How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

[Mache62]

the output port is 1/4 female npt, you need to take out the adapter fitting(red plastic cap in the picture).
the low pressure meter, I assume that you are talking about the low pressure gauge, you can leave it on the regulator.
and that model of swagelok/nupro bonnet needle valve is not good to use, it can't handle the low co2 flow control.

[MENTION=265254]bettatail[/MENTION] when I removed the red cap and tried to add a 1/4 extension it's was too small. I went to HD and got a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer and the 3/8th fit but wouldn't screw all the way in. Are you saying I need to remove that fitting (the output with the red cap) all together?
And yes, I meant the low pressure gage, sorry was tired last night when I posted.

 

[Mache62]

Also, from my research it looks like the Uniweld is the equivalent to a Harris 9296-125-320

 

[bettatail]

yes, remove the whole fitting.

The design of this uniweld indeed looks like older generation of current Harris 9296.

Harris 9296-125-320

 

[bettatail]

on a second thought, the uniweld regulator is slimer than the older generation regulator that replaced by 9296.
I built a co2 system with the older generation regulator once, but can't find the pictures now, the regulator is bulky and with round edge.

 

[LQT]

[MENTION=265254]bettatail[/MENTION] when I removed the red cap and tried to add a 1/4 extension it's was too small. I went to HD and got a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer and the 3/8th fit but wouldn't screw all the way in. Are you saying I need to remove that fitting (the output with the red cap) all together?
And

Though I’m not familiar with that regulator specifically, I would remove the fitting with the hex nut in between the low pressure gauge and the piece with the red cap. To me, that piece in between is what should be removed (it will be 1/4’ fnpt) so that you can attach the post body.

 

[Mache62]

[MENTION=23558]LQT[/MENTION] [MENTION=265254]bettatail[/MENTION] I'll take it to a local welding shop and maybe they can remove...I tried last night but I don't think I'm strong enough.
On another note...is the pictured valve ok to use?

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[LQT]

[MENTION=23558]LQT[/MENTION] [MENTION=265254]bettatail[/MENTION] I'll take it to a local welding shop and maybe they can remove...I tried last night but I don't think I'm strong enough.
On another note...is the pictured valve ok to use?

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Yes, that will work. That metering valve is a brass 1/8" low flow metering valve denoted by the "œB-SS2".

 

[Mache62]

Awesome! Buying ot now.

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[bettatail]

Though I'm not familiar with that regulator specifically, I would remove the fitting with the hex nut in between the low pressure gauge and the piece with the red cap. To me, that piece in between is what should be removed (it will be 1/4' fnpt) so that you can attach the post body.

+ 1

the hex nut on horizontal position is the relief valve.
I am not really sure but I think both the relief valve and the red cap fitting are on the outlet ports, so remove both and put the relief valve back on where the red cap fitting was, then the post body can be accommodated on the horizontal position outlet.

Awesome! Buying ot now.

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Good low flow control metering valve, but this specific model need adapter fittings. check alan's post above, he listed the swagelok adapter part number.


depends on how you want your co2 setup, a solenoid or manual shut off valve can be use. The swagelok/nupro bonnet needle valve that you have, can be use as a shut off valve.
let me know if you want to use a solenoid, I found some good solenoids on ebay and they've stay in my watch list for a while now.

 

[LQT]

+ 1

the hex nut on horizontal position is the relief valve.
I am not really sure but I think both the relief valve and the red cap fitting are on the outlet ports, so remove both and put the relief valve back on where the red cap fitting was, then the post body can be accommodated on the horizontal position outlet.

Interesting... As I’ve mentioned, I’m not familiar with that specific regulator, but every regulator that I’ve worked with from Concoa to AirGas usually have the relief valve in the 7 o’clock position and the outlet fitting in the 9 o’clock position.

 

[bettatail]

Interesting... As I've mentioned, I'm not familiar with that specific regulator, but every regulator that I've worked with from Concoa to AirGas usually have the relief valve in the 7 o'clock position and the outlet fitting in the 9 o'clock position.

yes, those are the typical setup.

there is an airgas regulator on ebay right now, anyone wants it, give it try.
good luck

 

[Mache62]

So this regulator seems to have 2 relief valves, 1 at 5oclock and 1 at 9oclock.
The guys at the local weld shop refused to touch it...which stinks because I can't get these things to budge.
I took a pic of the paperwork that came with it too and there is nothing useful on there.
I'm really bummed at this point as I don't know how I'm going to loosen them up.

I also ordered a burkert 6011 solenoid valve to use as well.

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[LQT]

Use either long handle channel lock pliers or a socket wrench with a a deep pocket socket of the appropriate size. I had a stubborn CGA-580 that was near impossible to get off and the socket wrench worked like a charm.

 

[Mache62]

Well....I wedged between 2 pieces of wood and used a crescent wrench and rubber mallet.

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[Mache62]

Do I wrap the fitting with teflon take like pvc pipe fittings?

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[bettatail]

Do I wrap the fitting with teflon take like pvc pipe fittings?

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yes, teflon tape, or you can use loctite 242/243, or called loctite blue.


that is good idea to use a wood clamp, looks like still take some effort to take out the fitting...

half way done, still need the right fittings, a solenoid and a adapters for the metering valve.

 

[Mache62]

Lol yea I was getting that fitting out one way or another! So my solenoid and swagelok valve are on their way in the mail. To be continued.....
Thanks you guys!

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[bettatail]

Use either long handle channel lock pliers or a socket wrench with a a deep pocket socket of the appropriate size. I had a stubborn CGA-580 that was near impossible to get off and the socket wrench worked like a charm.

I had some encounters that 18" socket wrench fail, the edge/teeth of the cga fittings run completely bold, have to use heavy duty vise clamp.

heavy duty vise clamp and a 4" metal bench vise was the answer for stubborn fittings, until I saw the heavy thread galling:headwalls:

 

[LQT]

I had some encounters that 18" socket wrench fail, the edge/teeth of the cga fittings run completely bold, have to use heavy duty vise clamp.

heavy duty vise clamp and a 4" metal bench vise was the answer for stubborn fittings, until I saw the heavy thread galling:headwalls:

That stinks, I'm in the process of building my 4th regulator... standard socket wrench has always worked for me!

 

[bettatail]

That stinks, I'm in the process of building my 4th regulator... standard socket wrench has always worked for me!

let me know if you want to try some good components, I will show you the links on ebay.

Metering valve selection