<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7564367#post7564367 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by navyav8tr
Thanks guys. I think I am going to have to get a chiller. I am looking at an average of 85 degrees. I am still letting the tank run with freshwater right now but it is damn hot. I have fans everywhere and it just isn't cracking it. I kind of figured this might happen with 250W + 110W actinic supp.
I ordered a Optima Advanced from Purely H20 and is suppose to be here tomorrow. We'll see though.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7570661#post7570661 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by navyav8tr
3. My electrical panel is pretty much two seperate things. I have an American DJ power strip, which I got from Guitar Center $35, and made a platform for it to sit on. You can also get one off EBAY. Now I am plugging anything that doesn't need a timer or some type of controlling like my OM squirt, interior cabinet lighting, skimmer pump, etc. Here I can just turn it on via the red orange switches.
My RK2 power strip is mounted on the side of the tank and the controller cable just runs over top of the other power strip and the controller is mounted in it's little holder I built. The setup is not fancy but I didn't want cables hanging all over the place so what I did to fix that was I bought a cord strip from Home Depot for $5. It is in the electrical section. It is just a plastic strip that you mount and it has a face side that slides off. There are all these side slots that you can run cables in and out as well as stow them in there. When you get them in there you slide the cover back on. Now I also bought some flexible tubing from HD which you can slip all you cables that are running from other areas to the cord strip into. Cleaner look in my opinion and keeps everything manageable. I did this for the cords running from the canopy as well as the return and skimmer pump coming from the sump.
As they say a picture is worth a thousand words so I will get a pic up today of the setup.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7317659#post7317659 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by navyav8tr
Here are a few more shots of the inside of the tank where the overflow is. The overflow box is acrylic and was siliconed to the glass and seems to be holding very well. I used a "liberal amount" of silicone and masked the area 1/4" around the box. After curing for two days I went back and trimmed the tape off with a utility knife. This gave a real clean look on the glass.
The two black return pipes running down each side are return lines from the sump. My plan is to create flow at the bottom of the tank to keep any "funk" buildup. BTW I am going barebottom on this one.
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In the image above, what is the bulkhead in the lower left for? Is that the intake for the closed loop? How do you have your drain in your overflow set up? Are you using a Durso standpipe or just the bulkhead? What size bulkheads are you using? Any noise issues with the water draining? Can you supply more details of the inside of your overflow? Is the back of the tank painted?
billzie This is very close to the system I've been dreaming about when I return to the hobby maybe later this year. Can you please post an updated/completed list of the equipment with full spellings of the products rather than abbreviations?
Nothing fancy. Put flat against each other, glued them and nail gunned them.How to you have your stand/canopy corners joined?
I don't think so but I am looking for alot of water movement for SPS. Now the return lines for the closed loop come into the top of the euro bracing and with the oceans motions squirt I have three outlets going at one time vice one single return line which would be a firehose in this size tank. Hope this helps.Is the T3 too much pump for a closed loop in a tank this size?