Dartolution
New member
Hey Garygonzales.
The lens are just slightly secured with some type of glue, they pop off very easily. Most can simply be placed right back on without the need of glue.
Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay)
- Thread starter Atomic081
- Start date
Hey Garygonzales.
The lens are just slightly secured with some type of glue, they pop off very easily. Most can simply be placed right back on without the need of glue.
Dartolution
New member
Thank all.
I am using (2) 39 watt ATI Actinic T5 supplements.
I was using the ATI Blue+ but recently changed to the actinic and am happy with the choice.
I am using (2) 39 watt ATI Actinic T5 supplements.
I was using the ATI Blue+ but recently changed to the actinic and am happy with the choice.
garygonzales
Member
thanks
garygonzales
Member
just keeping thread alive....lol...
Might as well; after I get some spare time I'll upload what my four 32" fixtures look like with their new 410nm and 420nm LEDs. Here's the basic layout I'm using now (after a bit of soldering):
I'm using these over a 300DD along with some Kessil A350Ws and A360Ws providing supplemental edge lighting and they are supporting acropora and a blue squamosa on the bottom with no issues. The Kessils (the W model at least) certainly couldn't do that on their own, and I switched out 250W halides for pretty much the same reason - couldn't quite punch that deep.
Cheers,
Ray
I'm using these over a 300DD along with some Kessil A350Ws and A360Ws providing supplemental edge lighting and they are supporting acropora and a blue squamosa on the bottom with no issues. The Kessils (the W model at least) certainly couldn't do that on their own, and I switched out 250W halides for pretty much the same reason - couldn't quite punch that deep.
Cheers,
Ray
Looking to get our 150 set up with some lights to support corrals. Probably fine with soft and LPS for now, and ok to move into more later if we decide we can not live without the SPS.
What size would I need for 72x18x32 inch tank? We would love the extra info/stats so controllable would be nice, but we don't want to spend a ton of $$.
Thanks!
What size would I need for 72x18x32 inch tank? We would love the extra info/stats so controllable would be nice, but we don't want to spend a ton of $$.
Thanks!
Best way to look at it would be to cover as much surface area as possible. In my instance, my 300 has three 36"X24" openings with the top being 72"X36". I'm using two 300W 32" panels side by side in the center opening and one 300W 32" and 165W (18" maybe?) On each end opening as I have corner overflows. This gives great coverage and more than enough PAR and PUR for my setup (even if I've changed out some LEDs).
Find the fixtures that would cover the openings on the top of your aquarium the best and cover it the most.
Find the fixtures that would cover the openings on the top of your aquarium the best and cover it the most.
garygonzales
Member
Might as well; after I get some spare time I'll upload what my four 32" fixtures look like with their new 410nm and 420nm LEDs. Here's the basic layout I'm using now (after a bit of soldering):
I'm using these over a 300DD along with some Kessil A350Ws and A360Ws providing supplemental edge lighting and they are supporting acropora and a blue squamosa on the bottom with no issues. The Kessils (the W model at least) certainly couldn't do that on their own, and I switched out 250W halides for pretty much the same reason - couldn't quite punch that deep.
Cheers,
Ray
did you take out any of the greens and red leds....?
@garygonzales - Taking a break from trying to plow the lane today...sigh. I think I'm half frozen so I need to thaw a bit and warm up in front of the reef with a mug of tea.
Nope. I left the stock number of greens and reds in place and pulled some of the Cool White and a couple Warm white ( I think they WW at least...I'd have to double check the layout). It brought it back a bit from that "too much of a shop light" look, and I think I managed the spectrum percentages pretty well for the PUR peaks. I'll probably do a little more tweaking for aesthetics, but the coral has all colored up very well and seems to be growing likewise - something that had stalled for me with 250W halides. The big thing is a happy squamosa on bottom on the substrate.
Keep in mind I replaced each 250W halide with about 460 usable watts (2 300W fixtures per halide replaced), so in essence I added an additional 600+ watts of light to the system, and this is still nothing compared to what is found on the reef (see some of Dana's research articles in Advanced Aquarist mag).
Cheers and stay warm...
Ray
Length X Width X Height for your 120?
marinelife
Active member
I have a 375 with DIY lights I am look to change to these. How many do you think I would need with SPS corals
The tank is 96x30x30 but has 3 19.5"x 25.5" openings on the top. Are the 300W models as long as they seem in the pictures
I am think the 165Watt ones would work best.
Thougths
The tank is 96x30x30 but has 3 19.5"x 25.5" openings on the top. Are the 300W models as long as they seem in the pictures
I am think the 165Watt ones would work best.
Thougths
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garygonzales
Member
i have the 300 watt and its about 31inches long
marinelife
Active member
Do they work well on timers?
garygonzales
Member
you have to mod it to a apex or something like that otherwise i have mine on a wall timer
marinelife
Active member
Ok thanks for the information, I would be using wall timers as well, still undecided on if the 165W would work better for me than the 300W since its so long
Or one timer and two power bars. I don't think the draw is very high so it shouldn't be an issue.
