Lunchbucket's 48"x48"x20" Reef

[tacocat]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9496544#post9496544 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Goodwin9
Just remember to bring along a tape measurer when you look at houses.....My guess is that you probably couldn't go out and buy just the tank for that kind of money. It's a heck of a deal.

I almost bought a 36" wide tank, but the stand would have never made it into my house. My front door is the largest door and it only opens 35.5". Our house is a newer house, so it doesn't have a sliding door to the back yard. It only has two single doors.

You maybe able to pass it through a window.

 

[petedoc]

Keep in mind that you can always pull a window out to get it in. That cost me 100$ and a cold one after my friend got done with the job.

 

[Lunchbucket]

petedoc - Thanks for the advice! tacocat - you're on the ball too

ok I have a question now. I'm planning on taking the tank to ReefMania and have the Sched. 40 1.5" bulkhead holes reamed out to 1.5" Sched. 80 holes. He has a suction type plate that gives his router a guide so I'm not worried about them getting messed up...they'll be clean and nice and I'll have Sched 80's in there. What I want to know is do you guys think dual 1.5" intakes will be enough for my Dart CL pump? I don't know why it wouldn't but I want to check. I was thinking of doing the dual intakes as 2" but that is quite big and I'm thinking 1.5" will be enough.

Went to Lowes and priced out Unions and TUBV's I actually think they are cheaper then the online places I've been checking. I think I'm going to get all my plumbing, unions, and valves there unless my local guy comes through. As for the Sched. 80 1.5" Bulkheads I'm thinking Savko.com Anyone have a better place? I'm thinking Thread x Thread. So then I can always unscrew the pieces in case I ever need to change or I messed up

Lunchbucket

 

[jnarowe]

SAVKO is the best IMO. I got a lot of stuff from him and I particularly like the flex PVC he sells. Lowes has sched. 80 unions for the same price as sched. 40, so that is nice. I have used high quality valves from SAVKO wherever I felt they were warranted, and the rest from HD/Lowes, but I can tell you there really is a big difference in quality and how they work. I have two 1.5" lines between two sumps with dual union ball valves I got at Lowes, but they are seriously difficult to turn. I mean a real PITA after they have been installed for a while. The high quality ones I have turn very easily and are much easier to disconnect when needed.

thread x thread sounds good but is not necessarily so. First of all, threads can leak and produce salt creep. second, you have to make more connections and in many cases you are actually reducing the diameter of your line in order to use threaded fittings. I tried to plan for screw ups and build with extra pipe material so I could cut and redo if needed. And of course I tried very hard to have the BH positioned so that it could be removed from the container, regardless of whether threaded connections were used or not.

2 x 1.5" intakes for a Dart should be plenty. I use just one on my Hammerhead and it is fine. You know I reamed out a lot of holes while building my system and I just did it with a half round file. It was a little bit of work, but I got an exact fit. I am not sure I would risk moving a tank that size just to ream out holes.

 

[maxxII]

I dont have any experiance with the high quality fittings Jnarowe does, but I havent had any issues with the True Union Ballvalves, or regular unions I bought from Lowes. I honestly figured Lowes bought them directly from the manufacturer in bulk and was able to sell the same thing I could buy on the net at a cheaper price.
Just remember to oversize your unions as they constrict in the middle where the O ring seats. I went with 1 1/4 unions for my 1 inch plumbing, and a 1.5 inch union on my 1 1/4 inch plumbing. The next size up (in Sched 40) had the internal diameters I wanted. Sched 80 might be different, you made need to go larger.

I would think the 1.5 inch bulkheads would be fine for your pump.

I would also go with slip/slip bulkheads if you can. If you're going to go threaded on your bulkhead, go with Male threading on the bottom....and find out what size adapters you need from there. Drains are not where you want narrow choke points.

BTW, I also started a thread on my new set up...figured if the Nancy Boy Extraordinaire was doing it, I might as well do it also.
I'm good like that.

Check it out, your thoughts, observations, and suggestions are always welcome.
Project 150!!

Just refrain from pointing out its smaller than yours. I already know that, thanks....

:rolleye1:

Nick

 

[Lunchbucket]

I have some of the DUBV's from Savko and they are nice..I'll agree. The valves I just saw at Lowes are actually adjustable. The tension of how hard the valve turns is adjustable by removing the handle and using it as a tool on the inside of one of the union sides. Are yours like that??

The 1.5" DUBV's are ~$9.00 cheaper at Lowes than Savko.com I think I'm gonna go w/ Lowes. Cheaper and if I mess up I have a replacement quick and handy. Plus if I mess up one side I can get another valve and only use that 1 half of the union or valve. I've done this multiple times on different things.

Unions are cheaper at Lowes too. I realize that Savko might have a little higher quality valves and unions but really how much different can some plastic be. They are all made to have specific tolerances I'm sure. I'm going w/ Lowes I think.

What do I use for strainers on the inside of the two 1.5" Bulkheads? I found a 4x4 (or so) plate that is for drainage on houses? I want something pretty large so it disperses the suction so I don't suck up fish. I don't think the squares are too big on that plate.

later
Lunchbucket

 

[wiszmaster]

I'd just take a piece of acrylic, or wood - place it on the other side of the wall where the hole is already, and re-set your hole saw bit - the wood will give you something to drill you guide hole - once you get a little bit cut into the actual tank wall - you can let go of the wood/acrylic as it won't be needed anymore - done this MANY of times - works well... just take your time, and don't angle the bit too much, otherwise you'll jump out.

 

[maxxII]

Eric,
use these...

http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/8566/cid/2098

Not inexpensive, but from what I hear from the big tank guys, they spread suction out pretty well and dont choke the pump out. I have one for my new set up, but havent really used it enough to give a credible review. I will not use the ones I have on my 58 anymore. They get covered in crap way to easily and get constricted.

These are the ones I have on the 58....avoid em if you can.
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/8573/cid/2020

Nick

 

[jnarowe]

The valves I just saw at Lowes are actually adjustable. The tension of how hard the valve turns is adjustable by removing the handle and using it as a tool on the inside of one of the union sides. Are yours like that??

What are you talking about? I have never heard or seen this before and would like to know more about that.

I realize that Savko might have a little higher quality valves and unions but really how much different can some plastic be.

Much cheaper. I have had multiple schedule 40 unions from HD break on very minor impacts. I still have about 30 of them in my system, but if I were to do it again, I would only use sched. 80. You can drop a schedule 80 union on a cement floor and it is unlikely to break, but the sched. 40 are very likely to break at the collar. On the sched. 80 unions, I can easily twist them on and off, but the sched. 40 often require using a rubber wrench. I see no reason for you not to save the money and use sched. 40, but I just like to help people understand that there is a difference. It's not just marketing BS like we often encounter!

Marco: I have done that too with good results. I have even used old holes drop-outs as a guide by putting them on the drill bit and positioning it inside the hole I want to enlarge. That's good enough to get started.

 

[jnarowe]

Yeah Nick is right about those strainers. The second ones really restrict flow a lot.

 

[Lunchbucket]

Nick - Those are the ones I was thinking of thanks! I've use the 2nd ones...THEY SUCK and not in a good way

jnarowe - I'll think about it. We'll see. Thank you for your experience and advice

Hmm. Maybe I will just cut my own holes. Wonder how moucy a 2 5/8" Hole saw is. They guy doing them w/ the router isn't charging very much and he can do it in about 30min probably w/ nice clean router cuts.

I think I'm gonna order the sched 80 bulkheads tomorrow if I can't get them locally.

Thanks
Lunchbucket

 

[wiszmaster]

I generally use the RIDGIT holesaws - they have worked well for me, through metal, wood, drywall, some concrete/stucco & of course acrylic.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...earchResults.jsp&MID=9876&N=2984+3966&pos=n24

 

[Lunchbucket]

Do they make a 2 5/8" hole saw. Didn't see one

Lunchbuket

 

[melev]

Sure do. I use BluMol. (Ignore the gray case in the back, that is a set from Harbor Freight Tools.)

My preference is the ones made by Blu-Mol. They do a good job, are easy to switch out, and don't overheat the acrylic. When it is time to tap out the part that was drilled out, the openings in these bits provide good access. These cost more. The arbor and one holesaw can run $20 to $25, but additional saws cost around $10 to $14 each. I have a bit for 1", 1.5" and 2" bulkheads.

The drill arbor has locking pins to keep the bit securely attached. The knurled area is twisted to raise the pins into position, as you can see in the following images.

\

 

[jnarowe]

I really like the Blu-Mol too for exactly those reasons. It is much easier to get a piece of acrylic out of them.

 

[petedoc]

Bluemol bits worked well for me too. I drilled my 270 acrylic tank this month and had no problems. The biggest challenge I had was drilling the holes on either side of my overflow boxes for returns. I had to drill the holes on one side and then use a 12" extesion to go through the box to drill out the other side. I have no plumbing on the back of the tank.

 

[tacocat]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9508134#post9508134 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wiszmaster
I'd just take a piece of acrylic, or wood - place it on the other side of the wall where the hole is already, and re-set your hole saw bit - the wood will give you something to drill you guide hole - once you get a little bit cut into the actual tank wall - you can let go of the wood/acrylic as it won't be needed anymore - done this MANY of times - works well... just take your time, and don't angle the bit too much, otherwise you'll jump out.

I've done this a bunch of times. Works great, and it's quick.

Hint: Order your Spaflex online. Try www.flexpvc.com.

Lowes and HD ALWAYS runs out of 1.5 spaflex and they don't carry 2". Moot point for me. All my plumbing is gray SCH 40.

 

[wiszmaster]

The Blu-Mol saws work very well too! I have two of their hole saws ... they don't work any worse, or better than the RIDGIT as far as i can tell ... HD just had the large kit at the time & i purchased that ...

 

[Lunchbucket]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll look for Blu-Mol. That a brand they carry at Lowes?

tacocat - Thanks for the link. I'll check that out IF I use a lot of spaflex. Might do 90-99% of it in ridgid pipe. We'll see. My local hardware store sells 3/4, 1, 1.5, and 2" spa flex and has almost full rolls. Also my Lowes just opened so thier supply of spaflex is pretty much full too

I'm ordering the bulkheads today. I think I'm gonna use Savko.com BUT I'm going to see if they will do a money order. I don't want to use a CC there just due to the CC problems they had quite a few months back

Lunchbucket

 

[jnarowe]

LB: Make real sure that the "spaflex" you are buying is actually PVC. There are non-PVC versions that look almost exactly like the true PVC. You can tell by the feel. Real PVC is much stiffer than the blends. And the non-PVC does not glue up well to PVC fittings. I know from experience. What I bought from SAVKO was true PVC, and what I got from Custom Aquatics was not. And the guys at Custom had no idea because the products had similar names.

What problems did SAVKO have with CC?