx, 54-3-xx are medium to high flow and they will be hard to control.

http://www.idealvalve.com/54-series-forged-stainless-needle-valves.html
 
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Alan,

2 questions.

Most of my parts are in.

Is it common for the 1/8" threads to be really really tight on the 1/8" NPT Burkert 6011 solenoid?

I have the Hoke 1300 valve. The bubble counter I purchased has a different thread than the Output thread of the Hoke 1300. The thread on the Hoke output seems non standard, its a different pitch than all the other fittings I've got.

I cant visualize how the 3 parts go together(or if they even go together) in the Swagelok part you itemized in the first post. Are the three parts, one part number?

I'm going to be using the 1/4 tubing from my reactor to connect. Its just 1/4 water filter tubing, that fit MurLok or John Guest fittings.

TIA
 
How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

Alan,



2 questions.



Most of my parts are in.



Is it common for the 1/8" threads to be really really tight on the 1/8" NPT Burkert 6011 solenoid?



I have the Hoke 1300 valve. The bubble counter I purchased has a different thread than the Output thread of the Hoke 1300. The thread on the Hoke output seems non standard, its a different pitch than all the other fittings I've got.



I cant visualize how the 3 parts go together(or if they even go together) in the Swagelok part you itemized in the first post. Are the three parts, one part number?



I'm going to be using the 1/4 tubing from my reactor to connect. Its just 1/4 water filter tubing, that fit MurLok or John Guest fittings.



TIA


When you are putting together the system make sure you wrap some teflon tapes around the threads. You don't need to really tighten the joints. I usually do another 2 to 3 full turns after I feel the 2 ends resist. The swagelok is a single part. It comes with the 1/8 tube and 1/4 nut and ferrules. I'll post up some pictures on how to assemble this part. As for co2 tubing, you can go to your local hardware store and pick up a roll of 4ft for $5. They normally rated more than 55psi, so we are good. Just make sure it's 1/4 OD.
 
How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

I found a picture that someone on the planted tank forum posted. He got curious at what is inside the carbon doser "mystery" box so he opened it. This is what it looks like.
cde25688e57c669313662f7d6ce30801.jpg
 
The valve in the"mystery" box is just an electronic gas valve from Clippard "mouse series". I think the EC seires, pick the model that you wish for your setup, voltage, fittings, Just make sure it's NC
www.clippard.com

Keep meaning to pick one up and experiment. They are using some type of timer to control the valve. A simple 555 timer could do the same
 
I have some questions on powering my becket valve. So I picked up a used one on ebay for $8 (woohoo!), the brass model, and it is apparently 12 vdc. I have a constant current LED water proof driver I was going to use with it. Any reason why that wouldn't work? And is connecting the ground important for these solenoids?
 
The valve in the"mystery" box is just an electronic gas valve from Clippard "mouse series". I think the EC seires, pick the model that you wish for your setup, voltage, fittings, Just make sure it's NC
www.clippard.com

Keep meaning to pick one up and experiment. They are using some type of timer to control the valve. A simple 555 timer could do the same

I wouldnt want a timer to control the pH.

I want a pH probe and controller controlling pH.

Your experiment seems like reinventing a lumpy wheel to me.
 
I wouldnt want a timer to control the pH.

I want a pH probe and controller controlling pH.

Your experiment seems like reinventing a lumpy wheel to me.

The point of the info is to give people a way to make an item that is highly regarded in the aquarium industry as one of the best ways to solidly control the c02 into a system. It's not inventing anything it's mimicking an expensive tool/item that a single company sells that is fairly expensive.


Alan/Bryan Thanks for the info I've always wondered what it was that controlled the aquarium plants regulator. Is that packing peanuts inside the box? lol
 
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Has sparked my interest again. I was working on a Arduino project to control the valve. OFF time adjustable from 0.1 to 10 seconds and a ON time adjustable from 0.1 to 2 seconds. Project was close to completion just never got around to buying the valve.

I do have to laugh at the quality of the company's build. Really, styrofoam peanuts !!
 
[/ATTACH]Thought I'd post some photos of my completed regulator. I lucked out and found the regulator on eBay for $25 shipped. It was never used. Alanle helped me with the solenoid and needle valve. I'm pleased with the results. Hopefully this should last for many years to come. Many thanks to Alanle and all those posting here showing that you can build quality equipment without breaking the bank.
 
[/ATTACH]Thought I'd post some photos of my completed regulator. I lucked out and found the regulator on eBay for $25 shipped. It was never used. Alanle helped me with the solenoid and needle valve. I'm pleased with the results. Hopefully this should last for many years to come. Many thanks to Alanle and all those posting here showing that you can build quality equipment without breaking the bank.


That is a sweet looking reg! You scored big on this regulator. This system will outlast you in the hobby:) Remember to put a check valve on your co2 tubing.
 
You want constant voltage not constant current.

12v transformers are $8-10 on Amazon.com

Forgive me, this is a constant VOLTAGE not constant current power supply. I saw those cheaper ones, I went with one that was waterproof for $18. http://amzn.com/B00FWO24US

The little wall warts might burn out or not like the water, and this one came with the power cable spliced on. It seems like a heavy aluminum clad power supply, so I'm hopeful it will last a long time.

I still need to find a cheap enough regulator though, but I'm in no huge rush to.
 
Yes Alan I have a check in line before the reactor and their is one in the bubble counter. I gotta take care of this one.
 
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