Let's See Some T5 Only Lite Tanks (remember Just T5 Lite Tanks) :-)

dwdenny, You can get the triad ballasts for pretty cheap on ebay usually and then you won't be taking a risk... I picked up two of the triads that are good for 2-4' bulbs each for about $54.00 for the pair.
 
5 lamps on one 30 dollar ballast.... On a cost vs. risk assessment I'd say it is worth a shot. I'd run one GE lamp, 2 aquablues and 2 bluepluses to start and see what you think. It shouldbe a good starting point.
 
wharfrat48 said:
Tank is just over a year old and I'm thinking of ordering some replacement bulbs. I'm currently running triad ballasts with daylight//blue+//aquablue//actinic//daylight//blue+ on my 75g. I've heard the acitinic last a max of 1 year so I was trying to decide to get another or switch to another blue+. Anybody have any suggestions/pics of 6 lamp set-ups? Also wanted to ask about the reflectors, my SLS Tek reflectors are hazing up a bit. Anyone else have this problem. Are there better reflectors available?

Thanks

Rich

Ice Cap SLR reflectors from reefgeek are better and should fit in the same space assuming you are using retros. Switching the actinic with another blueplus should give you a slightly more blue look than you currently have.
 
WOW is all I can say great looking tank drock.

Might have to take a look at ebay that is for sure. Not really sure but what are the icecap ballast(program start or instant start)

drock what are you lamp configuration on your tank. that is about the color I am looking for in my tank.

Grim Reefer: That is what I am thinking as well the WH 8 is the same as the 7 but with five leads for 5 lamps. 5X39w= 195w well under the ballast rated wattage so I should be fine.
 
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The Grim Reefer said:
5 lamps on one 30 dollar ballast.... On a cost vs. risk assessment I'd say it is worth a shot. I'd run one GE lamp, 2 aquablues and 2 bluepluses to start and see what you think. It shouldbe a good starting point.

5x$30 if you have to replace the bulbs in half the time almost buys you a IC 660 ballast the first time you buy new bulbs. If you still get the full life out of the bulbs then it will be worth the risk.

FWIW, most of the time in this hobby when I've tried to go cheap on something I've ended up upgrading later.
 
Are the IC program start? I don't see how ballast can overdrive a bulb and the bulb not expire early like witht the WH ballasts. To me it would basically be the same thing. Just my 2 cents
 
It's not the same thing. Look in the Ice cap forum. They have been testing T5's on their ballasts for awhile.

Workhorse and IC are not your only options either. I'm running 8 bulbs. 6 on IC 660's and 2 on triads.

I looked into getting the workhorse ballasts initially because of the cost and I found too many negative opinions out there for me to be comfortable with them. It's been almost a year since I installed my lights so there should be more info on how good/bad the workhorses really are.
 
I worded that wrong now that I reread my post. You are right ovr-driving them is not the same. I will read up on WH with T5 and see if there is any furthur problems/concerns. Thanks for the input.
 
The Ice Cap is a soft start or something. They don't hurt the lamps and because of the way they drive the lamp (high frequency) IC claims it doesn't kill them sooner even though they are being overdriven. You do produce a lot more heat overdriving the lamps but the money spent on an Ice Cap ballast is always well spent:D

The WH ballast will hurt the electrodes which will kill the lamps early. The one manufacture that listed life for both ballasts had a 25% less life running T5 on an instant start ballast. But, for our purposes is it going to make a huge difference? The 20000 hour rating using a proper ballast would be over 4 years of use at 12 hours a day. It is suggested we change them out at less than half that number. 2 things will effect the quality of the light as the lamp ages. The aging process on the phosphers and a decrease of the UV light produced inside the lamp. Hammering the electrodes will accelerate the decrease of the UV light but how much? It shouldn't affect the phosphores. I would say using the Workhose will cause the lamp to need to be replaced sooner but will it be a big enough difference to really matter? Dunno.
 
I will be the guine pig for that if someoen has a WH they are will to give up! j/k. I am really thinking that if I could get 14-18 months use then really and truely what have I lost. Most MH will last 12 months so on average I could possibly get 4 months or more out of T5 worth a shot to me. And if it doesn't work well then I have a ballast for emergency use only.
 
I seem to remember a postfrom someone with over a year running a WH. I know Horkn has been running 39 watters for like 5 months and say he has yet to see any dark rings on the lamps which would indicate the electrodes are being splattered.
 
Wouldn't you say it was worth a shot especially if you could get the ballast for free. I talked to my uncle and he called his distributor and he thought he had a WH8 that he had as a sample that if he just needed one he would give it up. This is all if he still has one or not. But still 30-40 dollars is not that bad.
 
i am running a wh5 for my blue+ bulb, been about 6 months and it doesnt look any different th the other 4 bulbs being ran an the URI A4 ballast. Hey grim, the results about running the A4 with T5's, remember i was the guine pig for that one, dont try it, mine ran fine for about 5mo. then about a few weeks ago i would come home in the middle of the day and the lights would be off, then two days ago while doinga water change, the ballast never fired, just blew a fuse. So now i am running one aquable on my wh5 ballast while i wait for the 660 to arrive. Now i can really tell the difference between a lot of light a a little light, my ricordia i really looking great now but all the sps isnt happy with me

Tim
 
Bummer that the URI didn't hold up. At least we know Ice Cap wasn't just trying to sell ballasts. I asked them about running the VHO T6's I have on the ballast given the lamp had a lower resistance than T5 and they said it would be worth a try but couldn't gurantee anything which I didn't ask them to, an honest answer. Once I do it they want me to let them know how it goes.
 
sounds cool, atleast you got an honest answer the first time from them, when i first asked about the A4 running T5's everyone said alll ok , then after i bought it i asked again to double check and they said no, well they werent joking around. Hopefully the 660 will drive the bulbs a little brighter, not that my lps will like it but they are going out with the sand bed

Tim
 
I am going to go ahead and try it and see what happens. Like I said earlier if it dramaticly decrease lamplife then I will replace the ballast with IC. I know they are the best but if I can get the WH for free then truely what have I lost but a little time and of course the money on the bulbs. How much better at the SLR reflectors over the SLS reflectors or over the refelctors of aqualux. Just asking I know Grim you had shipping problems with aqualux and all but I am just asking. I cannot seem to find any one complaining about the aqualux reflectors but on the other hand I have only found one promoting them. Would there be that much of a difference between the three different types as far as light penitration distribution?
 
oh yeah grim, looks like the 660 drives the bulbs a bit brighter than the A4 did :D for me and :( for the softies

Tim
 
dwdenny said:
I am going to go ahead and try it and see what happens. Like I said earlier if it dramaticly decrease lamplife then I will replace the ballast with IC. I know they are the best but if I can get the WH for free then truely what have I lost but a little time and of course the money on the bulbs. How much better at the SLR reflectors over the SLS reflectors or over the refelctors of aqualux. Just asking I know Grim you had shipping problems with aqualux and all but I am just asking. I cannot seem to find any one complaining about the aqualux reflectors but on the other hand I have only found one promoting them. Would there be that much of a difference between the three different types as far as light penitration distribution?

Aqualax reflectors aren't quite as efficient as the Ice Cap but better than SLS. At like 14" of water there isn't a real difference in any of the three. The only "issue" I would have with the Aqualux is they are bigger than the other two. They are just over 3 1/8th inch wide. The Ice Cap is 2 1/4 and the SLS about 2 1/8".
 
well I have 18" wide to cover and only 16" of depth. I will have to take a look if I do go with the 5X39w and aqualux reflectors then I still have 2.25" to spare so not sure if it all will make a difference at all. I really do appreciate all the information you have given me. Thanks again and I finally feel like I can make a choice and feel comfortable with it.
 
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