OK! Enough chat...Starting a 1000g+ Reef
- Thread starter jnarowe
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jnarowe
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No. Look back on page 10 about the middle or so. You'll see that I routed out plain slots and then glued the bracket piece to the slot. Simple, but only can be done as a retro-fit or for new construction. My tank originally had an internal corner overflow which was entirely inadequate for a reef. I ripped it out and installed my own coast-to-coast overflow.
jnarowe
New member
No work done lately. I have been sick for about a week.
Dale, one thing to consider about Spazz's NW (I get it now) skimmer is that nothing can survive going through it
What I mean is that the typical counter-current air stone skimmer would allow any small animal to pass through unscathed where you might find it in the sump.
His NW would vaporize anything that got inside. I am not saying that is a deal breaker, but just something to note. The question in my mind now is can it be done with a less powerful pump and lower wattage, and can venturi design be incorporated? I keep thinking about the tiny venturis I have in my FW Planted tank that disburse CO2.
Oh yeah, and how do we get him to give up the NW design or make us one?
Dale, one thing to consider about Spazz's NW (I get it now) skimmer is that nothing can survive going through it
What I mean is that the typical counter-current air stone skimmer would allow any small animal to pass through unscathed where you might find it in the sump.
His NW would vaporize anything that got inside. I am not saying that is a deal breaker, but just something to note. The question in my mind now is can it be done with a less powerful pump and lower wattage, and can venturi design be incorporated? I keep thinking about the tiny venturis I have in my FW Planted tank that disburse CO2.
Oh yeah, and how do we get him to give up the NW design or make us one?
tinygiants
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6616651#post6616651 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
No work done lately. I have been sick for about a week.
Dale, one thing to consider about Spazz's NW (I get it now) skimmer is that nothing can survive going through it
What I mean is that the typical counter-current air stone skimmer would allow any small animal to pass through unscathed where you might find it in the sump.
His NW would vaporize anything that got inside. I am not saying that is a deal breaker, but just something to note. The question in my mind now is can it be done with a less powerful pump and lower wattage, and can venturi design be incorporated? I keep thinking about the tiny venturis I have in my FW Planted tank that disburse CO2.
Oh yeah, and how do we get him to give up the NW design or make us one?
The NW vaporizing anything is really a moot point. A becket would also kill any life form of size. The best thing is to strain the inlet line to prevent life from making it to the skimmer body where the needles of death take the suction from.
You would have to ask him. I know that I am not the only person asking him about impellers. Maybe he will produce them for the masses soon enough.
Dale
jnarowe
New member
Actually I meant in comparison to my planned counter-current air stone skimmer. Obviously I would try to limit anything getting into the skimmer but I was just thinking about maybe floating eggs or maybe pods.
I have emailed back and forth with Spazz and he's not selling them at this point. I hope to convince him to give it a go, but it sounds like he is in talks with Sequence. Maybe you and I could build them together.
I am sure I could get the use of a lathe and maybe you could too.
I have emailed back and forth with Spazz and he's not selling them at this point. I hope to convince him to give it a go, but it sounds like he is in talks with Sequence. Maybe you and I could build them together.
I am sure I could get the use of a lathe and maybe you could too.
jnarowe
New member
No doubt Marc!
BTW, I loved those shots you posted on the Vortech.
And...I fired up one of the 1000W MH 20K lamps today, and I am a bit concerned about getting a sunburn while viewing the tank. Seriously I never really considered how much light would be thrown into the viewing room from inside the tank. It was always an issue of doing it in a tank room so I wouldn't get glare spillage.
The quality of light looks to be excellent, but I won't really know until I've got the tank up and running. First impressions are very good though and with the lumenarc reflector about 8" of the "surface" I am getting a decent spread. I still think I will have to move them about 1-1/2 to 2' with a mover to get coverage front to back. The color is really nice.
BTW, I loved those shots you posted on the Vortech.
And...I fired up one of the 1000W MH 20K lamps today, and I am a bit concerned about getting a sunburn while viewing the tank.
Seriously I never really considered how much light would be thrown into the viewing room from inside the tank. It was always an issue of doing it in a tank room so I wouldn't get glare spillage.The quality of light looks to be excellent, but I won't really know until I've got the tank up and running. First impressions are very good though and with the lumenarc reflector about 8" of the "surface" I am getting a decent spread. I still think I will have to move them about 1-1/2 to 2' with a mover to get coverage front to back. The color is really nice.
melev
Well-known member
A light mover would be ideal for your needs, and save on money versus running more bulbs in a static position. If you'll read LilBlueGT's thread, he's been using a light mover for the past 9 to 12 months.
You could make a nice 3-sided frame out of wood and crown molding to shield the room from the cast off light, and yet removable for tank access.
You could make a nice 3-sided frame out of wood and crown molding to shield the room from the cast off light, and yet removable for tank access.
jnarowe
New member
Got a lighting question: It's difficult for me to explain, but I have been mostly influenced by oregonreef's aquascape and would like a central valley but with it starting in the left third and ending in the back of the right third to give more distance to the valley and hide the "entrance/exit" around a curve.
I will use a mirror at the back near the visible end of the curve to create an infinite looking display. The plan is to have a lumenarc on each of the left and right thirds on motorized rails, and a stationary dish reflector for the middle. My reasoning behind this was to provide a greater spread of light in the center to avoid any shadow lines and draw the fish into an area of lower intensity light. I would place high light needing corals on the sides where they would get coverage from both the dish and the lumenarcs, and lower light corals nearer to the center.
The problem is that the dish is way too large and interferes with the movement of the lumenarcs. So what to do? I have figured on a couple of methods to get feedback on.
1. I could cut the dish fixture to allow the lumenarcs to move freely.
2. I could move the dish to one end and reset my aquascaping accordingly.
3. I could skip the dish and get another lumenarc. (extra cost)
So, any feedback/ideas?
I will use a mirror at the back near the visible end of the curve to create an infinite looking display. The plan is to have a lumenarc on each of the left and right thirds on motorized rails, and a stationary dish reflector for the middle. My reasoning behind this was to provide a greater spread of light in the center to avoid any shadow lines and draw the fish into an area of lower intensity light. I would place high light needing corals on the sides where they would get coverage from both the dish and the lumenarcs, and lower light corals nearer to the center.
The problem is that the dish is way too large and interferes with the movement of the lumenarcs. So what to do? I have figured on a couple of methods to get feedback on.
1. I could cut the dish fixture to allow the lumenarcs to move freely.
2. I could move the dish to one end and reset my aquascaping accordingly.
3. I could skip the dish and get another lumenarc. (extra cost)
So, any feedback/ideas?
jnarowe
New member
Won't work but I know what you mean. I thought about using one of the Sunlight ones that holds three lamps, but it would really have to be oval to cover the tank properly and I am concerned about that much movement as far as viewing goes.
I am OK with a small amount of movement but I don't want shadows cast that are moving and really visible. There's just not enough room with 5' depth without having the lamps rotate over the overflows.
I am OK with a small amount of movement but I don't want shadows cast that are moving and really visible. There's just not enough room with 5' depth without having the lamps rotate over the overflows.
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