Jackson's 115 Gallon Custom Cube 32x32x26
- Thread starter jackson6745
- Start date
DiscusHeckel
Acropora Gardener
Thank you. That is an Ora pearl berry. The white balance is a little off in that pic so it's hard to tell. I've grown that out from a booger 2 years ago. It's about 8" across now. I love that piece
I did not know what "ORA pearl berry" meant initially, but having looked at ORA's web-site, I realised that it is something similar to A. desalwii, which is what I thought it was.
I have bought a fairly large A. desalwii frag recently. I have high hopes from this frag. I have been warned about the fragile nature of this coral, which the ORA website seems to confirm too.
I would like to know how much light and flow this particular coral receives in your tank.
Thank you.
It'll be interesting to note the specifics that he has his Pearlberry under. Most people (myself included) get a white body with blue/purple corallites (hence the pearl & berry), however he gets a green body and purple corallites. Very unique. I wonder if it's from higher nutrient flow (in + out) than most people have in SPS tanks.
It looks stunning in person, it's just a slightly different coloration than most other people get. And I don't think it's the lights, because when I saw it like that (and got a frag) it was under halide, and now it's holding those colors still under his new T5 rig.
koral_lover
New member
Thank you! May I also ask the details of your photoperiod...for example, when do your reefbrites come on, T5s, and MH? As well as duration?
Thanks. That was sold to me as an Ora Blue Iris. It was a very large colony at one point but I lost most of it several months back. It's regrowing nicely now.
LOL funny because my reeflux bulb came from Chris. We were trading used bulbs last year. I used to run 400w 10k reeflux years ago in an old system using coralvue ballast and I don't remember them being this pink. On the lumatek ballast that I'm running now it looks like pepto :lolspin:
Thanks Jorge
Thanks! I feed fish spectrum pellets, new era algae pellets, cobalt mysis + spirulina flake, LRS reef frenzy herbivore, mysis, and cyclopeeze. I also dose aquavitro fuel a few times per week but this stuff gives me a small amount of cyano. I'm currently trying different amino brands to find one that doesn't affect cyano growth. :hammer:
Thank you. That is an Ora pearl berry. The white balance is a little off in that pic so it's hard to tell. I've grown that out from a booger 2 years ago. It's about 8" across now. I love that piece
Have you tried Selcon? http://www.amazon.com/American-Mari...ie=UTF8&qid=1454039224&sr=8-1&keywords=selcon
xxxduke62xxx
New member
Rich seriously how have you and I never traded corals geez lol looks awesome as always
jackson6745
Yeah Yeah
Thanks E. This corals has done well in my tank and survived a few mishaps
Here she was on Jan 27th 2014
jan 27th pearlberry by rich colombo, on FlickrIt's different than a deswalli, but I guess it's a similar fragile coral. You won't see the crazy polyp extension on a pearl berry that you would on a deswalli. Actually, I used to have a deswalli colony in my tank (sold for space). That colony and my pearlberry both were receiving 500 par and loving it.
It's probably my nutrient level. here is a pic when the tank was younger and a little cleaner. I think this corals displayed more common colors here.
IMG_2184 by rich colombo, on FlickrSure, I'm running 6 hours MH, 10 hrs t5, and 12hrs, blue led.
10am blue LED ON
11am T5 ON
1:30pm halide ON
7:30pm halide OFF
9:00pm T5 Off
10pm blue LED OFF
:thumbsup:That's one heck of a PB you got there Rick
I never used selcon before but I should probably try it. I have a drab colored bartletts anthias, and sometimes my wrasses colors become a little muted.
Because you already have all of the good stuff
I plan on heading out to see your tank (if I'm invited ) and Tusi's tank one day this winter. I made an equipment upgrade the other day that I'm excited about. Last week, I soaked my MP40 wet sides in vinegar like I normally do. When I put them back in the tank 2 of the 3 vortechs seized up after a few minutes of use. Upon inspection I discovered plastic from the rear cover was melted down into the magnet. I don't understand how this could happen, but I looked at it as an opportunity to upgrade. A few local guys recommended that I upgrade not only wetsides, but the drivers also to take advantage of the QD increased flow and reduced noise.
After a quick swap of the circuit boards the new QD's were running..... and almost COMPLETELY SILENT! My wife is more happy with this upgrade than any other "must have" upgrades lol. I can't really tell if there's more flow.
IMG_6078 by rich colombo, on Flickr
jackson6745
Yeah Yeah
Beautiful top down Richard, sorry I mispelled Rich in the last post, could not edit, lol... That PB reminds me of mine back in the day, so colorful
I respond to Rick:lolspin:
That top down is from last year. Here is a more recent top down, you can see that it's more teal in color now. I'm guessing nutrient related, but also maybe from a change in light since it was moved with a re-scape last month.
IMG_5938 by rich colombo, on Flickr
jackson6745
Yeah Yeah
It really is an amazing difference. I can't even tell if they're in feed mode or pulsing. I think I have been feeding too much lately. I'm going to back off a little and clean things up a little. I like deep colors, but there's a fine line when they become too deep and growth slows. I'm teetering on a fine line at the moment
mhucasey
Acros & wieners, oh my!
I respond to Rick:lolspin:
That top down is from last year. Here is a more recent top down, you can see that it's more teal in color now. I'm guessing nutrient related, but also maybe from a change in light since it was moved with a re-scape last month.
So.much.pearlberry.:bigeyes:
xxxduke62xxx
New member
You don't even have to be invited, just text me your on your way. I have a open door policy and this house
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Hi Rich,
I have a few questions I'd be grateful if you could answer. As you know I've picked up a 400w Giesemann unit with I intend to run with a Lumatek Ballast with SuperLumens switch.
1. How often do you replace the T5 tubes? With ATI fixtures the tubes are acvtively cooled...the Giesemann is not, hence I would expect the tubes to not last as long as those in an ATI fixture. I might try and install active cooling for the T5's.
2. How often are you replacing the 400w Radium? Are you running at 400w or higher?
3. How high above the water do you have your Giesemann fixture?
4. How long do you run halide/T5/LEDs?
5. Is your reflector for the halide slightly hazy? Mine is just a little hazy above the bulb due to heat probably, rest of reflector is fine. I'm wondering if I should attempt polishing the reflector...
Thanks. And a nice update with top down 1080p 5 minute video will be awesome lol.
I have a few questions I'd be grateful if you could answer. As you know I've picked up a 400w Giesemann unit with I intend to run with a Lumatek Ballast with SuperLumens switch.
1. How often do you replace the T5 tubes? With ATI fixtures the tubes are acvtively cooled...the Giesemann is not, hence I would expect the tubes to not last as long as those in an ATI fixture. I might try and install active cooling for the T5's.
2. How often are you replacing the 400w Radium? Are you running at 400w or higher?
3. How high above the water do you have your Giesemann fixture?
4. How long do you run halide/T5/LEDs?
5. Is your reflector for the halide slightly hazy? Mine is just a little hazy above the bulb due to heat probably, rest of reflector is fine. I'm wondering if I should attempt polishing the reflector...
Thanks. And a nice update with top down 1080p 5 minute video will be awesome lol.
jackson6745
Yeah Yeah
Sahin! I'm excited for you to get this light over your tank
1) I replace each year. The T5 system in the Giesemann absolutely sucks. Don't expect anything close to what the ATI output is. Actually, when running a PAR meter a little under the water surface with 4 blue+, PAR readings are only about 200. I'm not sure if active cooling would increase output?? I'm sure individual reflectors would.
2) I run my radium 6 hours daily. I don't notice a drop off in par until about 10 months, that's when I replace.
3) 10" above water surface.
4) T5 for 10, halide for 6, and blue led strips for 12.
5) my reflector is perfectly clear, however, on my sfiligoi it was hazy. I definitely think you should polish it. I'm not sure which chemical would be best, but worth the effort I think.
6) 5 minute video lol Soon So, yesterday I tested po4 for the first time in a month (haven't been run gfo in 6 weeks) . You see, I have an experienced SPS keep yeah that can see phosphate levels, or so I thought The tank showed no sign of po4 except for slower SPS growth. The test result on the Hanna low-range meter showed .21
I though it was an error so I cleaned the vials thoroughly and tested again. Result was .24 on the second test!!! I even tested with a Red Sea po4 kit and that read .18 So much for the trained eye.
I did a 20% water change yesterday and put a fresh cup of ROWA in the reactor. PO4 reading this morning was .1 Having po4 this high along with my 25ppm nitrates reminds me of thread that Thales stared about his tank and high po4.
Here are current pics with a po4 reading of .2, I prefer much lower
IMG_6654 by rich colombo, on Flickr
IMG_6661 by rich colombo, on Flickr
1) I replace each year. The T5 system in the Giesemann absolutely sucks. Don't expect anything close to what the ATI output is. Actually, when running a PAR meter a little under the water surface with 4 blue+, PAR readings are only about 200. I'm not sure if active cooling would increase output?? I'm sure individual reflectors would.
2) I run my radium 6 hours daily. I don't notice a drop off in par until about 10 months, that's when I replace.
3) 10" above water surface.
4) T5 for 10, halide for 6, and blue led strips for 12.
5) my reflector is perfectly clear, however, on my sfiligoi it was hazy. I definitely think you should polish it. I'm not sure which chemical would be best, but worth the effort I think.
6) 5 minute video
lol Soon So, yesterday I tested po4 for the first time in a month (haven't been run gfo in 6 weeks) . You see, I have an experienced SPS keep yeah that can see phosphate levels, or so I thought The tank showed no sign of po4 except for slower SPS growth. The test result on the Hanna low-range meter showed .21 I though it was an error so I cleaned the vials thoroughly and tested again. Result was .24 on the second test!!! I even tested with a Red Sea po4 kit and that read .18 So much for the trained eye.
I did a 20% water change yesterday and put a fresh cup of ROWA in the reactor. PO4 reading this morning was .1 Having po4 this high along with my 25ppm nitrates reminds me of thread that Thales stared about his tank and high po4.
Here are current pics with a po4 reading of .2, I prefer much lower
IMG_6654 by rich colombo, on FlickrIMG_6661 by rich colombo, on Flickr
Bpb
New member
There must be something to the balance. Conventional wisdom for years now is that your acros will brown and or die under long exposure to high no3 and po4. This tank is perfect evidence against that...being that these acros have perhaps some of the most vibrant colors of any on the entire forum
jackson6745
Yeah Yeah
There's definitely a balance I think, which is why my tank isn't covered with cyano at the moment, but there's something to be said for high PAR evenly spread lighting. If I had a shallow frag tank with a 400w radium giving everything 500 par I would be inclined to keep these water parameters to keep deep colors and still have good growth. I would also be able to experiment with photo period and maybe even different, higher par bulbs. Just like in the old days, we were able to photo-saturate the coral will strong MH lighting despite high nutrients.
Unfortunately this is a 26" high tank with SPS from top to bottom Top of the tank gets 500-700 par, and bottom gets 200-300, middle obviously in a middle range.
With nutrient this high I have seen growth slow down considerably on corals getting less par. I lost white growth tips on a bunch of pieces and have seen an overabundance of brown shaggy polyps. I also notice that my night time PE is not what it was. An old TOTM article from Jamie Cross mentioned night time PE as a heath indicator. There wasn't scientific proof but this always stuck in my head over the head, and I do observe the correlation.
My target water parameter is 10ppm No3 along with .03 po4. I know a lot of guys say "don't chase number" but numbers are a good guideline for us to follow, if you're using quality kits or meters. I say if you don't chase numbers, you're chasing your tail
