Do you have the name of your Efflo? It look very nice.
Hi Brian, I'm not sure of the name, all that I know is that it is maricultured, and I think the LFS said the shipment was from Bali.
I love your macro shots of the Efflo. You really can take good pictures. I have tried very hard but still not very good despite that I do have a nice Nikon D7000 camera and a 85mm macro lens. People say it is not the machine but the person using it. Looks like I have to put more effort in it.
Could you tell me what settings did you use for those shots?
Bernie
Bernie, least I could do given the help you have provided me! I did a second dose of interceptor yesterday, and it seemed to go well.
Given that set-up, you should get some good results with practice. I usually take many more pictures than I keep though - so the more pictures you take, the better chance you'll get at having one you're really happy with. For these ones, my general settings were custom white balance set to 10,000k (the max K amount in camera WB adjustment I can set). I always shoot in manual and adjust Av, Tv, and ISO for the shot. For macros, try and stick with a low ISO (100 to 400) - since you are going to use a tripod you can get away with this and leave your shutter open longer to get your light metered correctly - this will reduce noise in your image. Use your timer - I use 2 seconds - this makes sure your camera isn't shaking when the shutter fires, preventing blurring. For macros, the lower your Aperture # (i.e. the more "wide open" you shoot), the tougher it is going to be for focus as you will be working in a very shallow depth of field (a very small portion of the image will be in focus). Try working with a bit higher Av initially (11 to 16) and then work down from there - you'll have a bit more room to play with to get a sharp, in focus shot.
So, my settings in order of shots above were (ISO, Av, Tv):
1250, 7.1, 1/250th second (this one was handheld, so to decrease blur due to hand holding, I upped the shutter speed which required me to up the ISO to have enough light for a properly exposed shot).
320, 5.6, 1/80
320, 11, 1/25
320, 5.6, 1/80
400, 20, 1/10
1250, 7.1, 1/250 (also handheld)
The next step is when you get your shots onto your computer. I shoot in RAW which allows more post processing freedom to get the shot to look realistic (i.e. truly represent what your eye is seeing). By shooting raw, you have more control to set the white balance in post, as with my shots, it is far from perfect right out of the camera. You should have gotten a software program with your camera that allows you to do this - you can select presets (cloudy, as shot, tungsten, etc.) and you should have a custom option with an eye dropper - this allows you to pick a pixel in your shot that is roughly 18% grey to properly balance your shot. With some trial and error - picking a pixel, undoing, and then doing it again - you'll eventually hit one that is true to life. Once you do that, save that setting and copy to your other pics, saves a lot of work.
If you want to take things to the next level, you can get editing software that give you more editing freedom. I use Lightroom 3, which cost about 90 dollars for an academic version (I'm a part time student). This program, when shooting raw, allows you to adjust the actual WB of the picture with a K slider - so I take my shot at 10,000k in camera, but I know that my T5 and LED combo is actually somewhere in between 14k and 22k - so I move the slider up in between that range to give me the best WB possible. This is worth its weight in gold in my opinion.
The main thing is to practice and use your software in post and play around until you become familiar with what works and what doesn't. There are some good photography forums on the net as well, similar to this one, that you can learn a lot from! Let me know if you have any more questions, and be sure to PM me the link to any shots you take, I'd love to see them. :beer: