cshutchinson
New member
Great build.... I like the light frame. You should take pic when your halides on
Thanks guys, thank you for looking. I appreciate the comments.
Hutch's 280 Gallon SPS Build
- Thread starter cshutchinson
- Start date
Thanks guys, thank you for looking. I appreciate the comments.
cshutchinson
New member
Here are a couple of update shots. Nothing much going on really. Please excuse the purple tint, the 20k halides just turned off before I started taking pictures, and the Fiji purple T5s are showing their stuff.
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cshutchinson
New member
I have the Zeovit reactors running now. On day 7 of the system. I cleaned the skimmer and the tank glass this morning. No doubt, the BK SM250 is a great skimmer.
The panel is mostly finished now except for the Liter Meter 3 which will go up this weekend. Ever noticed the crazy outlet spacing on an EB8?
The panel is mostly finished now except for the Liter Meter 3 which will go up this weekend. Ever noticed the crazy outlet spacing on an EB8?
cshutchinson
New member
Here is my FT shot for the week. I know you guys wonder why I don't put a cover on the back of the tank, but I really enjoy looking from both sides!
carlosec83
New member
Im with you... dont cover the back..... BTW great choice of everything...im subscribing to your build... if i can find how to do it..
Faisal1976us
New member
Great work :thumbsup:
Lt.Shineysides
New member
Thats an amazing looking tank, i love how clean and organized it is. Great stuff!
great tank! super clean... i like how you organize everything! two thumbs up for you my friend! :thumbsup:
if i may ask, what do you call those plastic squarish thing that holds all your cords? and if i may ask where did you source it? if i ask further to get a link of it... thank you very much!
Regards,
Christian
cshutchinson
New member
Thanks everyone.
Here is the link to the wire channel:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7578k81/=8suo5e
You can buy 6 foot or 3 foot sections.
Here is the link to the wire channel:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7578k81/=8suo5e
You can buy 6 foot or 3 foot sections.
sps aquaria
New member
looks good :thumbsup:
Mr. Brooks
MASVC Member
The photographer missed the week or two of plumbing fun... and he missed the leaks and the 'oh craps', but here are the finished results with my take on a reverse Durso in the sump. It works pretty well as I run the Reeflo Dart at about 75% open. I think they look like mini nuclear reactors in there
Those tee fittings are 3" PVC with a drilled cap. I get mini bubbles out of the bottom of these things, but NO noise and the bubbles don't make it to the return. So all is good I guess. Believe it or not the return pump is running in these pics. Not too bad. The big bubbles in the pic were an anomaly and I haven't seen them since.
Could you explain your reverse dursos a little further? Or snap a close up perhaps? I'm interested in using this idea. Where did you get it?
bmullikin1
New member
Tom, aka glassreef would be proud, ive seen his set up in person, yours looks great, nothing like having your own fishroom, love the aquascaping, very clean.
cshutchinson
New member
I have a better picture attached.
The dual 1-1/2 PVC lines comes to the top of my sump from the returns. From the bulkhead I go to a 1-1/2 90 then to a 1-1/2 to 2" adapter and then to a 3" tee with a 2" leg.
Sections of 3" PVC are cut for the top and bottom of the tee, and a 3" cap is placed on top of the Tee with a few tiny holes drilled so it can exhaust the air escaping.
Basically, the increase in PVC size from the bulkhead slows the water down. Of course I didn't give it much room to slow down as I was limited. At the tee the air bubbles want to rise to the top water level, they burst and the air escapes through the hole drilled in the PVC cap. Some of the bubbles still get forced down with the water as you see. I could slow my return pump down some, but I don't get any bubbles returned to the tank as it is. They don't make it to the bubble trap in the sump. As you can see, if they do make it out of the bottom, they all rise pretty quick right around the 3" tee, and there they stay.
If you take the cap off of the 3" PVC tees, you should see the turbulence and hear all the noise this thing eliminates.
I stumbled across this idea on a google search for a reverse durso.
cshutchinson
New member
This morning I butchered my Tunze osmolator to steal some of its parts. The tunze pump will siphon on you if your ATO water supply is higher than the sump (mine is). So, I have been using the Tunze system with an 18 gallon rubbermaid container. That sucked royally, I go through 10 gallons of water a day for topoff as I run an Apex controlled wall mounted fan to control tank temperature. I can keep it to only a one degree fluctuation after 7 hours of halides.
Anyway, I stole the Tunze magnet mount. Took off the Tunze level transducer, replaced it with another float switch. Now I have a high and low float switch mounted on the Tunze magnet mount in the sump. Here is a picture.
I built a 6 port digital input box for the Apex this weekend, so now these two float switches plug into two of those digital inputs.
Now, when the Apex sees the float switch indicating low water level in the sump, it triggers a Spectrapure pump to top off the sump. Yes, I stole the AC/DC converter from the Tunze unit too! That converter powers the Spectrapure pump with 12 volts DC. The Apex turns the converter on and off as needed to supply power to the Spectrapure pump. The second float switch is a HighWater indicator in which the top off pump is turned off immediately. The Apex also emails and texts me to let me know of the high water level in the sump.
Note what I did here.... I used a Spectrapure remote pump without an LM3 attached. Pretty cool, I impressed myself. It works great and these pumps have an excellent track record for longevity and can be run dry...like when I used all of my RO/DI making salt water.
A productive morning. No more filling that dang rubbermaid container every two days.
Anyway, I stole the Tunze magnet mount. Took off the Tunze level transducer, replaced it with another float switch. Now I have a high and low float switch mounted on the Tunze magnet mount in the sump. Here is a picture.
I built a 6 port digital input box for the Apex this weekend, so now these two float switches plug into two of those digital inputs.
Now, when the Apex sees the float switch indicating low water level in the sump, it triggers a Spectrapure pump to top off the sump. Yes, I stole the AC/DC converter from the Tunze unit too! That converter powers the Spectrapure pump with 12 volts DC. The Apex turns the converter on and off as needed to supply power to the Spectrapure pump. The second float switch is a HighWater indicator in which the top off pump is turned off immediately. The Apex also emails and texts me to let me know of the high water level in the sump.
Note what I did here.... I used a Spectrapure remote pump without an LM3 attached. Pretty cool, I impressed myself. It works great and these pumps have an excellent track record for longevity and can be run dry...like when I used all of my RO/DI making salt water.
A productive morning. No more filling that dang rubbermaid container every two days.
