Lanthanum chloride

After reading through this thread and others I ordered a bottle of SeaKlear Phosphate Remover on ebay to help speed along the curing of some Pukani dry rock.

I just got the package today and found they had sent me PhosKlear 4000 instead. I believe this is a combination of Phosphate Remover and their "Natural Clarifier".

Is this safe to use or should I send it back? I tried searching the archives and couldn't find any definitive responses to this. It wont be going into my tank, it would just be for my brutes of curing dry rock.
 
They used to include the clarifier in a separate bottle. I never used it. Sounds ok but I really don't know what if any impurities are in it . They say it's made of crab shells.
 
I use Kem-Tech Phosphate Remover from home depot as it was the only thing available locally. According to the MSDS sheet its about 7% lanthanum and 97% water? How this is possible I have no clue, I'm not the best with math; but I can add and this don't look right. But it works for me. I have a reasea reefer nano, I add the lanthanum to the sump at about 2.5 ml per dose. I just pour it in since its mostly water anyway; I can say so far its working great. My PO4 on 1/10/2016 was 1.13 after 3 days of dosing its down to 0.13.

Day 1 1.13
Day 2 0.77
Day 3 0.23
Day 4 0.13

My ph with dosing 2.5ml doesn't move that much maybe from 8.3 down to 8.2, BUT i also dose Cal. & ALK. These are dose late in the evening around 1pm with my doser, lanthanum is dosed around 6am before I leave for work.

So if people can't get seaclear locally, go to homedepot or lowes and pickup the kem-tek.
 
I tried to find out the MSDS sheet for Sea Klear, but I guess the formulation is secret. It only lists Lanthanum Chloride.

According to the posts you should drip it into a 10 Micron sock. I hope you did that.

I clogged up a 10 micron filter, with the material binding to the phosphate, in about 4 hours of dripping and had to swap out the sock with another.

The concern with just pouring it in is this bound material might get into the gills of your fish and cause irritation.

I also dose Alk and Calcium and it took my Calc down 20%, which I had to make up.

rich
 
GROSSR said:
I tried to find out the MSDS sheet for Sea Klear, but I guess the formulation is secret. It only lists Lanthanum Chloride.

According to the posts you should drip it into a 10 Micron sock. I hope you did that.

I clogged up a 10 micron filter, with the material binding to the phosphate, in about 4 hours of dripping and had to swap out the sock with another.

The concern with just pouring it in is this bound material might get into the gills of your fish and cause irritation.

I also dose Alk and Calcium and it took my Calc down 20%, which I had to make up.

rich
Click to expand...

I dump the 2.5ml into the drain from my display to my sump. I didn't use the sump that came with the reefer setup as I didn't like it to small. I used my old eshopps nano cube sump that I had with my old setup. This way it goes to my filter sock and then to either my skimmer chamber or refuge. My refuge is only rock rubble for now, maybe later I will actually setup the refuge.

The product i use is already heavily diluted, 7% lanthanum and 93% water. So I get a few seconds of cloudiness, but by the time it get back to my display its all clear and fish are not affected. The only thing that is bad is all the polyp extension on my corals. :spin3:
 
Still fighting the good fight against GHA. If corals were only this tough and easy to gtow!! Added a big long spine urchin and a tuxedo urchin. Hands down the best cleanup specimens I have owned. Much better than snails, seahares and crabs. These guys are mowing through the GHA and are also opening up the surface of my rock which has bound up phosphate. That's where the Sea Klear is really helping, but this isn't a one time treat and forget routine. I have dosed multiple 10 ml doses into a 5 micron sock via a slow drip. Still physically removing GHA every 2 weeks and doing a 20% water change. Getting better every week, but still have a ways to go.

Big question. The Sea Klear does leave a very hard to remove white film on the glass. I know this has been mentioned before, but what have people found is the best way of getting rid of this. Magnetic scraper doesn't really do much. Razor blade on a 6 foot tank is a PIA and it doesn't seem to get it all either. I read the Magic Eraser works but what chemicals is that adding to our tanks??? Any other things people have found that works?

Thanks!
Mark
 
I've been using Seakleer (as I described in this thread) for seven years and there's no white film on my glass....

Some of the algae cases I've been reading about in this thread would have been better solved by biological turgor ("cooking" the rock with no heat)
 
NEED PROCEDURE & DOSING INSTRUCTIONS

I have 100 pounds of Live Rock in a Rubbermaid container with saltwater and a power head running. My phosphate measured out about 5.0 using the 713 Hanna Phosphate checker. I know the rock must be leaching Phosphates.Therefore, I want to start a Lanthanum Chloride treatment to bring the Phosphate level under control. My intention is to use a Brute garbage can for the treatment container.
What is the procedure I should follow step by step? Can I just add Lanthanum Chloride to the container? How much lanthanum Chloride and at what strength? I do not have a dosing pump and was planning on simply pouring it into the container How long do I let it sit? Do I use saltwater or ROID water? I assume I make 100% water change and repeat until my PSO4 level drops to a acceptable level.
Thank You for all the help.
Mike
 
Rich;

I have spent the last two hours reading this thread. The majority of the thread deals with treating an existing tank. Its been informative reading but does not address my situation.
My desire is a procedure to follow if you are not treating an existing tank.
Can anyone help?
 
Glad you read all the pages.

Let me ask this ... why is a tank any different than a garbage can full of rock sitting in salt water? There is no difference (from this discussions perspective). Follow what you read about a tank.

Here is what I do :


I drip into a 20 micron sock. I do that for my tank and the rubbermaid tub sitting outside with 75 lbs of rock. I use the same 20 micron socks, same method to drip. Some folks have talked just putting the LC in the vat, being you don't have fish, that would work, however, I like the idea of swapping out the sock when it begins to overflow.

I use an airline regulator to drip into the sock. You don't need a doser.



rich
 
I think the rock in my tank is leaching phosphates due to the algae growth on it and my water always tests at zero.

Would dripping lanthanum help pull the phosphates out of the rocks? I have seen a few times in this thread that if you are testing at zero, there is no need, but I am sure the algae is just using it as fast as it is released.

I really do not want to pull my rock..
 
The LC won't directly pull the phosphate out of the rock. LC will take any phosphates in the water column out. Now, being your water will be nearer to zero phosphates, the rock will leach more phosphates into the water column, so you can retreat with LC.

Don't pull the rock. Take a maxijet and pump the water from one side of the sump to the other end while you drip the LC in to a 20 micron sock.

rich
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

revclyburn
Anybody using this?
Replies
2
Views
214
griss
griss
J
Mg Powder Mix Ratio when Mg Chloride Powder has Started to Liquify
Replies
5
Views
749
griss
griss
A
Salt water in wood
Replies
6
Views
380
C.Eymann
C.Eymann
revclyburn
Old school Jaubert Plenum
Replies
4
Views
275
griss
griss
J
Heater controller
2
Replies
23
Views
1K
Dustin07
D
Back
Top