MichaelW
New member
Interesting I had not known or even heard of this as a possible benefit. If that happens I will hopefully be even happier with adding the t5...... If they ever come.
Mike's 200g
- Thread starter MichaelW
- Start date
Interesting I had not known or even heard of this as a possible benefit. If that happens I will hopefully be even happier with adding the t5...... If they ever come.
Usernam Invalid
New member
Looking great
mhucasey
Acros & wieners, oh my!
The increase in overall photosynthesis strips the water of CO2 and it rises, I've seen many reports to this effect and have seen it in my own tanks.
MichaelW
New member
Thank you for that information. It makes compmete sense, just wasn't something I had thought of. I wonder if it would make my swing down at night bigger though
reefmutt
Active member
Some of my named corals
Pearlberry
Hawkins
Red dragon
More coming
Pink lemonade
Cali tort
Steve Elias stag
More to come
Ora pink stylo
Ora Borealis
Tri color valida
More to come
An anthias hanging out
Man that was a lot of work!!
Micheal, what a stunning update! Amazing. Your growth and colour are both incredible and your ability to both keep the acros looking so good under LEDs as well as take such good photos under led is like a miracle to me!
You know my feelings about LEDs..
You continue to prove my doubts wrong about LEDs.
Curious what intensity do you run your white LEDs at?
In my experience going back a good 6-7 years with aefws is that there is no fish that will eat the adults or eggs from the corals.. Not the springeris, not any wrasse..
BUT I have watched my peppermints eat both adults and eggs.. When corals get large, neither fish nor shrimp are really able to get to the interior of a colony to eat a lone flatworm but the shrimp are extreme my efficient at foraging for the eggs and if the aefws can't bring the eggs to term, the won't be able to proliferate.
When the shrimp are hungry and in good numbers, it is my personal opinion and experience that they can be very very effective at controlling aefw..
However, I can not add a carpet anemone to the tank or they will eat that as well..
Stunning update!
I am very impressed with your tank, Micheal!
MichaelW
New member
Thank you for the kind words. My pictures are getting better but still a long way to go but for working with what I have I don't think too bad.
You know I like the less. I know they may not be the absolute best for coloring acros but I know they can do well. The thing I like most is how my reef changes seamlessly through they day and can have a totally different look from dawn, through midday, through evening and even late night. The contrallability is amazing and can make you appreciate different parts of the reef under different light. I also love that its not hot under them and I Don't have bulbs to change. Having said that, as you know, I also am adding some t5. My radions are hung about 13 inches off water and I use the wide angle lenses, during the program max intensity is around 85% but in that the whites max I think is only around 30% or so. I am not entirely sure. I think right at my "whitest" time of day I would say I'm close to 14k. One thing I would say is many people say not to run the red leds because acros don't like it or whatever, but I actually have quite a lot of red in my program, especially early morning. It hasn't caused any problems for me so far.
Yeah I havnt seen any fish seem like they are picking anything off the acros. I do have I think 7 peppermint shrimp in there but honestly I think I have only ever seen 2 of them out (or maybe just the same one twice?) and never picking on anything.. Not to say that are not just havnt seen it. Maybe I should get a bunch more. How do you keep them hungry in a tank that being fed regularly for the fish?
Any other tips or tricks for keeping the worms in check without taking things out to dip? (that didn't work out too well last time) although I was able to glue over the few eggs I did find on one of the corals I took out so that was some worms that didn't get to chow down on my acros.
MichaelW
New member
Thanks Sahin. I know in the past you felt with AEFW. To rid them you removed everything and dipped from what I remember. That is not possible for me, do you have any tips or tricks you learnt that may help at least manage them?
MichaelW
New member
Long overdue update.
First let's start with a couple upgrades,
4 jebao rw8s have been replaced with 4 Neptune apex WAV pumps. I also am now using an Apex Dos (unfortunately my old jebao dosing pump still has to be used because the apex dos only has 2 heads.
T5 retrofit kits finally arrived! Running them only 3 hours a day right now but will work up 2 5 or 6. 2xblue plus 2x coral plus.
Livestock
Moved some acros around here and there to try make space and get some up off temporary islands
I added 3 moorish idols, kind of a spur of the moment thing that I am blaming my wife for. As I wasn't planning on them they did not go through my usual QT etc. the emperor gave them a hard time. All are eating mysis and pellets.
Overall the tank has been growing well and things look good in general. However, some pieces have been showing little bits of tissue loss. I was thinking it may have been from possibly 2 much trace elements. I use the AF balling system with trace elements included in them. It is supposed to be used in uptake according to alk and ca demand etc. however I just wonder with the amount I'm dosing (380ml per day)maybe it is 2 much trace elements. I decided I will mix just under the trace elements amount when I mix my next batch.
AEFW are still causing some issues. I notice a coral showing signs so I pull it out and dip. Today I took out a bunch of the easy removable corals just to dip them... Some really didn't like it and look really bad now (ones that were not looking bad before) the ones that really look aweful after dip are the smoother skin types like my red dragon, granulosa, Hawkins, and other similar. Others I dipped look fine. Wishing I hadn't dipped now though due to how some look. Hopefully they recover.
Does bring up a problem about what to do about worms. If I go the "pull all acros and weekly dip" route I can't see them surviving after seeing the effect of this one time dipping let alone weekly. I will not be using this coral dip again though.
FTS to follow
First let's start with a couple upgrades,
4 jebao rw8s have been replaced with 4 Neptune apex WAV pumps. I also am now using an Apex Dos (unfortunately my old jebao dosing pump still has to be used because the apex dos only has 2 heads.
T5 retrofit kits finally arrived! Running them only 3 hours a day right now but will work up 2 5 or 6. 2xblue plus 2x coral plus.
Livestock
Moved some acros around here and there to try make space and get some up off temporary islands
I added 3 moorish idols, kind of a spur of the moment thing that I am blaming my wife for. As I wasn't planning on them they did not go through my usual QT etc. the emperor gave them a hard time. All are eating mysis and pellets.
Overall the tank has been growing well and things look good in general. However, some pieces have been showing little bits of tissue loss. I was thinking it may have been from possibly 2 much trace elements. I use the AF balling system with trace elements included in them. It is supposed to be used in uptake according to alk and ca demand etc. however I just wonder with the amount I'm dosing (380ml per day)maybe it is 2 much trace elements. I decided I will mix just under the trace elements amount when I mix my next batch.
AEFW are still causing some issues. I notice a coral showing signs so I pull it out and dip. Today I took out a bunch of the easy removable corals just to dip them... Some really didn't like it and look really bad now (ones that were not looking bad before) the ones that really look aweful after dip are the smoother skin types like my red dragon, granulosa, Hawkins, and other similar. Others I dipped look fine. Wishing I hadn't dipped now though due to how some look. Hopefully they recover.
Does bring up a problem about what to do about worms. If I go the "pull all acros and weekly dip" route I can't see them surviving after seeing the effect of this one time dipping let alone weekly. I will not be using this coral dip again though.
FTS to follow
Moser
Active member
Stunning tank, Michael.
Smooth skinned corals don't do well with dipping- a quick shake in a dip at the most.
If you have a coral that is being attacked vigorously by aefw, you can use a baster with RO water. Baste the coral with ro. aefw fly off- but you have to get them with the first few bastes otherwise they cling on. Don't baste really hard as the coral flesh can come away.
The other thing that helps corals is if you run a little higher phosphate. In my tank, above 0.03. This gives the coral a little more flesh and they seem to be able to fight off aefw.
I had them for years and realise that they started disappearing when I ran higher phosphate levels!
IMO- dips will eventually kill your corals and although they clean the aefw- they will eventually come back.
Interested in the peppermint shrimp theory, I have too many wrasses for this to work, but I think Greg also mentioned that Peps work....
I think it is almost impossible to have a SPS tank without aefw- you would need tiny frags all dipped and scraped and grown out to be guaranteed free of them. If the corals are fit and healthy, you will never notice the aefw- but they are there.
Treat phos like alk- set it where you want it, but don't let it fluctuate. Corals are sensitive to it. If you have none, supplement with food/amino's!
Cheers
Mo
Smooth skinned corals don't do well with dipping- a quick shake in a dip at the most.
If you have a coral that is being attacked vigorously by aefw, you can use a baster with RO water. Baste the coral with ro. aefw fly off- but you have to get them with the first few bastes otherwise they cling on. Don't baste really hard as the coral flesh can come away.
The other thing that helps corals is if you run a little higher phosphate. In my tank, above 0.03. This gives the coral a little more flesh and they seem to be able to fight off aefw.
I had them for years and realise that they started disappearing when I ran higher phosphate levels!
IMO- dips will eventually kill your corals and although they clean the aefw- they will eventually come back.
Interested in the peppermint shrimp theory, I have too many wrasses for this to work, but I think Greg also mentioned that Peps work....
I think it is almost impossible to have a SPS tank without aefw- you would need tiny frags all dipped and scraped and grown out to be guaranteed free of them. If the corals are fit and healthy, you will never notice the aefw- but they are there.
Treat phos like alk- set it where you want it, but don't let it fluctuate. Corals are sensitive to it. If you have none, supplement with food/amino's!
Cheers
Mo
Last edited:
biggles
Premium Member
It blows me away every time i see the wonderful saturated colors you achieve with those LED's and bloody AEFW. I removed all the sand from the display just to catch the last wrasse so i can add peppermint shrimp shrimp for general pest maintenance.
I think Mo's advice is the way i would go mate as i reckon you'll kill them quicker with the dipping than learning to live with them.
Those moorish idols look super awesome, no way Dave will let me have one of those considering i killed the CBB he let me buy.........:facepalm:
Pretty sure i'm back on fish probation at my LFS........
I think Mo's advice is the way i would go mate as i reckon you'll kill them quicker with the dipping than learning to live with them.
Those moorish idols look super awesome, no way Dave will let me have one of those considering i killed the CBB he let me buy.........:facepalm:
Pretty sure i'm back on fish probation at my LFS........
plyle02
Active member
Mike,
Absolutely stunning FTS man, every time I see the tank it looks so well planned, the scape is lovely, the efflo is perfectly placed. And I am on board with Andrew, those morish idols are top notch! I am also with Moser on this one, the AEFW are best when controlled and not dipped. Having plenty of wrasses, blue legs hermits(pick at eggs), peppermint shrimp, if you can have them, and basting with a turkey baster will likely keep the numbers from ever getting out of control. I would also recommend Flatworm Stop from Zeovit as it helps the corals to create better sliming, which ultimately the worms do not like. Anyway, the tank looks amazing regardless. Thanks for the update!
Cheers!
Absolutely stunning FTS man, every time I see the tank it looks so well planned, the scape is lovely, the efflo is perfectly placed. And I am on board with Andrew, those morish idols are top notch! I am also with Moser on this one, the AEFW are best when controlled and not dipped. Having plenty of wrasses, blue legs hermits(pick at eggs), peppermint shrimp, if you can have them, and basting with a turkey baster will likely keep the numbers from ever getting out of control. I would also recommend Flatworm Stop from Zeovit as it helps the corals to create better sliming, which ultimately the worms do not like. Anyway, the tank looks amazing regardless. Thanks for the update!
Cheers!
MichaelW
New member
Thanks guys. Yes, it's really only my dragons and other smooth skins that really look bad from the dip. Lesson learned about using that dip with them. I just really hope I don't loose the red dragon, it has grown really big and into an awesome colony.
Mo, my po4 runs around the 0.024 color on the also high res test kit (wouldn't say exact match but around that) it's very stable and doesn't change. I run the AF system so the corals get lots of food and aminos etc. I use the turkey baster every now and then but very rarely see anything come off (but they might be just are small and hard to see) never tried with rodi though just tank water. Would a straight shot of to-do not stress the coral? Should it be heated to tank temp first? Anyway Mo, thanks for stopping by, your tank is one of the tanks I show other people when I'm trying to explain what an aquarium is capable of looking like!
I heard platform stop doesn't do anything for AEFW, but had seen others in here using it for aefw control 2. Maybe I will get some to give it a try. No negative side effects on corals right?
I have a love hate relationship with sand. Love it's look and my wrasses need it... But I can't keep it in place and I get bare patches with my flow and it gets all over my corals .
Mo, my po4 runs around the 0.024 color on the also high res test kit (wouldn't say exact match but around that) it's very stable and doesn't change. I run the AF system so the corals get lots of food and aminos etc. I use the turkey baster every now and then but very rarely see anything come off (but they might be just are small and hard to see) never tried with rodi though just tank water. Would a straight shot of to-do not stress the coral? Should it be heated to tank temp first? Anyway Mo, thanks for stopping by, your tank is one of the tanks I show other people when I'm trying to explain what an aquarium is capable of looking like!
I heard platform stop doesn't do anything for AEFW, but had seen others in here using it for aefw control 2. Maybe I will get some to give it a try. No negative side effects on corals right?
I have a love hate relationship with sand. Love it's look and my wrasses need it... But I can't keep it in place and I get bare patches with my flow and it gets all over my corals .
mhucasey
Acros & wieners, oh my!
P
P
Other than a little sliming, no ill effects on any coral I've dipped with just the potassium.
P
Mike, I have been having good success with dipping AEFW infested pieces in tank water with raised potassium levels. I use Potassion to raise the level to 1500 or so based on calculations and have actually gone even higher. It doesn't just stun the worms, it kills them- After a few seconds they are dead and can be blown off. The nice thing is that the potassium doesn't have to be carefully rinsed away like other dips.
Other than a little sliming, no ill effects on any coral I've dipped with just the potassium.
MichaelW
New member
Interesting. Not heard of this.usually I use Bayer to dip and not had any problems. But because it's milky I can't see if any worms come off, so I tried something that was clear, was fine except on the smooth skins.
Now the other issue would be many of my acros just can not be removed anyway. Someone needs to come up with an in tank treatment for these little buggars
Now the other issue would be many of my acros just can not be removed anyway. Someone needs to come up with an in tank treatment for these little buggars
mhucasey
Acros & wieners, oh my!
I hate the Bayer because I can't see what's happening. The Bayer needs much lower concentrations with smooth skin acros to ensure it doesn't cause RTN. You can mix a small amount of Bayer or other dips in with the high Potassium and it will help pry the worms free even faster, but just the Potassium is needed.
Some people have experimented with full tank treatment- you have to remove as much other life as possible first- with mixed success. AEFW definitely nuked, but some damage to the system from die off of other organisms like pods, starfish, sand bed life etc.
reefmutt
Active member
Mike, your tank is looking fantastic. Great balance and those moorish idols look amazing. And the colors look pretty darn fine from here!
I have found that Bayer is the gentlest on acros and even smooth skins.
Polyp Lab has a potassium based dip that is also very effective and gentle in acros.
I have used elevated potassium as a dip ever since hearing about a guy on a Chinese forum that did an in tank treatment. Not sure how it came out...
But ever since I got my hands on Bayer, I never went back. If you pour the dipping water out slowly, you can usually see what's left at the bottom..
Like Matt said, elevated potassium will kill everything including aefw, so I'd never try it in a the tank.
I have found that Bayer is the gentlest on acros and even smooth skins.
Polyp Lab has a potassium based dip that is also very effective and gentle in acros.
I have used elevated potassium as a dip ever since hearing about a guy on a Chinese forum that did an in tank treatment. Not sure how it came out...
But ever since I got my hands on Bayer, I never went back. If you pour the dipping water out slowly, you can usually see what's left at the bottom..
Like Matt said, elevated potassium will kill everything including aefw, so I'd never try it in a the tank.
