sahin
Ultimate Reefer
+1
My LFS has replaced all their MH's will Radions and a few Sols. The hermit crabs could be seen dancing in the disco lights...
The Kessils dont have this issue...but they do have major shadow issues...
LED's with respect to color of Sps corals
- Thread starter Big E
- Start date
+1
My LFS has replaced all their MH's will Radions and a few Sols. The hermit crabs could be seen dancing in the disco lights...
The Kessils dont have this issue...but they do have major shadow issues...
D-Nak
Active member
I tend to agree with this, but with Radions, it's not as noticeable when placed lower on the tank. I run mine at the recommended 8" height, and supplement with T5s so the effect is even less. With other puck-style lighting such as the mentioned Sols, especially when suspended higher, the effect is very pronounced. This was actually the reason I went with Ecotech instead of AI.
I also have Kessils on other tanks, and the effect is not apparent at all, though the shimmer is IMO a bit exaggerated (but this depends on how the light refracts against the water surface and how turbulent the water is).
There are plenty of new multichip designs made for the DIYer now. The LED Group Buy Lumia is one such example. Sorry -- I can't link to it due to RC restrictions.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Yes, placement height makes a difference. Also the new 120degree lens for the Radions helps too.
You are also right, that when supplemented with T5's the disco effect reduces further-but so does the shimmer effect.
N-Dak said:
Interesting. So the old Radions had tighter lenses on them than the current gen does?
I saw Maxspect and last gen Radion Pros side by side at an lfs. The Maxpect had obvious disco, but I did not see it with the Radions. Unfortunately the Radion was not set up properly so it was constantly switching modes. That was rather distracting so maybe there was some disco there as well.
I've also seen the GHL Mitras units and there is absolutely no disco with them. Unfortunately I don't have $2,000 to spend on lighting...
I know about the Lumia and it is one of the options I'm looking at. With this multichip, light spread seems like a potential issue.
To bring this back on topic, I think the issue with colour is solvable. It is a question of the right mix of LEDs. Right now, manufacturers are all over the place with their mix of LEDs. When someone says "my LEDs suck so I'm going back to T5/halide", we have no idea what spectrum profile they are running, so have no idea why the light is not working for them.
TropTrea
New member
I will agree here. But is the shimmer effect not and the disco effect in the same category. With a multi point lighting source with various points being a different color and shimmer can create a disco effect do to the prismatic function of the water surface. The only thing is if the shimmer is magnified enough it now becomes more of a disco effect.
Then you some individuals that like a flat even lighting with no shadows in there tanks while others like a lot of contrast between lighted and shadow areas in the tank. Either effect can be created but someone who like one will hate the other.
With lighting there is are so many different variables. What pleases John could look look disgusting for Mary. I personally thing that is the reason why we have 80% of the disagreements in these lighting threads.
TropTrea
New member
A very strong agreement here. Even with T-5 Lighting people have different tastes in the ratio of blue to full spectrum lighting that fits there taste. Then you go to the top experts and they will disagree with what is the best spectrum for the corals.
Add other factors like an evenly lighted tank like you get with T-5's with minimal shadows compared to a multichip point lighted tank with hard contrasting shadows, some like one and other hate it in preference for the other. Look at the disco effect and shimmer some love it others hate it. But with the proper LED fixture all of these items can be made to pleases anyone's tastes. But there is no one fixture that can make everyone happy today.
tdb320reef
Active member
At 8" above the water with EverGrow fixtures and 90 degree optics 27" deep, I see no disco effect. The most beautiful looking light IMO is MH with LED BLue. Right now I am running 20K bulbs but next I am going to try 14K to balance the blue. With the addition of MH there is not one coral in my tank suffering other that those growing into each-other.
mussel and hate
New member
LEDs needn't have disco effect. Mine don't, but then I have 54 20mm stars butted up one against the other on a 12" Makers HS. If you space them widely with optics color separation will rear it's rainbow head.
Dennis is spot on. I went with LED for the sake of electrical efficiency so low drive current and maximum emitter density is the only way to go, a complete lack of color banding is an ancillary benefit.
Dennis is spot on. I went with LED for the sake of electrical efficiency so low drive current and maximum emitter density is the only way to go, a complete lack of color banding is an ancillary benefit.
Do you have a link to your layout? What leds do you have in each cluster?
I'm thinking that more smaller clusters might be better for spread than a few superclusters (aka evil cluster).
mussel and hate
New member
Sorry Fredfish I'm experiencing difficulty uploading pictures so I have no link for you. I'll do my best to describe it though, it's pretty simple. 6 each True violet, Hyper violet, RapidLED violet gen1, RapidLED violet gen2(Semi C35L-U), 6 Phillips RB, 6 Cree XTE RB, 6 Cree XPE blue, 6 Phillips cyan, and 6 Cree XTE warm white. I'm contemplating swapping the WW for some NW I have laying about.
The array is a staggered linear style with 5 rows alternating 12/11/12/11/12 with violet outside blue/RB inboard of those and the white and Cyan down the center. I don't employ optics. Stars are connected to the Makers HS using BJB solderless connectors so I can swap em out an change em around which I've done quite a bit of already.
I drive the LEDs with a pair of 40W 450ma Inventronics drivers. The violets are on one driver and everything else on the other.
If I can figure out how to upload to my album I'll post pictures there.
The array is a staggered linear style with 5 rows alternating 12/11/12/11/12 with violet outside blue/RB inboard of those and the white and Cyan down the center. I don't employ optics. Stars are connected to the Makers HS using BJB solderless connectors so I can swap em out an change em around which I've done quite a bit of already.
I drive the LEDs with a pair of 40W 450ma Inventronics drivers. The violets are on one driver and everything else on the other.
If I can figure out how to upload to my album I'll post pictures there.
Big E
Premium Member
Are you running an SPS dominant system. I'd like to keep this on topic...........if so, great I'd like to see your array.
Most people will upload their pictures to photobucket or similar site and then load onto RC. If you need any help doing it pm me and I'll walk you through it.
TropTrea
New member
For downloading pictures click on the advanced tag located just under reply box. Then you will get a bigger list of selections on top of the reply box. If you then clip on the little paper clip you will get a new box pop up to allow you to select images or files to insert in the image. Pictures I think must be under 200K or something around there or will give you an error when you download them.
TropTrea
New member
As I constantly warn people all LED's are not the same. This is especially true with commercial fixtures. It is my guess that the LED's you were using lacked in the UV and Blue end of the spectrum. Usually LED's cause the florescent lighting to pop more than it had with other lighting systems. And if there are complaints it is from lack of reflected colors in the green range, or red range dependent on what they are using for full spectrum LED's.
Hey guys, So I have just gone through the entire thread. And it seems like led + t5 combo is a good choice. I am however not picking up too well on all the colour spectrums, kelvin and technicalities as my english is not very good.
I have a maxspect razor 10k, 120w. I like the looks of it, and my sps are doing growing well. My tank is 2ft x 1.5 x 1.5. Light set is 7 inch above the water surface. Current light setting maximum is 65% White, 85% blue.
I would like to install 2x24w t5s, mainly focusing on bringing out the coral colours. Currently, it grows well due to the 10k lighting, but the colour isn't as good as when i first got it. Is installing t5 a viable option for me?
Can someone recommend me the two bulbs i should be using for colour. If i read correctly, its a certain spectrum of light that i need. Will 2 blue plus (460nm) work?
I would really appreciate the advice, am really bad with lightings. Simple lay man terms will also be helpful.
I have a maxspect razor 10k, 120w. I like the looks of it, and my sps are doing growing well. My tank is 2ft x 1.5 x 1.5. Light set is 7 inch above the water surface. Current light setting maximum is 65% White, 85% blue.
I would like to install 2x24w t5s, mainly focusing on bringing out the coral colours. Currently, it grows well due to the 10k lighting, but the colour isn't as good as when i first got it. Is installing t5 a viable option for me?
Can someone recommend me the two bulbs i should be using for colour. If i read correctly, its a certain spectrum of light that i need. Will 2 blue plus (460nm) work?
I would really appreciate the advice, am really bad with lightings. Simple lay man terms will also be helpful.
michaellee64
New member
My suggestion would be 1 Blue Plus and 1 Purple Plus, lower your white led's and run your blues at 100%. The Razor's use cw which is terrible at color rendering but they did throw in some ww's which helped compensate for it. The purple plus will do an awesome job of bringing out the color in your red and orange corals.
Reefvet
New member
roberto_lopes
Member
I Really love this debates. It all keeps turning back to the point if LEDs will or will not be good for your coral colors and growth.
Well I can say one thing for sure after a little over 5 years running ONLY LEDs and all SPS tanks. LED can and will grow anything on your tank with full range of colors BUT, you will have to spend a lot of money and get a good fixture with high PAR output and for what ? If your LED fixture have a lot of PAR (like my Hydras52), you can put it at 30-40cm above the water and have a massive coverage with good PAR all over the tank.
And you will have to buy a lot of them.
I actually use LED only on my 720gal SPS tank and I love them mostly because I don't need to care about changing bulbs, heating the water, etc
LED is a fast growing technology, things that we don't even think on 08's are now reality on our fixtures (like UV and all other colors) and will improve massively on the next years for sure.
Good care and water quality is lot more important than anything.
My corals have at least the same colors as the colonies from where they was taken (under MH and T5) but mostly better not only because the lights but mostly the water.
Keep discussing guys. I really learn a lot.
Regards
Well I can say one thing for sure after a little over 5 years running ONLY LEDs and all SPS tanks. LED can and will grow anything on your tank with full range of colors BUT, you will have to spend a lot of money and get a good fixture with high PAR output and for what ? If your LED fixture have a lot of PAR (like my Hydras52), you can put it at 30-40cm above the water and have a massive coverage with good PAR all over the tank.
And you will have to buy a lot of them.
I actually use LED only on my 720gal SPS tank and I love them mostly because I don't need to care about changing bulbs, heating the water, etc
LED is a fast growing technology, things that we don't even think on 08's are now reality on our fixtures (like UV and all other colors) and will improve massively on the next years for sure.
Good care and water quality is lot more important than anything.
My corals have at least the same colors as the colonies from where they was taken (under MH and T5) but mostly better not only because the lights but mostly the water.
Keep discussing guys. I really learn a lot.
Regards
michaellee64
New member
Sorry.. ww is warm white and cw is cool white.
WW = warm white
NW = neutral white
CW = cool white
RB = royal blue
CB = cool blue also known as TB = true blue
CY = cyan known as Turquoise
R = red
DR = deep red
UV = ultra violet
TV = true violet
WW = warm white
NW = neutral white
CW = cool white
RB = royal blue
CB = cool blue also known as TB = true blue
CY = cyan known as Turquoise
R = red
DR = deep red
UV = ultra violet
TV = true violet
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