How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

What psi check valve should I be looking for and does anyone have a particular ss swagelok they like? Will the 43psi Burkert solenoid be enough or should I hunt for a higher psi rated one?
 
43 psi is low, but if you use a regulator with max output pressure less than 40 psi, this solenoid will be fine.
for swagelok or parker check valves, it is better to get a 5 psi or lower cracking pressure check valve, 1/3 psi is the best.
 
Can anyone tell me if this is a good choice of regulator? It's a Praxair Prostar Platinum 3323391-75-000. I believe this is a concoa 332?
 
alan, In video is the new method that I am talking about. I started a thread in TPT, there is more detail over there, you can check it up if you have time.

the exact flow volume of co2 is known if use high precision flow meter, of course, need air flow rate chart(under specific pressure setting) and calculate/convert scale reading to co2 flow rate. Then total co2 volume, length of injection(time), and water volume will all be the factors to calculate the added co2 PPM value.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQhCFDUH930&feature=youtu.be
 
Question for [MENTION=296993]alanle[/MENTION] or [MENTION=265254]bettatail[/MENTION], in testing a regulator that I helped put together with parts collected by a local reefer, when the metering valve, a Swagelok ss-ss2 is at fully closed (clockwise) the regulator is putting out over 2 bubbles per second. I know that you’re never supposed to use the metering valve to shut off CO2 and that should only be done by the solenoid valve for risk of bending or damaging the delicate needle inside the metering valve. But in trying to adjust the bubble count down in the initial testing of this regulator build, 2 bubbles per second is the slowest flow rate I can get. Can I assume the used metering valve is damaged? I appreciate any insight you may be able to provide.
 
the handle stop when its lower bottom hitting the valve body/shoulder?
if it is the case, you can loose the handle, keep it straight and pull it out only a little bit, then tighten it, now you can turn the handle shut a little bit more, and the needle inside can reach down more to close the orifice. keep the same process until no bubble comes out when the handle stop at the valve shoulder.
 
the handle stop when its lower bottom hitting the valve body/shoulder?
if it is the case, you can loose the handle, keep it straight and pull it out only a little bit, then tighten it, now you can turn the handle shut a little bit more, and the needle inside can reach down more to close the orifice. keep the same process until no bubble comes out when the handle stop at the valve shoulder.

When you say loosen the handle, do you mean twist it counter clockwise and adjust the metering valve to fully open or use an Allen key to actually take apart the handle assembly?
 
I think he means if the shoulder bottoms out before seating inside you would loosen the nut on the handle & pull it up so it can be screwed in slightly more.
 
So I loosened the upper nut, and turned the handle to fully loosen, screwed the nut back down and got the same result... minimum of 2 bubbles per second at the full clockwise position. :( That upper nut however doesn’t seem like it does anything though. It seems more like a retaining nut/washer. Am I adjusypting the proper nut?

49671415632_dae2b3b904_c.jpg
 
When you say loosen the handle, do you mean twist it counter clockwise and adjust the metering valve to fully open or use an Allen key to actually take apart the handle assembly?

allen key to loose the handle from the needle stem, not turn loose the handle
 
Well, I tried my best to get this metering valve to work over the last few days... looks like it’s time to move on and grab a new metering valve. :( I appreciate everyone’s help in trying to help me fix this. :)
 
the top screw is the retaining screw to secure the handle to the needle stem, the lower screw is the retaining screw to hold the handle in place after the flow rate has been set.

you can open this metering valve, to check the needle, be careful not to bend the needle.

I check the metering valves before I put them on the co2 system, because if turn them really hard, the needle will damage.
 
Well, after a couple of months of EBay hunting and reading through this thread several times, finally got all the parts I need and ready for assembly. I'm in stage one of the leak down test on the regulator. I managed to purchase everything for $220 shipped. I wired the solenoid myself, which turned out to be pretty easy and even had a power supply lying around from an old pump that was the right size. Hats off to all of the folks that contributed to this thread. It's been invaluable and I would never have attempted this without it.
Here are some parts pics and will post a finish pic when done.
5da41f968e8c14cb07c115c46f882cde.jpg
c24a1ff9787a5b831398d910c72fb748.jpg
14c97fa222cf010db778073f4a4761c1.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well, after a couple of months of EBay hunting and reading through this thread several times, finally got all the parts I need and ready for assembly. I'm in stage one of the leak down test on the regulator. I managed to purchase everything for $220 shipped. I wired the solenoid myself, which turned out to be pretty easy and even had a power supply lying around from an old pump that was the right size. Hats off to all of the folks that contributed to this thread. It's been invaluable and I would never have attempted this without it.
Here are some parts pics and will post a finish pic when done.
5da41f968e8c14cb07c115c46f882cde.jpg
c24a1ff9787a5b831398d910c72fb748.jpg
14c97fa222cf010db778073f4a4761c1.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great! :) Looking forward Ron shots of the completed build.
 
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