Lanthanum chloride

36 hrs after stopping the treatment Im holding at .0307. This is an amazing thread! Thank you all for your input and efforts here.
 
I just set one of my friends up to run lanthum on his 400 gallon system. The setup is a Bermuda 3C skimmer (just for lanthanum) with the intake Tee'd to 1.1ml dosing pump. the output of this skimmer is run to a 10 micron sock.

No-one in town had seaklear so we have some on order. we will be starting with 1ml to 500ml of RODI going in at 1.1ml/hour which is about 7.5 hours.

looking forward to the first run, hopefully this weekend!
 
I just set one of my friends up to run lanthum on his 400 gallon system. The setup is a Bermuda 3C skimmer (just for lanthanum) with the intake Tee'd to 1.1ml dosing pump. the output of this skimmer is run to a 10 micron sock.

No-one in town had seaklear so we have some on order. we will be starting with 1ml to 500ml of RODI going in at 1.1ml/hour which is about 7.5 hours.

looking forward to the first run, hopefully this weekend!

what advantage does the skimmer have as opposed to just dripping into the sock directly?
 
what advantage does the skimmer have as opposed to just dripping into the sock directly?

Looking for (1) some reaction time with the tank water before making it to the sock (2) skimmer should pull some of the precipitate out which will reduce sock replacement intervals.

This setup (when it's done) will have a float switch in the sock to shut off when full & send a text message
 
Looking for (1) some reaction time with the tank water before making it to the sock (2) skimmer should pull some of the precipitate out which will reduce sock replacement intervals.

This setup (when it's done) will have a float switch in the sock to shut off when full & send a text message

By no means am I an expert on this topic since I've only completed one treatment but I will say that I dripped at a very slow rate of 1.1ml per minute into a sock that was at the end a drain line. there was plenty of contact, I had no noticeable clogging of the filter sock and was able to drop the po4 level better than 50% in a little over a day.

can someone post a picture of the bottle of seaclear they are using?

there seems to be 2 for spa's - a "CR" version and a commercial strength version (with no picture).

http://www.seaklear.com/what/seaklear-products/seaklear-phosphate-remover-cr
http://www.seaklear.com/what/seaklear-phosphate-remover-commercial

Bertoni believes the CR is more diluted: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2195003

This is the one that I used.....

http://www.backyardpoolsuperstore.com/SeaKlear-Phosphate-Remover-1qt_p_5579.html
 
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Looking for (1) some reaction time with the tank water before making it to the sock (2) skimmer should pull some of the precipitate out which will reduce sock replacement intervals.

This setup (when it's done) will have a float switch in the sock to shut off when full & send a text message

I like it, let us know how it works :thumbsup:
 
just my opinion...

the MECHANICAL FILTER (ie: "sock" or what have you) should be the primary means of removing flocculent.
Skimmer is "clean up" for what the mechanical filter misses.

You will get much more contact time dripping LaCl3 into drain lines or a filter sock and then directly into a skimmer.
 
So I am finding that my po4 levels are returning back to pre LaCl3 dosing levels within a few days after dosing. Im not over feeding, I am religious about 15% weekly wc's and my ATB 10.5 skimmer is beast with pullig gunk out of the tank. I did test my effluent from my Ca reactor and the po4 level in there is .10 and while that bothers me a little I dont think I drip enough for it to bring my tank levels up in a few days. All of this leads me to believe that I am leaching po4 from some thing else. I did start my tank up with BRS pukani rock 6 months ago but I did cure that for 2 months with a phoshfree solution until the water read zero.

So here's my question.....is it safe to do a daily maintenance dose of LaCl3 via a dosing pump? I've ordered more filter socks so I will be able to rotate them out as needed and I will try to figure out what would be a sufficient daily dosing amount to keep my po4 at a level I am comfortable with.
 
So I am finding that my po4 levels are returning back to pre LaCl3 dosing levels within a few days after dosing. Im not over feeding, I am religious about 15% weekly wc's and my ATB 10.5 skimmer is beast with pullig gunk out of the tank. I did test my effluent from my Ca reactor and the po4 level in there is .10 and while that bothers me a little I dont think I drip enough for it to bring my tank levels up in a few days. All of this leads me to believe that I am leaching po4 from some thing else. I did start my tank up with BRS pukani rock 6 months ago but I did cure that for 2 months with a phoshfree solution until the water read zero.

So here's my question.....is it safe to do a daily maintenance dose of LaCl3 via a dosing pump? I've ordered more filter socks so I will be able to rotate them out as needed and I will try to figure out what would be a sufficient daily dosing amount to keep my po4 at a level I am comfortable with.

yes, as long as you don't overdose and drop P04 too quickly and/or allow LC precipitate to get into your DT
 
I have a heavily stocked 280g fowlr system that I utilize a constant drip of 10 ml per hour 24/7 via a medical dosing pump. The solution is diluted to the ratio of 1 ml per 100 ml of RO/DI water. So basically I am dosing 2.4 ml of LaCl3 into my system per day over the course of 24 hours.

After the initial high treatment of 10 ml of pure LaCl3 per day to drop the P04 down, I started with the diluted solution of 5 ml per hour which equated to 1.2 ml undiluted for a 24 hour period but after a week, the level of P04 was rising so I increased the amount to the 10 ml per hour. After one week, I tested and the level of P04 was dropping slowly so that is where I have it now.
Downside if anyone else has noticed is the white hazing that forms on the glass panels. Magnets and scrubbing pads have little to no effect in removing the haze but I found that a Magic Eraser will take most of it off. Just a PIA to do when your tank is running and full of water.
 
Downside if anyone else has noticed is the white hazing that forms on the glass panels. Magnets and scrubbing pads have little to no effect in removing the haze but I found that a Magic Eraser will take most of it off. Just a PIA to do when your tank is running and full of water.

Are you doing anything to catch the precipitate (filter socks, settling tank, skimmer?)

For the others - have you noticed a haze? Is there a tweak or method to help mitigate it?
 
Yes and no, I don't utilize 10 micron socks because they would clog in 2 hours. I do drip slowly via a medical doser into 50 micron sock where the main drain is configured and this is within a compartment of the sump where the skimmer is fed.
 
Yes and no, I don't utilize 10 micron socks because they would clog in 2 hours. I do drip slowly via a medical doser into 50 micron sock where the main drain is configured and this is within a compartment of the sump where the skimmer is fed.

Im using a BRS dosing pump at 1.1ml per min and a 10 micron filter sock and have had no issues with clogging at all.
 
I know some of my questions have been answered but 29 pages is a lot of reading...

Are those of you who are using filter socks choosing a specific material? I see references to a 10 micron size, but at that size I can find singed polyester felt bags and NMO (flat woven monofilament nylon) bags. I would guess the NMO bags load up quicker but are probably way better for repeated cleaning/reuse.

I know there are PFTE-coated felt bags out there that are supposed to be as good as polyester felt but as easy to clean as NMO but I can't find any at a reasonable price in the right sizes...
 
I use 10 micron poly. I do LaCl3 treatments in the manner I describe in this thread- I would never ever choose to do a constant drip.
My intent is to clog my 10 micron filter bags relatively quickly during a treatment. I can haze my aquarium's glass if I treat too much or too quickly- but the hazing wipes off easily.

The main reason I use LaCl3 is to lower PO4 levels that inhibit calcification in living growing corals. Personally, I would not and do not use LaCl3 in FO or FOWLR systems. If problematic alga is present in a FO or FOWLR system I would strongly suggest using herbivores to control it, but to each his own.
 
For most of the summer I ignored my tank and let things go a little bit; however, I've now got things cleaned up again and I can report that I am flatworm free. The only treatment made to my tank was with Lanthanum (as noted below) and it worked beautifully. I couldn't imagine a more safe and effective treatment for such a pest.

I would be very interested in hearing if someone else has had similar experiences.



Anyone dosing Lanthanum have flatworms?

My recent tank observations:
>Last dose of Lanthanum was in November of 2011.
>In December I noticed that I had a collection of new critters (red flatworms).
>Since then I have been siphoning out what I could during water changes to keep them from reaching plague proportions.
>4/2/12 I dosed Lanthanum "“ process was 10ml via a 5 hr drip into 5 micron filter bags. The bags clogged quickly and I changed them out with clean ones as necessary.
>4/3/12 did a 5% water change.
>4/4/12 I changed out my filter bags and noticed that a significant quantity of flat worms had been captured.
> I see about a 90% reduction in the flatworm population now "“ the ones that are left are curled up and look ****ed!!

Theory: Lanthanum may be a tool to use to control or eliminate flatworms.

Anyone have any experience with this?

Relevant system info:
500gal actual water volume
Sporadic 5-10% water changes
Light protein skimming
Regular use of 5-10 micron filter bags
Tank temp 77-78*
PH 8 to 8.4
Feeding heavy once daily
There were no changes to these parameters during this period
 
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